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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

22m.

Rockfax Description
A well-travelled and very good route. Climb the lower wall via a wide crack before moving up and left to below a big pillar of flowstone. Climb the pillar and finish leftwards through the final overhangs in a great position. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Taylor 11/Oct/1992.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Portland , UK "Orange Spot Sport" - The Best of The Rest? , Portland sub 6b , Portland , Portland, Dorset , Portland Sendathon , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West (Sport) , Dorset 2-3* 6a's

Feedback

User Date Notes
Stacy Hackner 10 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Loads of loose rock in the crack. My partner chucked a load of reasonably sized rocks down as she stepped up and one hit me in the head. Thank goodness for helmets.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loads of loose rock in the crack. My partner chucked a load of reasonably sized rocks down as she stepped up and one hit me in the head. Thank goodness for helmets.
greensam 16 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Careful not to end up on Englands Dreaming...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Careful not to end up on Englands Dreaming...
FabioM 15 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing route with an amazing exit, well protected but last bolt could be closer to the chain.
Show beta
βeta: Amazing route with an amazing exit, well protected but last bolt could be closer to the chain.
catt 31 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: very nice route, getting better with height. the crux is definitely getting up the tufa. the step round the roof defo feels commiting but big holds aplenty appear and quite easy really.
Show beta
βeta: very nice route, getting better with height. the crux is definitely getting up the tufa. the step round the roof defo feels commiting but big holds aplenty appear and quite easy really.
Wilbur 21 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: cool sequence on the phallus. top move over roof is committing and hard at the grade but good rest beforehand means just about top-end 6a and not 6a+.
Show beta
βeta: cool sequence on the phallus. top move over roof is committing and hard at the grade but good rest beforehand means just about top-end 6a and not 6a+.
nick w 3 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: another good bit of flowstone pulling
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: another good bit of flowstone pulling
Alex More 12 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Nice bold step at the top, exposure and some level headed climbing,top route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice bold step at the top, exposure and some level headed climbing,top route
SteveWright1967 25 Jul, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock low down is now cleaning up with traffic - brilliant top tufa earns 2 stars
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose rock low down is now cleaning up with traffic - brilliant top tufa earns 2 stars

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 215
Votes cast 199
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Stalker's Zone

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Wallsend South)

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