UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverdale or Goredale instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

 

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.

 

Peregrine restriction:  Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.

The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period. 

House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

16m.

Rockfax Description
A technical outing. The first bolted line on the far left of the better rock. Take care with some dodgy blocks up high. © Rockfax

FA. Mick Ryan 1992. Originally called 'Skip to my Loo', which may seem a more appropriate name to many..

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ian Dunn 3 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Completely re-bolted with bolts in line with the route and extended by another 15 metres Over Dunn 7a Spring 2023
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Completely re-bolted with bolts in line with the route and extended by another 15 metres Over Dunn 7a Spring 2023
Fakey Rocks 4 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: 6c? If someone capable of 7b+ Rp's couldn't onsight this then i doubt its 6c. Probably 6c until you get to the finish but that finish possibly makes it a 7a or fairly hard 6c+. (...?) Bit scary with the manky top bolt too. Not sure how to finish it...clip from the undercut? or power through to a finishing jug up left of the chain, clipping should then be less of a panic!
Show beta
βeta: 6c? If someone capable of 7b+ Rp's couldn't onsight this then i doubt its 6c. Probably 6c until you get to the finish but that finish possibly makes it a 7a or fairly hard 6c+. (...?) Bit scary with the manky top bolt too. Not sure how to finish it...clip from the undercut? or power through to a finishing jug up left of the chain, clipping should then be less of a panic!
Daimon - Rockfax 16 Jan, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Not the best route in the world. But nice to have a 6c Around the place.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not the best route in the world. But nice to have a 6c Around the place.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Malham Cove

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Riders on the Storm

Grade: 6c ***
(Foredale Quarry)

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