A poorly protected 6a section leads directly up the arete to reach the break above 2/3rds height, where you can place lots of gear and shake out and contemplate the perplexing sequence required to reach the top.

Nick Dixon 1997

Ticklists

Nesscliffe: Marlene Aretes, Hard Routes

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
JamesWilliams 8 Aug Lead RP Mega. Managed to avoid the wet undercut and use something to the left. Wish I'd practiced the top out tho! IEpic! First e7
with Dizz, JamesA
Mega. Managed to avoid the wet undercut and use something to the left. Wish I'd practiced the top out tho! IEpic! First e7
with Dizz, JamesA
JamesWilliams 7 Aug Lead dog Fell at the last break with gear in as the undercut was greasy as sin! tried to re adjust it but left foot slipped. at least the gear is good shame I didn't take a more impressive fall.
Fell at the last break with gear in as the undercut was greasy as sin! tried to re adjust it but left foot slipped. at least the gear is good shame I didn't take a more impressive fall.
JamesWilliams 6 Aug TR rpt First go on the toppy today and sussed the gear
with JamesA
First go on the toppy today and sussed the gear
with JamesA
JamesWilliams 1 Aug TR dog onsight to the crux move then a couple of goes to sus it out. keen for this
with JamesA
onsight to the crux move then a couple of goes to sus it out. keen for this
with JamesA
Dizz 3 Jul TR dnf Cool moves at the top. Just need to work out which cool moves.
with Mike grant
Cool moves at the top. Just need to work out which cool moves.
with Mike grant
Tom Livingstone 1 Jul Lead RP Tried g/u twice in past, then checked it out on tr. Nice. I like the move where you basically fall off... but don't
with Ben Silvestre
Tried g/u twice in past, then checked it out on tr. Nice. I like the move where you basically fall off... but don't
with Ben Silvestre
Gus 5 May Lead Spicy!! Was well nearly off that top move!!
with ben rouse
Spicy!! Was well nearly off that top move!!
with ben rouse
mshorter 23 Mar Lead RP
with Dave Garry
with Dave Garry
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 17 Feb TR dog Really good, one quick go fell off on the funky bit at the top. Not too bad
with Andy Peak 1, David Greenald
Really good, one quick go fell off on the funky bit at the top. Not too bad
with Andy Peak 1, David Greenald
Tom Livingstone 30 Oct, 2018 Lead dnf 2 ground up attempts, on some of James's gear. Fell at the top crux.
2 ground up attempts, on some of James's gear. Fell at the top crux.
dominic lee 18 Oct, 2018 TR Great route..will return.
with simon nadin
Great route..will return.
with simon nadin
Ramon Marin 29 Sep, 2018 TR dog This is going to take a lot of work
with viki harvey
This is going to take a lot of work
with viki harvey
Ramon Marin 3 Sep, 2018 TR dog Account opened
Account opened
Hidden 18 Aug, 2018 TR dog
C coldwell-storry 13 Jun, 2018 Lead β Spicy times!!! missed the peg..oops
with the jew
Spicy times!!! missed the peg..oops
with the jew
Hidden 25 Mar, 2018 Lead
Adam Booth 5 Dec, 2017 Lead rpt Awesome! Beautiful climbing and a spectacular crescendo at the top. All the more absorbing having fallen off a few days ago...
with anguskille, Carl, Jon Gupta
Awesome! Beautiful climbing and a spectacular crescendo at the top. All the more absorbing having fallen off a few days ago...
with anguskille, Carl, Jon Gupta
Hidden 13 Nov, 2017 Lead RP
Ed Booth 29 Oct, 2017 TR rpt
Phil Davidson 21 Sep, 2017 Lead RP Damp conditions, raining but apart from a wee slip due to conditions...boom
with Karl Smith
Damp conditions, raining but apart from a wee slip due to conditions...boom
with Karl Smith
Dan Arkle ??, 2017 Lead RP
Ed Booth 30 Oct, 2016 TR rpt
with Dan McManus, Calum Musket
with Dan McManus, Calum Musket
Wil Treasure 17 Aug, 2014 TR dog Did the moves. Not so bad, 6a/b. Bold bit isn't too bad but last move felt insecure, unsure if I'd fancy leading it.
Did the moves. Not so bad, 6a/b. Bold bit isn't too bad but last move felt insecure, unsure if I'd fancy leading it.
Adam Booth 7 Aug, 2014 TR rpt Got all the gear sussed. The move up to the really good gear at 2/3 hight is really bold.
Got all the gear sussed. The move up to the really good gear at 2/3 hight is really bold.
Hidden 7 Aug, 2014 TR
Adam Booth 6 Aug, 2014 TR RP I should lead this one... Each move gets a little harder, and a great crux at the top.
I should lead this one... Each move gets a little harder, and a great crux at the top.
Hidden 6 Aug, 2014 TR
hamer89 7 May, 2013 Lead RP No pegs on this one, all natural gear! Great crux moves on top arête. Amazing few days at the perfect crag..
No pegs on this one, all natural gear! Great crux moves on top arête. Amazing few days at the perfect crag..
anguskille 20 Apr, 2013 Lead RP finally sent! a bit shaky on the lead but so glad to top it out, have to say it's one of my favourite Nesscliffe lines
with Finn McCann, Laura
finally sent! a bit shaky on the lead but so glad to top it out, have to say it's one of my favourite Nesscliffe lines
with Finn McCann, Laura
Cailean Harker 5 Jun, 2012 Lead dog took the lob on at the top a few times. This is a route where it would be great to have a bit of lank!
took the lob on at the top a few times. This is a route where it would be great to have a bit of lank!
Michael Allday 10 Mar, 2012 TR O/S
with rodney greenfield
with rodney greenfield
Hidden 4 Oct, 2011 TR dog
fennerz 28 Mar, 2011 Lead dog Close but no cigar...will get on it soon!
Close but no cigar...will get on it soon!
Ed Booth 28 Mar, 2011 Lead RP Cool, wanted to get this done at some point this sprng but thought may have needed more work. Fennerz was psyched as he got it in one on a rope yesterday, so we both tried on a rope today, i fell off at the crux, but when i pulled on I managed to do the moves. Fennerz went first and took the ride, so with his gear in, I led it. All the gear was where i was shaking out anyway so thats cool, and the one piece I did have to do myself was the peg mid crux sequence, which was spice. Nearly dropped the move. Ascent on film, so you can see my sketchy ass footwork. Enough of these half practised headpoints!
Cool, wanted to get this done at some point this sprng but thought may have needed more work. Fennerz was psyched as he got it in one on a rope yesterday, so we both tried on a rope today, i fell off at the crux, but when i pulled on I managed to do the moves. Fennerz went first and took the ride, so with his gear in, I led it. All the gear was where i was shaking out anyway so thats cool, and the one piece I did have to do myself was the peg mid crux sequence, which was spice. Nearly dropped the move. Ascent on film, so you can see my sketchy ass footwork. Enough of these half practised headpoints!
Mike Goldthorp 31 Aug, 2010 Lead RP Majestic arete climbing! Top roped clean up to the desperate crux move, figured that out after a few tries (ended up just reaaaaching and swinging round the arete, tall mans option - still felt nails!) Went up again later to check gear out, then lead it. Forgot quickdraw for peg at top so had to do 2nd crux move above pretty big runout, spice! Possibly 2nd ascent?
Majestic arete climbing! Top roped clean up to the desperate crux move, figured that out after a few tries (ended up just reaaaaching and swinging round the arete, tall mans option - still felt nails!) Went up again later to check gear out, then lead it. Forgot quickdraw for peg at top so had to do 2nd crux move above pretty big runout, spice! Possibly 2nd ascent?
Ed Booth 31 Aug, 2010 TR dog Actually got a weird sequence for this that will work. Think I may have to get this done over the winter. Terrifying route.
with Mikey G, Al Mason, smaller rich
Actually got a weird sequence for this that will work. Think I may have to get this done over the winter. Terrifying route.
with Mikey G, Al Mason, smaller rich
smallerrich 30 Aug, 2010 TR RP Retroflashed. Psychtastic.
Retroflashed. Psychtastic.
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Voting
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
Votes cast 6
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 5
Style of ascent
Toproped
Lead
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set