Rockfax Description
Steady climbing with a bit of a run-out. It remains a good lead although it is often top-roped, hence the polish. Pull through the bulge just left of The Directissima past a small wire to a thread. Continue past a peg, then join The Directissima below the final groove. Follow the groove to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Berzins, A.Cowell 1982

Ticklists

Ultimate E5 ticklist

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UserDateNotes
Enty 22 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Why is "The Big C" not mentioned. This is a quality route based around FV. Solid E4 but only E4. Misses out the steep start to FV and wanders around between gear. Excellent route. Enty
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Why is "The Big C" not mentioned. This is a quality route based around FV. Solid E4 but only E4. Misses out the steep start to FV and wanders around between gear. Excellent route. Enty
Paul B 27 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: great route to lead unfortunately not onsight but still great..
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: great route to lead unfortunately not onsight but still great..
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
andy jennings 18 Aug TR O/S
rickeden 10 Aug TR dog Great route, it would be a a scary lead. 7 bolts and it would be a 3 star sport route!!
with Ian Andrew Dunn
Great route, it would be a a scary lead. 7 bolts and it would be a 3 star sport route!!
with Ian Andrew Dunn
Michael Bortoluzzi 9 Aug TR O/S
dannyboy83 17 Jul TR O/S
Rob Knowles 11 Jun TR O/S Thought I'd switch up the warmup
Thought I'd switch up the warmup
Nige M 28 May TR rpt
with Kim M
with Kim M
Lloyders 21 May TR β
Duncan Campbell 28 Apr TR β Pretty polished and actually quite tricky! Did it at the end of the day to get the draws out of the belay.
Pretty polished and actually quite tricky! Did it at the end of the day to get the draws out of the belay.
robbo 5 Jul, 2018 TR β
with Tom Mills
with Tom Mills
Hidden 30 Jun, 2018 TR
Ed Booth 25 Jun, 2018 TR rpt
Hidden 25 Jun, 2018 TR
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 20 Jun, 2018 TR O/S
with Stu Ferguson
with Stu Ferguson
Hidden 17 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt
Hidden 30 May, 2018 TR rpt
Hidden 19 May, 2018 TR rpt
Hidden 6 May, 2018 TR O/S
Hidden 25 Apr, 2018 TR rpt
lloydrees91 ??, 2018 -
Climber53 ??, 2018 -
Kimmi gayle 11 Aug, 2017 TR O/S
Adam Booth 18 Jul, 2017 TR O/S
Nige M 4 Jul, 2017 Lead RP I used 11 wires in addition to the one thread and the one peg. Works best with two ropes, though can be made reasonably safe with one.
with Kim M
I used 11 wires in addition to the one thread and the one peg. Works best with two ropes, though can be made reasonably safe with one.
with Kim M
samrad 22 Jun, 2017 TR A few times at the end of the day. Can't help but think this would be nice bolted...
with Dominique
A few times at the end of the day. Can't help but think this would be nice bolted...
with Dominique
papashango 27 May, 2017 TR rpt
with Lionel, Gareth
with Lionel, Gareth
Flavio 20 May, 2017 TR Went scouting for gear and couldn't find any before the thread miles above serious ground fall. Decided not to lead especially after recent events.
Went scouting for gear and couldn't find any before the thread miles above serious ground fall. Decided not to lead especially after recent events.
Dogwood 17 Apr, 2017 TR dog
nickmoulden 2 Oct, 2016 Lead rpt
Hidden 18 Sep, 2016 TR dog
papashango 13 Sep, 2016 TR β
with Gareth
with Gareth
JamesTurnbull97 28 Jun, 2016 Lead β Lowered down to check the treads and any gear. Climbed onsight, quite bold between the treads and when the 1 wire I placed promptly fell out when I climbed past it
Lowered down to check the treads and any gear. Climbed onsight, quite bold between the treads and when the 1 wire I placed promptly fell out when I climbed past it
nickmoulden ?Jun, 2016 Lead rpt
with zoe bidula
with zoe bidula
Moondance 30 May, 2016 TR RP
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 9 May, 2016 TR
with Ben Morton
with Ben Morton
nickmoulden 20 Apr, 2016 Lead rpt
with zoe bidula
with zoe bidula
Luke Dawson 21 Aug, 2015 TR O/S
with Flo Tilley
with Flo Tilley
Anna M 6 Aug, 2015 2nd RP
with Nige M
with Nige M
Hidden ?Aug, 2015 -
Hidden 5 Jul, 2015 TR
RFWilkie 5 Jul, 2015 TR dog Shame this isn't bolted really! Would be a 3 star 7a/+. A few goes very nearly clean but got pumped at top.
Shame this isn't bolted really! Would be a 3 star 7a/+. A few goes very nearly clean but got pumped at top.
Hidden 24 May, 2015 TR rpt
Adam Lincoln 4 May, 2015 -
with antham
with antham
Ben Grounsell ??, 2015 TR RP
Dave Turnbull, BMC 5 Aug, 2014 TR
Hidden 5 Aug, 2014 Lead
Hidden 3 Aug, 2014 TR dnf
Dave Turnbull, BMC 25 Jul, 2014 TR
with Toby Dunne
with Toby Dunne
markalmack 20 Jul, 2014 TR β Was thinking about leading this. Glad i didn't!
with TL
Was thinking about leading this. Glad i didn't!
with TL
Kim M ?Jul, 2014 2nd RP
with Nige M
with Nige M
Hidden 21 Jun, 2014 TR
Shortarse.Crowley 3 May, 2014 TR O/S A little pumpy, great for a warm up on TR
with Justin Critchlow
A little pumpy, great for a warm up on TR
with Justin Critchlow
Hidden 23 Mar, 2014 Lead
Hidden 19 Mar, 2014 TR
Hidden 18 Mar, 2014 TR
Hidden 25 Jul, 2013 Lead
Ally Smith 9 Jul, 2013 TR rpt 3 laps as stamina training at end of evening
with jkarran
3 laps as stamina training at end of evening
with jkarran
emily_allen 22 Jun, 2013 TR β
Ally Smith 12 May, 2013 TR
Hidden 9 May, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 -
Hidden 12 Aug, 2012 TR
Ed Booth 5 Aug, 2012 TR rpt
akhughes ?Aug, 2012 Lead rpt
Hidden 29 Jul, 2012 TR RP
thebigfriendlymoose 1 Jun, 2012 TR RP
with JohnM
with JohnM
DDDD 27 May, 2012 TR O/S
with Seb Grieve
with Seb Grieve
Hidden 26 May, 2012 TR dog
Ally Smith 2 Jul, 2011 TR
Hidden 1 Jul, 2011 TR rpt
Hidden 12 Jun, 2011 TR dog
Hidden 12 Jun, 2011 TR rpt
Hidden 11 Jun, 2011 TR rpt
Hidden 14 May, 2011 TR dog
Hidden 8 May, 2011 TR dog
Hidden 12 Apr, 2011 -
Hidden 12 Apr, 2011 -
nickmoulden 7 Apr, 2011 Lead rpt
with Dalvinda Dunning
with Dalvinda Dunning
Hidden 27 Mar, 2011 TR dog
nickmoulden 23 Mar, 2011 TR rpt
with Steve Dunning
with Steve Dunning
nickmoulden 2 Aug, 2010 TR rpt
Hidden 17 Jul, 2010 TR rpt
Brown 7 Jun, 2010 TR RP
with Jon B
with Jon B
nickmoulden 26 May, 2010 TR
with Tom Newman
with Tom Newman
Ed Booth 1 May, 2010 TR O/S Pumpy!
with Gus
Pumpy!
with Gus
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
Adam Lincoln ??, 2010 Lead
Hidden 26 Aug, 2009 TR dog
Ally Smith 25 Aug, 2009 TR O/S
Bennykr 17 Aug, 2009 TR O/S did cleanly the toproped it like 4-5 times to get a mega pump, awsome route, would be a scary lead though
with Jonny
did cleanly the toproped it like 4-5 times to get a mega pump, awsome route, would be a scary lead though
with Jonny
will9911 16 Aug, 2009 TR O/S
Hidden 12 Aug, 2009 Lead
Hidden 11 Aug, 2009 TR RP
Hidden 20 Jul, 2009 -
steve_biczyk 4 Jul, 2009 TR rpt About 7a...
with Emma, Keith & Dave
About 7a...
with Emma, Keith & Dave
accynez 10 Jun, 2009 -
Hidden 31 May, 2009 TR RP
Toby Dunn 2 May, 2009 Lead
with Jon Fulwood
with Jon Fulwood
Boy ?May, 2009 -
with Toby Dunn
with Toby Dunn
datoon 4 Apr, 2009 TR
with MJ
with MJ
Seymore Butt ??, 2009 TR
Hidden 2 Aug, 2008 -
Ram MkiV 1 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
with al & andy
with al & andy
Hidden 29 Jul, 2008 -
Hidden 24 Jul, 2008 Lead RP
morganator 18 Jul, 2008 Lead RP
with Graham Cooper
with Graham Cooper
loonyclimber 5 Jul, 2008 TR RP Clean second go after a couple of laps on Directissima to warm up. Would make a great 7a+ sport...
Clean second go after a couple of laps on Directissima to warm up. Would make a great 7a+ sport...
Hidden 5 Jul, 2008 TR RP
Hidden 17 Jun, 2008 -
Hidden 10 Jun, 2008 TR
Hidden 5 Jun, 2008 Lead
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Hidden 16 Sep, 2007 TR
ali_robb ?Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
Jarin 20 Jun, 2007 TR rpt
with John
with John
The Jazz Butcher ??, 2007 -
mattnuttall 12 May, 2006 TR rpt
with Bartosz 'Bart' Zurawski
with Bartosz 'Bart' Zurawski
mattnuttall 25 Aug, 2005 Lead rpt
with Alan Holden
with Alan Holden
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 Lead RP
Hidden ??, 2005 Lead
innes ??, 1999 TR
Mike Owen 6 Jul, 1997 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike_d78 1 Jun, 1997 Lead O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
Mike Owen 9 Jun, 1996 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 7 Jun, 1996 Lead rpt
with Tim Hatch
with Tim Hatch
Roget 16 May, 1996 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
Si Witcher ??, 1996 Lead O/S
Neil McA 15 Oct, 1995 TR O/S
with Sue McAdie
with Sue McAdie
Alastair R ?Oct, 1995 Lead RP
whispering nic ?Aug, 1995 Lead
Cowflinger ?Jul, 1995 Lead RP
with sharpie
with sharpie
robyn1 ??, 1995 -
crossleysm ??, 1994 TR
mattnuttall 6 Jul, 1993 Lead O/S
with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
Steve Crowe 26 Jun, 1993 Lead O/S Proper onsight. When to crag really early to try it before the crowds arrived. All the insitu gear can be backed up with small wires.
with karin
Proper onsight. When to crag really early to try it before the crowds arrived. All the insitu gear can be backed up with small wires.
with karin
Dave Musgrove 28 Mar, 1993 TR dog
with Kim Greenald, Dave Musgrove Jnr
with Kim Greenald, Dave Musgrove Jnr
Dave Musgrove ??, 1993 2nd
Mike Owen 22 Jun, 1991 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 24 Jun, 1990 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Jun, 1990 Lead
ajtay ?May, 1990 -
with Various
with Various
Dave Musgrove 27 Apr, 1990 TR β
with Kim Greenald
with Kim Greenald
mark mcgowan01 ??, 1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1990 Lead
andybirtwistle 12 Sep, 1987 2nd
with Ian Kyle, Bob Smith
with Ian Kyle, Bob Smith
Hidden ?Jun, 1987 -
Mike Owen 17 Oct, 1985 Lead O/S
with Joe Picalli
with Joe Picalli
Hidden 18 Jun, 1983 2nd
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 18
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Toproped
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Repeated
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set