Rockfax Description
Climb the lower wall to the centre of the roof. Pull powerfully through and finish steeply leftwards on pockets and edges. © Rockfax

FA. Andy Long Mar/2007

Ticklists

Portland

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Gus 13 Sep Lead dog One of my worse ideas trying this in the boiling sun!!
with Vicky hurley
One of my worse ideas trying this in the boiling sun!!
with Vicky hurley
JCAshman 3 Sep Lead RP Really good 2nd half with cool holds and sequences. 2nd go
Really good 2nd half with cool holds and sequences. 2nd go
Aaron.Clifford 1 Sep Lead RP A bit frustrated to not get this on first redpoint! Fluffed the slab at the top by not having the right feet :(. So, second redpoint/third try for me. Direct finish at the end for sure, only a wasteman would hop on to the jugs of wolfgang.
A bit frustrated to not get this on first redpoint! Fluffed the slab at the top by not having the right feet :(. So, second redpoint/third try for me. Direct finish at the end for sure, only a wasteman would hop on to the jugs of wolfgang.
Hidden 24 Jul Lead RP
Hidden 13 Jul Lead dog
GrahamGiles 13 Jul Lead RP Dusty start can be avoided if you find the right holds. No hand rest just before the crux helps but move into the roof section will weed out anyone not worthy before some relentless small hold pulling to the chains. Not for the faint hearted!
Dusty start can be avoided if you find the right holds. No hand rest just before the crux helps but move into the roof section will weed out anyone not worthy before some relentless small hold pulling to the chains. Not for the faint hearted!
Qisheng Xie 13 Jul Lead RP Easy climbing to the rest then a technical and powerful squeeze, you have to hope the last drop can be squeezed out, really squeeze hard. Direct finish for the extra squeeze.
Easy climbing to the rest then a technical and powerful squeeze, you have to hope the last drop can be squeezed out, really squeeze hard. Direct finish for the extra squeeze.
JackMac 4 May Lead dnf One attempt - couldn't work out the roof.
One attempt - couldn't work out the roof.
Llinos C 6 Apr Lead RP Interesting moves, pretty bouldery crux but good route nonetheless
with brices
Interesting moves, pretty bouldery crux but good route nonetheless
with brices
brices 24 Mar Lead RP Proper good one this. Good holds and powerful moves over roof to a techy headwall. Don't go straying into Wolfgang forever and missing the top hard moves.
Proper good one this. Good holds and powerful moves over roof to a techy headwall. Don't go straying into Wolfgang forever and missing the top hard moves.
John_Beesley 4 Aug, 2018 Lead dog Took me ages to figure out the crux! Not too bad once you know how. Dont agree its soft at all; maybe for the super route fit - absolutely relentless past the roof! Wish Id come down a bit earlier before it got too hot. Will go next time.
Took me ages to figure out the crux! Not too bad once you know how. Dont agree its soft at all; maybe for the super route fit - absolutely relentless past the roof! Wish Id come down a bit earlier before it got too hot. Will go next time.
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 30 Jul, 2018 Lead RP Fell off the onsight at the top then did it 1st RP. Cool moves over the bulges.
Fell off the onsight at the top then did it 1st RP. Cool moves over the bulges.
Dandan 14 Jul, 2018 Lead RP First redpoint, not even as hard as I first thought, you can avoid a powerful move to the flowstone undercuts with good footwork, definitely a soft tick, but a good route.
First redpoint, not even as hard as I first thought, you can avoid a powerful move to the flowstone undercuts with good footwork, definitely a soft tick, but a good route.
Dandan 30 Jun, 2018 Lead dog Surprised by how good this was, I mean, the bottom half is shit soup but the top section was much better than expected, good moves on actual holds. Definitely one to return for.
Surprised by how good this was, I mean, the bottom half is shit soup but the top section was much better than expected, good moves on actual holds. Definitely one to return for.
La Mont 8 Aug, 2016 Lead RP
with Mike Gubbins
with Mike Gubbins
PeterDawson 2 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Powerful in roof with awkward undercut moves then a crimpy headwall when your fingers start uncurling. The start isn't very good.
Powerful in roof with awkward undercut moves then a crimpy headwall when your fingers start uncurling. The start isn't very good.
Javis 2 Apr, 2015 Lead dog
trev_f 9 Aug, 2013 Lead dog
brices 6 Oct, 2012 Lead dog Very technical and powerful past the roof
with duma
Very technical and powerful past the roof
with duma
Martin Krasnansky 13 Aug, 2009 Lead RP
Rob Kennard 26 Jul, 2009 -
with Jane Weir
with Jane Weir
8 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
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Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set