UKC

160m, 5 pitches. Scramble to a belay below the white blaze.
1. 45m Follow The Slant, to the base of a steep crack on the right wall.
2. 10m Climb the steep crack
3. 45m Make a long easy traverse right to foot of deep-cut crack.
4. 30m Climb the steep, strenuous crack.
5. 30m Continue up the crack to a junction with West Trap Route. Follow this for 45m.
Variation: Direct Exit 65m Hard Severe * (1958)
Break off original route 10m along the easy traverse on pitch 3.
1. 10m Climb a groove to a corner below an overhanging crack.
2. 10m Climb the wall on the left of the crack then traverse back across the crack to a shelf and flake belay.
3. 10m Climb the overhanging crack (8m) to good finishing holds.
4. 35m A short crack now leads to easier climbing diagonally to the middle of the buttress. Join the easy finish of West Trap Route to finish.
Variation: Direct Exit-Yellow Groove Continuation 65m Hard Severe * (1964)
Gains the upper yellow groove to give a more continuous finish.
4. 15m Climb a slab, then round a corner, climb a steep groove (piton) and move left beneath an overhang to a stance and belays below a big corner with vertical, yellow tinted left wall.
5. 12m Climb rightwards to a stance and spike belays on the arete.
6. 30m Climb the arete until, beneath the top, move rightwards for 6m until a slab can be climbed to a scree ledge beneath another corner; belay.
7. 8m Climb the corner to reach easy scrambling.

1951.

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User Date Notes
Gav_92 24 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 4 avoid crack on left wall, flake on the left wall is loose, big and has a crack where it is attached to the mountain.
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βeta: Pitch 4 avoid crack on left wall, flake on the left wall is loose, big and has a crack where it is attached to the mountain.

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Guidebooks for Sgurr Alasdair - Sgurr Sgumain

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Alt Leads
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Route of Interest
Commando Crack

Grade: HS ***
(Sgùrr Alasdair)

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