UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

18m.

Rockfax Description
A dusty slab that as predicted has failed to clean up, but still has some good climbing. Climb the wall to the right of the grey streaks passing a welded-on flake to a lower-off in the groove above the upper breaks. © Rockfax

FA. Neal Heanes 24/Mar/1996.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
brian watson 16 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Currently this is in a right stat ! Very friable nearly stacked it a couple of times holds breaking, definitely no stars :-(
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Currently this is in a right stat ! Very friable nearly stacked it a couple of times holds breaking, definitely no stars :-(

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ultrasaurus

Grade: 6c ***
(Hidden Quarry)

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