Access Banned
As described in the 2010 CC guide, climbing at Symonds Yat is only permitted on the north-west facing cliffs - from The Introductory Rocks to the Final Zone inclusive.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrine falcons have established a nest since 2019 on Strathdon, in the White Wall. Climbers should therefore avoid all routes from Motorway Madness to Night Nurse, inclusive, during the restricted period.
16m.
Takes the steep wall right of the upper groove of White Hart by sustained and quite pumpy climbing. Climb White Hart to the shallow cave where the groove steepens and kinks left. Bridge up above the cave to fix gear in the wall, then make a tricky traverse rightwards until under the peg (handy sidepull out right). Make technical and bold moves to reach the first peg, continue steeply on better holds past a second peg, and finish direct. The pegs have recently been replaced.
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Route of Interest
Firefly
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Wintour's Leap)