UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverdale or Goredale instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

 

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.

 

Peregrine restriction:  Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.

The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period. 

House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

6m.

Rockfax Description
One of the few easier routes on these big central walls. © Rockfax

FA. Greg Rimmer 1986.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dave Musgrove 14 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: It is still a project as far as I know. Pretty blank over the lip.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It is still a project as far as I know. Pretty blank over the lip.
Ally Smith 11 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: There's a bolt above the lower off - where do they lead, and at what grade
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There's a bolt above the lower off - where do they lead, and at what grade
Fiend 14 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Was extended to a natural hands off finish position in the scoop, now about 9m. Not worth a start but quite tolerable as a warm-up.
Show beta
βeta: Was extended to a natural hands off finish position in the scoop, now about 9m. Not worth a start but quite tolerable as a warm-up.
Daimon - Rockfax 10 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I have been back and feel it is 6a+. Excelent re bolting work. Thankyou to who ever did it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I have been back and feel it is 6a+. Excelent re bolting work. Thankyou to who ever did it.
Neil Binns 24 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Has been re-equipped
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Has been re-equipped
Daimon - Rockfax 17 Jan, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Very very short. But worth a walm up. 6b I think. No stars. But grate name.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very very short. But worth a walm up. 6b I think. No stars. But grate name.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Malham Cove

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 54
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Silver Buttons

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Langcliffe Quarry)

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