Rockfax Description
(The Shrinking Party or 'Wetting the Baby's Head' - quite what is being shrunk is open to interpretation!)
This combination of pitches has some hard climbing, though is rather lacking in line. Start as for Guns 'n' Roses under the crack with a prominent tree. Carry a full range of cams.
1) N6, 40m. Climb up the first 5m of Guns 'n' Roses. Step left, then climb a thin finger-crack following it through two overhangs to a belay on a ledge below the Gandalf overhang.
2) N6+, 25m. Traverse right under a white, A-shaped overhang, - hard to protect. Swing out right, climb up a crack, and traverse left to a position below the prominent vertical crack of Guns n' Roses. Hand-traverse strenuously right along a horizontal crack, then follow cracks to a ledge and belay.
3) N6-, 35m. Climb a short groove to join Guns 'n' Roses. © Rockfax
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Grade: n6+ ***
(Gandalf)