Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
Good gear but care is need with the rock in places. Start 6m right of the base of the big corner.
1) 4c, 18m. Climb the right-trending crack on good undercuts to a bulge. Pass this on large holds and continue to a roof. Traverse right under a hanging block and climb up to a belay.
2) 4c, 20m. Gain the face/corner above the faultline and climb the corner-cracks to a roof. Move left via a ledge on the arete and climb a second set of cracks to a second roof. Move right to the original crack and exit. Climbing straight up the crack is E1. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb starts 6m to the east of Koo-Koo.
1) 4c. Climb the large right-trending crack on good undercuts to a bulge. Pass this on good holds and continue to the roof. Traverse right under the frightening block and climb up to the break. Difficult nuts at the belay.
2) Gain the face above the break and climb the corner cracks to a roof. Move left via a ledge on the arête and climb a second set of cracks to a second roof. Move right to the original crack and exit.
WARNING: Route is called RIP for a good reason. A lot of loose blocks, especially at the top-out. Tread carefully and test everything before loading it.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
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Lightning Wall Direct
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)