Restricted Access
Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack. The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care. B
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
Gain and finish up the cracks left of Exit Corner. © Rockfax
FA. D.Branch, C.Heard 17/Sep/1992.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| rowanbrandreth | 16 Oct, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nice solid VS with good good gear and solid hand jams (although very sharp so crack gloves or tape will make this much more pleasant). Be aware of loose rock topping out. When reading other comments, bear in mind that until recently Rockfax had this route mislabelled as a neighbouring HVS so don\'t be put off by them! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Nice solid VS with good good gear and solid hand jams (although very sharp so crack gloves or tape will make this much more pleasant). Be aware of loose rock topping out. When reading other comments, bear in mind that until recently Rockfax had this route mislabelled as a neighbouring HVS so don't be put off by them! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head
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Lydstep Traverse
Grade: VS ***
(Lydstep Point Area)