(Heaven and Hell) A climb of contrast; the first six pitches (Heaven) are great, up perfect cracks in white granite; the top half (Hell) follows a black basalt dike - unprotected and grassy. The route sees few repeats because of the upper half.
1) N6, 45m. Step right into the right-hand of a pair of grooves. Follow this to a thin crack and climb this to a belay ledge.
2) N4, 15m. Climb a short crack on the right to the top of a pedestal and good ledge.
3) N6+, 45m. Climb the superb 'Yosemite Dihedral' to another good but small ledge.
4) N7, 35m. Continue straight up a difficult finger-crack. Where it ends in the middle of a blank wall, climb horizontally left with difficulty (and poor protection) on small edges into another thin, vertical crack on the left. Belay just above on a small stance. Sensational moves that you don't want to fall off!
5) N6, 30m. Jam the next finger-crack, then make unprotected moves up and left into yet another crack. Belay on a sloping ledge at the top of this.
6) N5+, 20m. Climb the next finger-crack to its top, then make a traverse left across the face to a belay ledge on the left side of the 'Potato Chip' - a huge detached flake and wide crack, clearly visible from the road - the end of Heaven!
7) N5+, 50m. Traverse horizontally left (easy, spaced gear) until you can climb back right up a narrow grass ledge into the base of the upper corner - the start of Hell. Climb up angular black rock on good holds to a small grass ledge with tricky belays.
8) N5, 35m. Continue up the same line on good holds up black rock to a flake on the right. Belay higher on the left at a block. There is some grass and moss on this pitch.
9) N5, 35m. Climb a crack, traverse right across a thin flake, then move up and right to a stance at the base of the V-groove.
10) N6, 50m. Climb easily up the V-groove (capped by a triangular roof), then make unprotected moves left into the 'Green Caterpillar' - a black basalt dike filled with a carpet of green moss. Unpleasant moves up this (5+ and usually wet) lead to a stance beside a large loose block.
11) N5+, 50m. Step right and climb a groove to a white block on the right, which is climbed to easier moves up flakes and cracks leading to a good belay ledge.
12) N5+, 35m. Head left onto the arete on clean rock, and finish up a crack to the top and redemption! © Rockfax