UKC

400m, 12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A twelve pitch climb up the centre of Pillaren's massive buttress, that forms the main angle of the mountain between the tall rambling face to the right and the clean slab of the main slabby section and Bare blåbær down to the left. A good quality long route with an Alpine feel and not too difficult. Some large gear will be found useful for the wider cracks. Route finding can be difficult, though in general stay just to the left of the grassy section in the middle of the buttress. Once the steeper rock of the summit wall is reached (above the large ledge system) climb a high quality crack and groove system up the middle of the headwall - variations possible. © Rockfax

Odd-Roar Wilk, Niels Poulsen Sep/1990.

Ticklists

Lofoten Mid Grade Routes

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User Date Notes
painjansen 2 Jan, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Don’t even try to find the abseil on this route. There are no fixed abseil points. Instead follow the ridge for a long time before scrabbling down towards a path on the right
Show beta
βeta: Don’t even try to find the abseil on this route. There are no fixed abseil points. Instead follow the ridge for a long time before scrabbling down towards a path on the right
henrygiles99 22 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: We heard on the grapevine about a rescue on this route from a party trying to descend via abseil. Apparently there are no fixed abseil point.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We heard on the grapevine about a rescue on this route from a party trying to descend via abseil. Apparently there are no fixed abseil point.

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
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Route of Interest
Gaukerisset

Grade: n6- ***
(Festvågveggen)

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