Rockfax Description
Steady climbing with a bit of a run-out. It remains a good lead although it is often top-roped, hence the polish. Pull through the bulge just left of The Directissima past a small wire to a thread. Continue past a peg, then join The Directissima below the final groove. Follow the groove to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Berzins, A.Cowell 1982

Ticklists: Ultimate E5 ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
Adam Booth 18/Jul TR O/S
samrad 22/Jun TR

A few times at the end of the day. Can't help but think this would be nice bolted...

with Dominique
Hidden 27/May TR rpt
FlavioL1989 20/May TR

Went scouting for gear and couldn't find any before the thread miles above serious ground fall. Decided not to lead especially after recent events.

Dogwood 17/Apr TR dog
nickmoulden 02/Oct/16 Lead rpt
Steven1993 18/Sep/16 TR dog

Top roped warming up. Traversed in from Directissima to skip the roof really nice moves.

with Ben
Hidden 13/Sep/16 TR β
JamesTurnbull97 28/Jun/16 Lead β

Lowered down to check the treads and any gear. Climbed onsight, quite bold between the treads and when the 1 wire I placed promptly fell out when I climbed past it

nickmoulden ?/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with zoe bidula
Moondance 30/May/16 TR RP
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 09/May/16 TR
with Ben Morton
nickmoulden 20/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with zoe bidula
Luke Dawson 21/Aug/15 TR O/S
with Flo Tilley
Anna M 06/Aug/15 2nd RP
with Nige
Hidden ?/Aug/15 -
Hidden 05/Jul/15 TR
RFWilkie 05/Jul/15 TR dog

Shame this isn't bolted really! Would be a 3 star 7a/+. A few goes very nearly clean but got pumped at top.

Hidden 24/May/15 TR rpt
Adam Lincoln 04/May/15 -
Ben Grounsell ??/2015 TR RP
Dave Turnbull, BMC 05/Aug/14 TR
Hidden 05/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 03/Aug/14 TR dnf
Dave Turnbull, BMC 25/Jul/14 TR
with Toby Dunne
markalmack 20/Jul/14 TR β

Was thinking about leading this. Glad i didn't!

with TL
Kim M ?/Jul/14 2nd RP
with Nige
Hidden 21/Jun/14 TR
Shortarse.Crowley 03/May/14 TR O/S

A little pumpy, great for a warm up on TR

with Justin Critchlow
Hidden 23/Mar/14 Lead
Hidden 19/Mar/14 TR
Hidden 18/Mar/14 TR
Hidden 25/Jul/13 Lead
Ally Smith 09/Jul/13 TR rpt

3 laps as stamina training at end of evening

with jkarran
emily_allen 22/Jun/13 TR β
Ally Smith 12/May/13 TR
Hidden 09/May/13 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Wood for Trees 12/Aug/12 TR

I hope this is considered hard E5, I was mega done by the top. Good training

with Shrew
Ed Booth 05/Aug/12 TR rpt
akhughes ?/Aug/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Jul/12 TR RP
thebigfriendlymoose 01/Jun/12 TR RP
with JohnM
DDDD 27/May/12 TR O/S
with Seb Grieve
Hidden 26/May/12 TR dog
Ally Smith 02/Jul/11 TR
Hidden 01/Jul/11 TR rpt
Hidden 12/Jun/11 TR dog
Hidden 12/Jun/11 TR rpt
Hidden 11/Jun/11 TR rpt
Hidden 14/May/11 TR dog
Hidden 08/May/11 TR dog
Hidden 12/Apr/11 -
Hidden 12/Apr/11 -
nickmoulden 07/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Dalvinda Dunning
Hidden 27/Mar/11 TR dog
nickmoulden 23/Mar/11 TR rpt
with Steve Dunning
nickmoulden 02/Aug/10 TR rpt
Hidden 17/Jul/10 TR rpt
Brown 07/Jun/10 TR RP
with Jon B
nickmoulden 26/May/10 TR
with Tom Newman
Ed Booth 01/May/10 TR O/S

Pumpy!

Adam Lincoln ??/2010 Lead
dunnyg 26/Aug/09 TR dog

Nice route, scary lead though. Fell twice?

with ben
Ally Smith 25/Aug/09 TR O/S
Bennykr 17/Aug/09 TR O/S

did cleanly the toproped it like 4-5 times to get a mega pump, awsome route, would be a scary lead though

with Jonny
will9911 16/Aug/09 TR O/S
with will
Hidden 12/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden 11/Aug/09 TR RP
Hidden 20/Jul/09 -
steve_biczyk 04/Jul/09 TR rpt

About 7a...

with Emma, Keith & Dave
Hidden 31/May/09 TR RP
Toby Dunn 02/May/09 Lead
with Jon Fulwood
Boy ?/May/09 -
with Toby Dunn
datoon 04/Apr/09 TR
with MJ
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
Hidden 02/Aug/08 -
Ram MkiV 01/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with al & andy
Hidden 29/Jul/08 -
Hidden 24/Jul/08 Lead RP
morganator 18/Jul/08 Lead RP
with Graham Cooper
loonyclimber 05/Jul/08 TR RP

Clean second go after a couple of laps on Directissima to warm up. Would make a great 7a+ sport...

Hidden 05/Jul/08 TR RP
Hidden 17/Jun/08 -
Hidden 10/Jun/08 TR
Hidden 05/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
joe larner 16/Sep/07 TR
ali_robb ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Jarin 20/Jun/07 TR rpt
with John
The Jazz Butcher ??/2007 -
mattnuttall 12/May/06 TR rpt
with Bartosz 'Bart' Zurawski
mattnuttall 25/Aug/05 Lead rpt
with Alan Holden
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead RP
Paul Clarke ??/2005 Lead
with Andy Kassyk
innes ??/1999 TR
Mike Owen 06/Jul/97 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
nokishatov 01/Jun/97 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 09/Jun/96 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 07/Jun/96 Lead rpt
with Tim Hatch
Roget 16/May/96 Lead O/S
with jon
switch ??/1996 Lead O/S
Alastair R ?/Oct/95 Lead RP
whispering nic ?/Aug/95 Lead
Cowflinger ?/Jul/95 Lead RP
robyn1 ??/1995 -
mattnuttall 06/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
Steve Crowe 26/Jun/93 Lead O/S

Proper onsight. When to crag really early to try it before the crowds arrived. All the insitu gear can be backed up with small wires.

with KM
Dave Musgrove 28/Mar/93 TR dog
with Kim Greenald, David
Dave Musgrove ??/1993 2nd
with David
crossleysm ??/1992 TR
Mike Owen 22/Jun/91 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 24/Jun/90 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/90 -
Dave Musgrove 27/Apr/90 TR β
with Kim Greenald
mark mcgowan01 ??/1990 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 12/Sep/87 2nd
with Ian Kyle, Bob Smith
Hidden ?/Jun/87 -
Mike Owen 17/Oct/85 Lead O/S
with Joe Picalli
Hidden 18/Jun/83 2nd
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 18
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Toproped
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Repeated
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set