430m, 14 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A popular route with good exposure and enjoyable climbing. The traverse of pitch 6 is slightly polished but wonderfully airy and satisfying. Being considerably easier than its neighbouring climbs, it does receive more attention but even so it is rarely crowded and is well worth seeking out.
Start below the long 100m corner set in the arete.
1) IV+, 40m. Climb the corner to a solid thread belay.
2) IV, 40m. Continue in the line of the corner to reach a yellow roof on the left. Continue past the possible belay and continue to reach a small ledge. Belay on a peg/thread.
3) V+, 35m. Continue in the corner to where it splits. Take the right-hand corner (the left is equally climbable on good rock but with less fixed gear) to exit onto the top of a pillar. Belay on the upper of the two possible belays.
4) IV-, 40m. Climb a crack up the slab to the left of the arete with numerous possible lines on excellent rock. Belay on threads on top of a small leaning pillar.
5) IV, 45m. Climb a few metres above the belay then traverse right on a good ledge towards the arete. Follow a flake on the arete to a small terrace.
6) IV, 30m. Climb a grey crack to reach a pulpit on the arete, below a steep yellow face. From the pulpit ascend 2m immediately right of the arete, then make a 8m traverse right to the base of an overhanging crack. Belay below the crack on an uncomfortable stance.
7) V-, 10m. Climb 2m up the crack to the right of the belay then traverse 4m right. Climb a vertical black face to reach a wide ledge.
8) IV+, 30m. Traverse 2m left then climb a ramp to the right to a chimney. Climb the chimney and exit onto the large scree ledge which splits the pillar at half-height. Belay on threads.
9) II, 35m. Ascend the scree ledge towards the yellow face above. Climb a few metres along the buttress below the face.
10) V-, 30m. Keep the arete on the right and move slightly left. Ascend to the base of a steep crack and climb this to reach a second crack. Follow the flake of the crack then traverse right to the belay.
11) IV+, 25m. Move to the right of the arete, overcoming a couple of bulges. Move back left of the arete to reach a comfortable stance below a corner.
12) IV, 40m. Climb a crack then enter the corner with some technical moves. Exit right to a ledge and follow this a couple of metres to reach the belay.
13) IV+, 40m. Climb to the top of a small pillar on the left, then climb a short wall to a small overhang. Overcome this to reach a slab and climb this rightwards to reach a wide sloping ledge.
14) IV, 50m. Keeping right of the arete, follow a wide flake then exit onto a ramp leading right. Follow this to reach the notch between the face of the second arete and a pillar. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
UIAA grade V (v+ crux)- Amazing route up the obvious exposed arete with not so obvious deviation onto the face at the top of the first half. Pitches are:
IV+ IV V+ IV- IV IV V- IV+ II&V- IV+ IV IV+ IV II There are some bolts for belays and a few old pegs between. Take a slim led rack, 2-3 medium friends, a few medium wires and long slings . Equates to about stiff VS but feels harder because of exposure!

Pompanin/Alvera 04/Aug/1946

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel, Dolomites Trip

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Louvet 18 Sep, 2018 2nd With Guacomole!
With Guacomole!
Dexter JW 15 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Deary65
with Deary65
matthewbpt 21 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Amazing climbing on the arete. Didn't start off great, with a massive headache as we got out of the car at the hut, and shortly afterwards realising I'd left my climbing shoes behind. Holger saved the day though, giving me a painkiller and the second pair of shoes which he happened to bring along too (and they fit!). Swung leads with Holger and learned a lot on the way, with some mistakes made by me with rope drag and route finding. I leaved every other pitch starting with pitch 2, missing the belay of pitch 3 and leading half of the third pitch (the crux of the route!) before improvising a belay on a peg backed up with a tricam. The airy traverse pitch about half way up was amazing! Topped out about 5/6 hours after starting.
with Holger
Amazing climbing on the arete. Didn't start off great, with a massive headache as we got out of the car at the hut, and shortly afterwards realising I'd left my climbing shoes behind. Holger saved the day though, giving me a painkiller and the second pair of shoes which he happened to bring along too (and they fit!). Swung leads with Holger and learned a lot on the way, with some mistakes made by me with rope drag and route finding. I leaved every other pitch starting with pitch 2, missing the belay of pitch 3 and leading half of the third pitch (the crux of the route!) before improvising a belay on a peg backed up with a tricam. The airy traverse pitch about half way up was amazing! Topped out about 5/6 hours after starting.
with Holger
Normunds 24 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with Raita Reine
with Raita Reine
daveclarke5 23 Jul, 2018 AltLd Best route of week (better than vinatzer). Pitch 7 is the one that will stay in your memory.
with Stephen
Best route of week (better than vinatzer). Pitch 7 is the one that will stay in your memory.
with Stephen
Alessandro Tentori 9 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Tommaso Regesta
with Tommaso Regesta
Hidden 17 Sep, 2017 AltLd dnf
James corfe 8 Sep, 2017 AltLd Awesome climb middle pitches slowed by some pushy Germans. Decent easy but exposed the exposed bit of the down has bolts so moving together mega easy
Awesome climb middle pitches slowed by some pushy Germans. Decent easy but exposed the exposed bit of the down has bolts so moving together mega easy
fweatherall1 7 Sep, 2017 AltLd
Abi Chard 4 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 Jul, 2017 AltLd
GraMc 27 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S moved together on the whole thing, did in the same day as Costantini-gherdina, i think two hours or so up
with rory
moved together on the whole thing, did in the same day as Costantini-gherdina, i think two hours or so up
with rory
RocKalina ?Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
beardy mike ??, 2017 -
Finlandia 19 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Major route! Though one of the shortest hereabouts. Lovely climbing, some choice of route in places. New 2 bolt belays from half way up (added I think because of the adjacent route Il Vecchio Leone e la Giovane Fifona that joins the upper half. Pitch 10 we went right of a roof - fine but I think it was easier staying left. Last pitch 55m to final bolt belay, intermediate belays possible. Snow at top. Eye opening slopy loose traverse path with memorable pillar of sand above huge drop and previously mentioned obituary plaque! Keep harness on and move together.
Major route! Though one of the shortest hereabouts. Lovely climbing, some choice of route in places. New 2 bolt belays from half way up (added I think because of the adjacent route Il Vecchio Leone e la Giovane Fifona that joins the upper half. Pitch 10 we went right of a roof - fine but I think it was easier staying left. Last pitch 55m to final bolt belay, intermediate belays possible. Snow at top. Eye opening slopy loose traverse path with memorable pillar of sand above huge drop and previously mentioned obituary plaque! Keep harness on and move together.
Annaclaire16 19 Sep, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 12 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
MrRiley 22 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Probably one of the best rock routes i've ever done, simply fantastic! Rockfax bang on apart from a little ambiguity around pitch 12/13 - we climbed a chimney at the end of 12 then moved around to the right side of the arete to bolts and the wall and overhang of 13. Pitches 6/7 outrageously exposed! Descent easy but traverse around gully head very loose and exposed so moved together briefly making use of the numerous pegs and bolts (and noting the memorial plaque). Stellar day! http://www.mistymountainhop.net/2016/09/dolomiti-super-summer/
Probably one of the best rock routes i've ever done, simply fantastic! Rockfax bang on apart from a little ambiguity around pitch 12/13 - we climbed a chimney at the end of 12 then moved around to the right side of the arete to bolts and the wall and overhang of 13. Pitches 6/7 outrageously exposed! Descent easy but traverse around gully head very loose and exposed so moved together briefly making use of the numerous pegs and bolts (and noting the memorial plaque). Stellar day! http://www.mistymountainhop.net/2016/09/dolomiti-super-summer/
Debbie Lee 22 Aug, 2016 AltLd Absolutely loved this route! It's such a distinctive feature and the climbing was great. Didn't completely tally with the guidebook on pitch 12 but luckily saw the belay above to get back on track.
with MrRiley
Absolutely loved this route! It's such a distinctive feature and the climbing was great. Didn't completely tally with the guidebook on pitch 12 but luckily saw the belay above to get back on track.
with MrRiley
Mike Roger ??, 2016 -
kingjam 23 Jul, 2015 AltLd Awesome climb , descent a bit hairy keep your harness on 6.5hrs
with Matt Naylor
Awesome climb , descent a bit hairy keep your harness on 6.5hrs
with Matt Naylor
Hidden 1 Aug, 2014 -
J_Spooner 1 Aug, 2014 -
David Horwood 23 Jul, 2014 -
Paula Ryan ?Jul, 2014 -
with Robin Brooke
with Robin Brooke
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Jul, 2014 Lead
with David Horwood
with David Horwood
Hidden ?Jul, 2014 Lead
jcw ??, 2014 -
Hidden 25 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
AlanLittle 17 Aug, 2012 AltLd
with Thomas Ulber
with Thomas Ulber
Ralfy 1 Aug, 2012 AltLd
with james duffie
with james duffie
decs 1 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Dan
with Dan
Swotson 23 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S 14 pitches. Actually only led 3 pitches - but good ones! p1) 10m traverse, very exposed, fairly easy, no gear (literally). P2)An open corner with steep exit, and p3) 2nd from last pitch- easy with a neat little pull over a bulge at the end. A great mountain climb. Nadia took just 2 friends, slings and quickdraws. Showed me how to climb quickly. Basically, solo most of the route! ~3 & 3/4 hours
with Nadia Dimai
14 pitches. Actually only led 3 pitches - but good ones! p1) 10m traverse, very exposed, fairly easy, no gear (literally). P2)An open corner with steep exit, and p3) 2nd from last pitch- easy with a neat little pull over a bulge at the end. A great mountain climb. Nadia took just 2 friends, slings and quickdraws. Showed me how to climb quickly. Basically, solo most of the route! ~3 & 3/4 hours
with Nadia Dimai
tomhull 4 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S awesome! stay left of the arete for most of the route as we took a detour right which was a faff
with matt harris
awesome! stay left of the arete for most of the route as we took a detour right which was a faff
with matt harris
Hidden 4 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
dancurrie ?Jul, 2012 AltLd
with Duncan Steen
with Duncan Steen
Hidden 22 Jun, 2012 Lead
Peter Holder 7 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
with Lorna Vance
with Lorna Vance
danimal88 8 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S awesome line. more of a diedre and face than arete.
awesome line. more of a diedre and face than arete.
whistler 8 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Great route. Exposed but easy descent
Great route. Exposed but easy descent
Hidden 28 Jun, 2011 AltLd
alpinist63 29 May, 2011 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden 21 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
uphillnow 2 Sep, 2010 AltLd Held up on first pitches but managed to get passed after a couple of pitches. 4 hours.
with Stuart Holmes
Held up on first pitches but managed to get passed after a couple of pitches. 4 hours.
with Stuart Holmes
Hidden 7 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
dickie01 31 Jul, 2010 AltLd Good route start early to not get held up behind other groups.
with Julian King
Good route start early to not get held up behind other groups.
with Julian King
Marq 31 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S Called South-West Ridge on the First South Face Pillar in the 2005 Alpine Club Guide
Called South-West Ridge on the First South Face Pillar in the 2005 Alpine Club Guide
Hidden 28 Aug, 2009 2nd
Hidden 25 Aug, 2009 AltLd dnf
Lev 25 Aug, 2009 AltLd dnf
with Emma
with Emma
Hidden 12 Aug, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 6 Aug, 2009 AltLd
Dunx ?Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
TiffTiff 12 Jun, 2009 AltLd dnf Got scared after exposed,polished pitch and bravely ran away... Probably more scary than carrying on up (Oops)
with tbs105
Got scared after exposed,polished pitch and bravely ran away... Probably more scary than carrying on up (Oops)
with tbs105
tbs105 12 Jun, 2009 AltLd dnf Hard work, lead first 110m in two pitches, felt pretty tough.
Hard work, lead first 110m in two pitches, felt pretty tough.
Hidden 25 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
Mihkel 10 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S A fine climb. 7.5 hrs (GBT+2.5), got caught behind slow parties.
with Mike Barclay
A fine climb. 7.5 hrs (GBT+2.5), got caught behind slow parties.
with Mike Barclay
brianrunner ?Jul, 2001 AltLd a great route, with a nice exposed right traverse and steep wall just after halfway. Easy approach and descent. recommended
with martina
a great route, with a nice exposed right traverse and steep wall just after halfway. Easy approach and descent. recommended
with martina
NickJH ?Jul, 2001 AltLd O/S
with RGraves
with RGraves
adamwesthead 7 Jun, 2001 AltLd O/S Lead pitches 2,4,6,8,10,12
with Hoult
Lead pitches 2,4,6,8,10,12
with Hoult
Neil McA 25 Aug, 1997 AltLd O/S About VS and not very good.
with Andy Perkins
About VS and not very good.
with Andy Perkins
Hidden 5 Jul, 1995 Lead
Seymore Butt ??, 1970 AltLd
with Little Dennis
with Little Dennis
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Voting
High VI-
Mid VI-
Low VI-
High V+
Mid V+
Low V+
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set