Rockfax Description
The line up the buttress left of a steep grassy ramp. It has some superb flowstone on the upper wall. However, the first half of the route has a good deal of loose and dusty rock. Care required. © Rockfax

FA. Mick Ward 2002

Ticklists: Portland.

rockafunked 07/Oct/17 Lead O/S

Avoid. The first half is dusty, and I managed to pull out an entire handhold. The second half is fine, but if you use the fourth (fifth?) bolt then the rope drag becomes interminable.

Andre Clarke 20/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Weagie
Hidden 25/Jun/17 TR β
Hidden 19/Jun/17 Lead O/S
takaczapka 02/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/17 Lead dog
ulbau 09/Apr/17 2nd
Hidden 26/Mar/17 Lead
eduardo 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Choosy shite at the bottom, really unpleasant. Top is terrific

with lout
Lmt 25/Mar/17 2nd dnf
with Ed
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
Hidden 14/Dec/16 Lead O/S
cdpuk 26/Nov/16 Lead O/S

Worth a star for the flowstone. Lower section very dusty and crumbly.

Geras 26/Nov/16 2nd
with Chris P
MarcinK 22/Aug/16 Lead dnf
with Piotr Slezak
Xelif 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Jen
Jen BXM S 22/Jul/16 TR O/S
James_Fletcher ?/Jun/16 Lead dnf

Set final clip but couldn't get rope into the quick draw. down climbed to rest and fell past 3 clips due to the amount of drag on the rope!

atos 08/May/16 Lead

Avoid it! Two boulders, each one the size of a medium TV, big enough to smash my skull like a nut, came off the crag when my partner was climbing it, landed next to me and rolled all the way down to the beach.

AlexD 23/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Debbie, Marti
Marti999 23/Mar/16 Lead rpt

the first 10m are in quite a poor loose and dusty state

mikehenesy 19/Mar/16 Lead

It said 5 in the guide! The start comes with free chalk, go left young man/woman, post that it's great, traditional adventurous Portland sport, fantastic. Ran out of go one away from the top out, but made it past that maillion. Now higher, newer, shinier mailion resides.

with Tim Reynolds
timreynolds 19/Mar/16 Lead

6a for sure.

bvilsue 11/Oct/15 Lead dnf

errr, turns out a maillon is not the end of the route doh! The begining is worst that a construction site. The top tufas are good fun though

with Rebeca
Hidden 15/Aug/15 2nd dog
Tru 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S
MarcinK 25/Jul/15 TR dog
with Filipe Rodrigues, Verena Schenzinger
Tall Gecko Hands ?/Jun/15 Lead dnf

It was dusty and scary and I was short on quickdraws. I never got to the flowstone, but one day I will have revenge !

Hidden 22/Mar/15 Lead dnf
rashwell ?/Mar/15 Lead
FatAz 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Natalia Binczycka
Martin Bagshaw 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
clairemathews 26/Jul/14 2nd
Lewis201 17/May/14 Lead O/S
richy85 14/Apr/14 Lead dog
with Paul
E30Adam 08/Mar/14 TR O/S
with Roberto Isasa, Miles Gillespie
Katie S ?/May/13 Lead
tcn_2002 20/Oct/12 Lead
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Mistee 09/Sep/12 2nd
with Lewis Wilson, Phil
cpoad 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Kerry W
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead
Matt77 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
joshchalke 27/May/12 Lead dnf
therat 27/May/12 Lead O/S
jh123 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with Pawel Zdziarski
pawelx 12/May/12 Lead dnf

tricky near the second-last bolt. Top section is quite pumpy for Fr5+.

ThomasB ?/May/12 Lead O/S
harold walmsley 04/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Grade is correct in difficulty terms but does not tell the whole story. Felt very adventurous and serious. Dirty and dubious rock in first half then spaced bolts as the rock improves and steepens. Stars depend on how much the first half puts you off. I, perversely, quite enjoyed it

with Paul Evans
catblack 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Bottom half is a bit dusty and loose, top section could do with a clean. There are some nice moves on the top section and a little pumpy fot 5+! a long extender useful for a bolt half way up to prevent rope drag

Andrew Barker 02/Apr/12 Lead β
Hidden ?/Apr/12 Lead
Paula Ryan ?/Apr/12 Lead
with Robin Brooke
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Mar/12 Lead dog
Psych ?/Mar/12 Lead dog
PAJames ??/2012 -
Hidden 19/Nov/11 Lead β
Danny Crump 23/Oct/11 Lead
gibsond 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
conorjclarke 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S

sandy deathtrap start, sandbag "5+" finish

with Rhona Barr
risby 16/Oct/11 TR dnf

Dusty, dirty, chossy start. Block came off in my hand. Nice but challenging flowstone middle. V awkward at the top. Lovely day though.

scottski 05/Oct/11 Lead O/S

terrible lower loose dusty section not 5+ poor bolt placement halfway up leads to drag on rope. Upper section nice. But spolied by lower section

with A. Baguley
Hidden ?/Oct/11 Lead
andybirtwistle 24/Sep/11 Lead

No way is this 5+!Dusty and sort of loose on the bottom then a clay bank before exceent but dusty tufa Has to be 6a at least for the danger value

tom.ireson 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Paul Ackland
will_benfold 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Miles
kingborris 20/Jul/11 Lead O/S
bigdan050 12/Jul/11 TR

and got to climb it again to clip the lower off after sand-bagging tosh !! sorry mate.

with Tosh
bigdan050 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S

one of the most varied routes ive ever done, lost of different climbing, sustained and quite pumped by the top. loved it

with Tosh
Hidden 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 07/Jul/11 Lead rpt

bottom half is coming off in chunks, but fun. Midsection is muddy. Top section just about makes up for the bottom.

Cheese Monkey 07/Jul/11 Lead O/S

V pumpy for 5+. Terrible bottom section. Top half just makes up for it

Joe Black 29/Jun/11 Lead dog

Fell dude to a huge chunk of rock falling out and almost squishing my belayer.. poor quality rock at bottom and serious rope drag at top

TRFrost 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with D. Laithwaite
tomdude 10/Jun/11 Lead O/S

bottom half, yuck! top half ok

with joe dowsett
fildac 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Ben Harper 15/May/11 Lead O/S

didnt really enjoy this one

with Soph Nunn
gidmord 15/May/11 Lead dnf

This didn't go too well

with Tom Horton
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead dnf
Mike Green 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
zdenek strycek 16/Apr/11 Lead
KarolinaKlos 16/Apr/11 Lead β
KarolinaKlos 16/Apr/11 Lead dog
Slarti B 03/Apr/11 AltLd dog

Natalio left quick draws on bolts, hence Alt leads! No fall, but rest before final few metres.

with Natalio
natalio 03/Apr/11 Lead dog

Got to the top out, after 1 rest. Couldn't clip the rope to the quickdraw on the topout and fell. Quite long runout between last bolt and topout.

with Stephen
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Solo
Jim Gaffney 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with George Swadling
marcb 20/Mar/11 Lead O/S

75% ran out of qds

with Sophie Skellern, Kyle Goslan, Michael Moore
Charlie Evans 09/Jan/11 Lead dog

spooked! not the 5+ experience I'd hoped for after a break

Ceridwen 09/Jan/11 Lead rpt
Sophie Nunn 09/Jan/11 Lead O/S
brian watson 09/Jan/11 Lead rpt
with anne marie sheppard
roharmon88 ??/2011 -
Hawkscry ??/2011 -
MichaelGallimore ??/2011 Lead dog

Climbed this last year- didn't have the mentioned problems with rope drag or loose rock. I did use a skinny 9.1mm single, and long quickdraws on most of the bolts. It's impossible to see your leader past about 10m. Very enjoyable climb, especially the last section- just wear a helmet and be cautious.

with MikeR
Ian Bell ??/2011 Lead dog
james.pilbeam ??/2011 Lead O/S
patsaunders ??/2011 Lead
Hidden 21/Nov/10 2nd rpt
jas128 28/Oct/10 TR dog
Hidden 28/Oct/10 Lead O/S
George Nichols 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Too cool for school. Really varied rock and good flow, but long and exposed.

s.tietz 10/Oct/10 Lead dnf

Made it half way to the last bolt before lower off. (6 bolts up?) The flowstone section at the top is the crux, eh?

benscarter 25/Sep/10 Lead dog

The horror....... look out for the loose block on the first break.

with Simon Forman
DrGav 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Bottom section not so nice rock but it improves with height

with Dave
tomB 04/Sep/10 Lead dog
with Juliette
Montecore ?/Aug/10 Lead dnf

Backed off 2 clips from top. Couldn't hear belayer & she couldn't hear me

Kap 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/10 TR dnf
Ceridwen 08/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Andy
barfani chita 15/May/10 TR dog
with Saurus
martin one 08/May/10 Lead O/S
with Eric
eroica64 17/Apr/10 TR

A climb of two halves.

with Dave Thompson, Lawrence King
tomsmartacus 07/Apr/10 Lead dog

Hard top section for sure, got pumped and hard to clip lower off.

IAmAStone ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Tom Ramsden
Hidden 13/Mar/10 2nd
Harphead 06/Feb/10 Lead O/S
with Spicerman
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
danieleaston ??/2010 Lead
Wil Treasure ??/2010 Lead
LukeyG ??/2010 Lead dnf
Big Steve C 18/Oct/09 Lead
with Sammi
mark4344 30/Sep/09 Lead dnf

v. strenuous and under graded at 5+. bolts definately too spaced at top. As last climb of day could not commit to finish last bolt and belay. also loose start and belayer out of view.

with Andreas
Hidden 30/Sep/09 2nd dnf
drewclimber 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S

an awesome climb but the bolts are so far spaced that if your not climbing comfotable at 6a-6a+ and take a fall your most definately gonna get smashed up(WATCH OUT FOR MICK WARDS ROUTES) he bolted a fair few routes and gets a bit tight with his bolting (NOT GOOD FOR CLIMBERS WHO ARE PUSHING THERE GRADE)

with gordon
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
RFWilkie 20/Sep/09 Lead dog
michael burrows 13/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Lallylandslider 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S
matthewjames 06/Sep/09 Lead dog
with Alex Ghee
Kerm ?/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 02/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Chris Harding 14/Jun/09 Lead dog

Was v tired by the time did this one and got very pumped. The flow stone is lovely top climb on got holds.

with Dave Stevenson
Ed Shaw 06/Jun/09 Lead β
Hidden 02/Jun/09 Lead
wi11 17/May/09 Lead RP
with Chris Gee
tigertim 03/May/09 Lead O/S
with Polly Withers
jonathan watt 25/Apr/09 Lead dnf

Got massively pumped at end and fell while at lower off bolts with rope pulled in - big fall!!

andyfeds 12/Apr/09 Lead dog

Must remember to carry a camera next time for the brilliant view of climbers on "Pregnant Pause"

Hidden 04/Apr/09 Lead RP
Andy Nicholson ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Marilyn
AsleepOnBelay 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S

A climb of two halves, the first, dusty, juggy and a bit loose. The second part is all flowstone loveliness. Extend the clip after the chalky bit, after which it's difficult to communicate with your belayer.

with Sarah Davis
Hidden 22/Mar/09 2nd
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Marti999 17/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Harry Massey
briar4012 17/Feb/09 TR dog
with Marti
Jane Weir ??/2009 Lead
Alex More ??/2009 Lead
Thinker01 ??/2009 -
MarkRyder 07/Dec/08 Lead RP
with Rich
rd20 16/Nov/08 Lead rpt
with Martin
Hidden 29/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Oct/08 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Oct/08 TR O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/08 Lead O/S
leigh 28/Sep/08 Lead dog

Had rest before clipping lower off

with Ed
jbulger 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Chris Mock
Tommy Harris ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S

bit chalky at start but ok towards the top...very easy climbing

with Matt Drain
FrostyWebb 25/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Julie
Hidden 29/Jun/08 Lead dog
Hidden 28/Jun/08 Lead dog
Hidden 22/Jun/08 Lead dnf
Ant Mace 07/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Lloyd Cowdry
nadeem ?/Jun/08 Lead dnf

Scared so i was. Fell off on top bolt.

with Charlie Patterson
Hidden 03/May/08 Lead O/S
will6459 03/May/08 Lead O/S
with Andy Hext
Ed Babs 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Marq 23/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Ruth Creamer
Hidden 05/Apr/08 2nd
Neil Tucker ?/Apr/08 Lead
with Andras Pinter
gravity 09/Feb/08 TR dnf

a bit dusty and crumbly

with Joff
Hidden ?/Jan/08 Lead
Tom Heslam ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Ed Heslam
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 21/Dec/07 TR
topsyturvy 21/Dec/07 Lead O/S
topsyturvy 21/Dec/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Nov/07 Lead dog
tobydunford 17/Nov/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Oct/07 -
Hidden ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
general 21/Jul/07 Lead dnf
with Rampant, David Morse
Hidden 08/Apr/07 2nd O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Darragh ?/Apr/07 -
Will Homoky 17/Feb/07 Lead O/S

Top section is a sting in the tail.

with Tom Hindson
clipskipper 03/Feb/07 Lead O/S

Gorgeous sustained flowstone in the top half; bottom half chalky, dusty laybacks.

with JustWicked
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden 10/Sep/06 Lead O/S
vet 19/Aug/06 TR O/S

Yb lowers off, before steep top section

with Nick
Bry ?/Aug/06 Lead
with Tom Brittain
MontyH 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S

rope was always going to be too short, 50m so we rigged a hanging belay and paul got his go.

with Paul Milton
Hidden 21/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Feb/06 2nd
trevor macalonan 11/Feb/06 Lead dnf
with Tim
lukea 27/Dec/05 Lead O/S
with Olaf
michael burrows 01/Oct/05 Lead O/S
pete johnson 17/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Rob
JPGR ?/Sep/05 Lead
with Andy
tobydunford 15/Aug/05 Lead dog
with Dom Sellers
Somerset swede basher 15/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Toby Dunford
Hidden ??/1998 -
10 users have this on their wishlist
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 48
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set