UKC

Restricted Access

The crag lies within a National Nature Reserve and is an important area of SSSI semi-ancient woodland with Special Protection Area (SPA) status. The Lake District National Park Authority (responsible for managing recreation at Chapel Head) and the BMC have worked closely together to develop the following good practice guidelines which should be followed by all climbers visiting the crag:

  • No access to cliffs north of central gully.
  • Please do not remove ivy or damage trees along crag base.
  • Take all litter home with you.
  • There are no toilets at Chapel Head - please be discreet.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Signed restriction for nesting peregrine, applies to the whole crag. This pair of birds are well established having nested sucessfully on the crag for a number of years.

As always, the nest site will be monitored and the restriction lifted if the young birds fledge early - this page will be kept udpated as soon as any additional information is received from those monitoring the site which might change the details of the restriction.

24m.

Rockfax Description
This fantastic route ranks as one of the best of its grade in the country. The steep lower section gives dynamic climbing on reasonable holds. Once through the lower bulge the stunning upper wall is about as good as it gets. Harder since the loss of a small bush used at the start. © Rockfax

FA. Al Phizacklea 1985.

Ticklists

Very good routes in the UK , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , Lakes Sport and Slate Top 50

Feedback

User Date Notes
Julian Cooper 6 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The second bolt rotates in its hole and needs chopping and replacing. Be sure to stick clip B3 to stay safe.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The second bolt rotates in its hole and needs chopping and replacing. Be sure to stick clip B3 to stay safe.
Nick Sherring 19 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: 2nd bolt still loose
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 2nd bolt still loose
hamer89 19 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Second bolt loose, don't use
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Second bolt loose, don't use
John Kettle 4 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Second bolt is loose and spins, be warned.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Second bolt is loose and spins, be warned.
Andy Farnell 25 Jul, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Utterly stunning route of great character and quality. Soild 7b.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Utterly stunning route of great character and quality. Soild 7b.

Logged Ascents

187 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Chapel Head Scar

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Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 80
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Super Dupont

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Chapel Head Scar)

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