Restricted Access
The crag lies within a National Nature Reserve and is an important area of SSSI semi-ancient woodland with Special Protection Area (SPA) status. The Lake District National Park Authority (responsible for managing recreation at Chapel Head) and the BMC have worked closely together to develop the following good practice guidelines which should be followed by all climbers visiting the crag:
- No access to cliffs north of central gully.
- Please do not remove ivy or damage trees along crag base.
- Take all litter home with you.
- There are no toilets at Chapel Head - please be discreet.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Signed restriction for nesting peregrine, applies to the whole crag. This pair of birds are well established having nested sucessfully on the crag for a number of years.
As always, the nest site will be monitored and the restriction lifted if the young birds fledge early - this page will be kept udpated as soon as any additional information is received from those monitoring the site which might change the details of the restriction.
Rockfax Description
A long and interesting expedition taking in some of the better easier climbing on the Moonchild Buttress. Run-out in places. Described here with a more logical start.
1) 5c, 10m. Follow Intersellar Overdrive to the 3rd bolt. Belay.
2) 6a, 20m. Traverse across the wall crossing Cement Head to the poor peg on War of the Worlds. Now continue across Bleep and Booster (bolt) to Moonchild follow this to its belay.
3) 4b, 7m. Move right to the tree belay of Lunatic (next page).
4) 5c, 10m. The final pitch of Lunatic. © Rockfax
FA. Al Phizacklea 1986. FA. (1pt aid) Ed Cleasby 1978.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chapel Head Scar
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The Moon Loon Connection
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Chapel Head Scar)