UKC

Restricted Access

Currently access can only be gained with permission of the landowner, Patrick Walker via email. Mr Walker owns the farm land and buildings below the left hand side of the cliff and the left wing of the crag. Other landowners own the various parcels of land below Central Wall and the Right Wing and the majority of the cliff face and are happy for climbing to continue but so far, the only agreed access route from the road is via Mr Walker's Land.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to the whole crag for both peregrine and raven. The birds on this cliff are more sensitive to disturbance than at other sites such as Malham Cove.

12m.

Rockfax Description
The short wall beneath the long roof. © Rockfax

FA. Nigel Baker, Dave Musgrove 1999.

Ticklists

Nigel Baker Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dave Musgrove 19 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with you now Fiend. A crucial foothold has come off since we did the first ascent. that made both the move and clipping a bit easier. I'll have a look at re-positioning the bolts next time up. Dave
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree with you now Fiend. A crucial foothold has come off since we did the first ascent. that made both the move and clipping a bit easier. I'll have a look at re-positioning the bolts next time up. Dave
Fiend 18 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Seems hard for the grade and possibly 6c+ if you compare it to, say, the 7as at the lower right of Malham Catwalk. The crux pull is reachy and actually harder than it looks, there's still some trickiness above. The bolts are stupid - 2nd and 3rd should be placed 2' higher. Still a good route though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Seems hard for the grade and possibly 6c+ if you compare it to, say, the 7as at the lower right of Malham Catwalk. The crux pull is reachy and actually harder than it looks, there's still some trickiness above. The bolts are stupid - 2nd and 3rd should be placed 2' higher. Still a good route though.
RD 23 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: One very hard move which is easier if you're a little taller. Bolts are completely in the wrong place for an on-site. Better to do the route tothe right first.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One very hard move which is easier if you're a little taller. Bolts are completely in the wrong place for an on-site. Better to do the route tothe right first.

Logged Ascents

16 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blue Scar

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Directissima

Grade: 6c ***
(Kilnsey)

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