26m.

Rockfax Description
The line up the buttress left of a steep grassy ramp. It has some superb flowstone on the upper wall. However, the first half of the route has a good deal of loose and dusty rock. Care required. © Rockfax

FA. Mick Ward 2002

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

UserDateNotes
stow 22 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Crapola - plenty of better routes around. Give it a miss.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Crapola - plenty of better routes around. Give it a miss.
Michael Simpson 6 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I didn't clip the bolt on the left at the start of the flow stone and the rope drag was still bad. cliping the last 2 bolts was the hardest part of the climb. Perhaps my large diameter well used (therefore slighty hairy outer) rope didnt help but I think the barrel shaped middle of the route will always have the potential to cause drag and this needs to be noted in the route description. There are still some loose bands of rock at the start so a loose rock symbol is needed in rockfax or mention in the route description, the belayer needs to stand to the side of the route line ( always a good idea anyway ) Because of this the route is not really suitable for inexperienced climbers: it is not a straightforward clip-up
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I didn't clip the bolt on the left at the start of the flow stone and the rope drag was still bad. cliping the last 2 bolts was the hardest part of the climb. Perhaps my large diameter well used (therefore slighty hairy outer) rope didnt help but I think the barrel shaped middle of the route will always have the potential to cause drag and this needs to be noted in the route description. There are still some loose bands of rock at the start so a loose rock symbol is needed in rockfax or mention in the route description, the belayer needs to stand to the side of the route line ( always a good idea anyway ) Because of this the route is not really suitable for inexperienced climbers: it is not a straightforward clip-up
Bry 24 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I give it a star! OK, there is loads of dust on the first half of the route, but the moves are ok. I only found one sizeable loose block, which was easily avoided. The flowstone in the upper section is great! Admittedly, going for the lower off felt a bit run out, but I thought this was just me being a ponce (the jugs are all there). Rope drag was certainly not so bad that I couldn't clip. Perhaps the problem is that people expect something safe and easy from a grade 5+ sport route. I mean, for instance, being out of sight of your belayer is not unusual in climbing, is it? Nor are loose holds or having to extend runners. But granted, these are not so common on sport routes, so maybe herein lies the issue. Personally, I would not describe this route as dangerous.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I give it a star! OK, there is loads of dust on the first half of the route, but the moves are ok. I only found one sizeable loose block, which was easily avoided. The flowstone in the upper section is great! Admittedly, going for the lower off felt a bit run out, but I thought this was just me being a ponce (the jugs are all there). Rope drag was certainly not so bad that I couldn't clip. Perhaps the problem is that people expect something safe and easy from a grade 5+ sport route. I mean, for instance, being out of sight of your belayer is not unusual in climbing, is it? Nor are loose holds or having to extend runners. But granted, these are not so common on sport routes, so maybe herein lies the issue. Personally, I would not describe this route as dangerous.
Sami Mandeel 10 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: No, that's what solvent abuse is about. Climbing is different things to different people. For some, speed soloing just isn't enough (see http://www.ebaumsworld.com/videos/fastrockclimb.html - he's dead now by the way). Some prefer to stay within their comfort zone. Others like to push themselves whilst maintaining an appropriate level of safety (still an element of danger). Imagine an entire island made of superb limestone...Mr Muscle and a hanky anyone? No thanks, I'll have a go at "Go With The Flow" (http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=3460).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No, that's what solvent abuse is about. Climbing is different things to different people. For some, speed soloing just isn't enough (see http://www.ebaumsworld.com/videos/fastrockclimb.html - he's dead now by the way). Some prefer to stay within their comfort zone. Others like to push themselves whilst maintaining an appropriate level of safety (still an element of danger). Imagine an entire island made of superb limestone...Mr Muscle and a hanky anyone? No thanks, I'll have a go at "Go With The Flow" (http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=3460).
nick w 3 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: pile of choss stay clear.wear helmets anywhere near
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: pile of choss stay clear.wear helmets anywhere near
Sash.C 3 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Ponce? who still uses that word?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ponce? who still uses that word?
Furzy Sleight 10 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: You lot are all moaning ponces - did this route today and thought it was excellent from top to bottom. In fact so good i did it twice!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: You lot are all moaning ponces - did this route today and thought it was excellent from top to bottom. In fact so good i did it twice!
O. C. Curmudgeon 24 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Wish I'd read this before suggesting trying the route. I was belaying when the leader stepped on a large block near the first bolt which came away and headed straight for me. Luckily I saw it coming and managed to leap out the way. We didn't bother with the rest of the climb after that.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wish I'd read this before suggesting trying the route. I was belaying when the leader stepped on a large block near the first bolt which came away and headed straight for me. Luckily I saw it coming and managed to leap out the way. We didn't bother with the rest of the climb after that.
Fidget 19 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with most of these comments (wish I'd read them first) - this route is dangerous, and no way worth 2 stars. It's very dusty and crumbly for the lower half (especially the first two bolts), as parts came away in my hand I had to be careful to drop them over to my left, away from my belayer! There's a large dislodged block just above and to the right of the first bolt (about 50cm long) which you have to be careful not to step on. ALSO - this route is longer than 26m. I've got a 50m rope, and reached the half way point with 2 bolts and the lower off still to go, so had to lower off before having a go at the flowstone section.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree with most of these comments (wish I'd read them first) - this route is dangerous, and no way worth 2 stars. It's very dusty and crumbly for the lower half (especially the first two bolts), as parts came away in my hand I had to be careful to drop them over to my left, away from my belayer! There's a large dislodged block just above and to the right of the first bolt (about 50cm long) which you have to be careful not to step on. ALSO - this route is longer than 26m. I've got a 50m rope, and reached the half way point with 2 bolts and the lower off still to go, so had to lower off before having a go at the flowstone section.
steve taylor 29 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Brian - I'm working (with Ben Stokes and Jim Kimber) on the CC guide, not the Rockfax! I'm as surprised about the 2 stars as you are.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brian - I'm working (with Ben Stokes and Jim Kimber) on the CC guide, not the Rockfax! I'm as surprised about the 2 stars as you are.
Phil Murray 25 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: YUK! Wear a helmet! I know what real rock is like - i've been trad climbing for 12 years - but i backed off this chosspile at bolt number 2. Massive dangerous loose blocks, and a centimetre (i could exaggerate but won't) of dust / powder / rubble on each ledge makes this a very grim start to a route. It really, really needs cleaning. At present i would only do it if my 2nd came up to halfway (due to no visibility of high section from the ground) for a hanging belay. Then, the undoubtedly fine flowstone at the top could be fully enjoyed! A shame cos i was looking forward to the flowstone higher up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: YUK! Wear a helmet! I know what real rock is like - i've been trad climbing for 12 years - but i backed off this chosspile at bolt number 2. Massive dangerous loose blocks, and a centimetre (i could exaggerate but won't) of dust / powder / rubble on each ledge makes this a very grim start to a route. It really, really needs cleaning. At present i would only do it if my 2nd came up to halfway (due to no visibility of high section from the ground) for a hanging belay. Then, the undoubtedly fine flowstone at the top could be fully enjoyed! A shame cos i was looking forward to the flowstone higher up.
Phil Anderson 11 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: An awful lot of loose rock and general choss in the lower half, followed by reasonable potential for injury in the upper half due to the bulge make this a fairly atypical sport climb. I'm afraid to say I backed off it from about where the flowstone starts getting interesting.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An awful lot of loose rock and general choss in the lower half, followed by reasonable potential for injury in the upper half due to the bulge make this a fairly atypical sport climb. I'm afraid to say I backed off it from about where the flowstone starts getting interesting.
Ben Stokes 27 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: "It is most likely for these reasons that this route wasn't bolted before 2002..." Agreed!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: "It is most likely for these reasons that this route wasn't bolted before 2002..." Agreed!
Sami Mandeel 27 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Perhaps my comment too was a little misleading. I wasn't blaming the FA for my partners poor ropework as such. But I must say I've never had to use a sling on a bolt before (a long quickdraw would not be long enough). Saying that, we are relatively inexperienced sport climbers - this is something we'll certainly look out for in future. I just think the nature of the rock alone make this one not worth bothering with. Combine that with the friction and lack of visibilty as a result of the bulge and that's even more of a reason. It is most likely for these reasons that this route wasn't bolted before 2002...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Perhaps my comment too was a little misleading. I wasn't blaming the FA for my partners poor ropework as such. But I must say I've never had to use a sling on a bolt before (a long quickdraw would not be long enough). Saying that, we are relatively inexperienced sport climbers - this is something we'll certainly look out for in future. I just think the nature of the rock alone make this one not worth bothering with. Combine that with the friction and lack of visibilty as a result of the bulge and that's even more of a reason. It is most likely for these reasons that this route wasn't bolted before 2002...
Ben Stokes 27 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Sorry, my comment was a little misleading. I agree the rock in the lower half may be considered as loose, but to blame the FA for your partners poor ropework around the bulge was a little unfair...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sorry, my comment was a little misleading. I agree the rock in the lower half may be considered as loose, but to blame the FA for your partners poor ropework around the bulge was a little unfair...
Sami Mandeel 27 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I beg to differ. I've never seen such bad rock as can be found on the first half. There's litteraly inch-deep piles of dust up there, and even where the rock becomes flowstone, there's at least one DEADLY piece of rock that will happily come out. When was the last time you climbed it Ben?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I beg to differ. I've never seen such bad rock as can be found on the first half. There's litteraly inch-deep piles of dust up there, and even where the rock becomes flowstone, there's at least one DEADLY piece of rock that will happily come out. When was the last time you climbed it Ben?
Ben Stokes 27 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I think the rock wasn't your problem; however your poor ropework was.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think the rock wasn't your problem; however your poor ropework was.
Sami Mandeel 27 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Made the mistake of trying this yesterday. This route is DANGEROUS! The first part of the route has some appalling stone, which literally crumbles away under your hands and feet. I pulled out a chunk of rock about the size of my head (pretty big). The rock does improve a lot after the bulge, but there were still some dodgy sizeable chunks about. Even more dangerous is the bulge itself. The belayer can't see the climber for quite a significant portion, and as the climb is so high, this makes communication especially difficult. My partner got to the LO point and was screaming for slack, which I was paying out by the bucket-load, but there was so much friction in the system that he simply couldn't pull it through. He ended up taking a tremendous fall head-first. Luckily I had the initiative to jump down the side of the hill (where all the green shrubbery is) and stop him from falling a further 4-5 metres. Had I not done this he probably would have hit the bulge face-first (at this height there was a lot of stretch in the rope). Take my advice and don't bother with this one, but if you must be sure to use a long sling in conjuction with your quickdraw at around the 6/7th bolt to keep things running smoothly.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Made the mistake of trying this yesterday. This route is DANGEROUS! The first part of the route has some appalling stone, which literally crumbles away under your hands and feet. I pulled out a chunk of rock about the size of my head (pretty big). The rock does improve a lot after the bulge, but there were still some dodgy sizeable chunks about. Even more dangerous is the bulge itself. The belayer can't see the climber for quite a significant portion, and as the climb is so high, this makes communication especially difficult. My partner got to the LO point and was screaming for slack, which I was paying out by the bucket-load, but there was so much friction in the system that he simply couldn't pull it through. He ended up taking a tremendous fall head-first. Luckily I had the initiative to jump down the side of the hill (where all the green shrubbery is) and stop him from falling a further 4-5 metres. Had I not done this he probably would have hit the bulge face-first (at this height there was a lot of stretch in the rope). Take my advice and don't bother with this one, but if you must be sure to use a long sling in conjuction with your quickdraw at around the 6/7th bolt to keep things running smoothly.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 13 Sep Lead O/S
Francescaparratt 13 Sep 2nd O/S
Katsmiff 26 Aug Lead O/S First route of the day. The first half was like a horrid dust storm with holds breaking off. The second half was pleasant climbing.
First route of the day. The first half was like a horrid dust storm with holds breaking off. The second half was pleasant climbing.
Rob Laird 26 Aug Lead O/S Although the top was good, the bottom section was very loose
Although the top was good, the bottom section was very loose
Ron Yeadon 29 Jun Lead
frankielu 21 Jun Lead
Elman 10 Jun TR O/S
Elman 10 Jun Lead RP
Dexter JW 9 Jun Lead O/S Very dusty bottom, probably the crux
Very dusty bottom, probably the crux
FrancescaLCBellasis 9 Jun TR
bryan61 9 Jun Lead rpt did this years ago, shame about the dusty, loose bottom half,[worse than I remember] really good climbing on the top half,
with Max
did this years ago, shame about the dusty, loose bottom half,[worse than I remember] really good climbing on the top half,
with Max
Andy_Pricee 25 May Lead O/S
pelvoux 5 May TR O/S
with Chris Bull
with Chris Bull
Philoosh 21 Apr Lead O/S
MadVlad 20 Apr Lead O/S 50m rope too short...
with Khalil
50m rope too short...
with Khalil
Stephen Maginn 14 Apr Lead O/S
Paddy Bos Coe 14 Apr Lead rpt Lovely climbing on great holds once you get through the chossy stuff.
Lovely climbing on great holds once you get through the chossy stuff.
RangerMcFreindly 7 Apr Lead O/S Uneasy start followed by some nice flowstone!
with Beata , Krzysztof
Uneasy start followed by some nice flowstone!
with Beata , Krzysztof
kcichy ?Apr Lead β
ChristyCole 12 Jan Lead dnf Rope drag
Rope drag
AF Webb 12 Jan Lead β
Rich Long 17 Nov, 2018 Lead dog
with Jeff Driscoll
with Jeff Driscoll
ssutton 1 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
KieshaRice 17 Jun, 2018 Lead dog Had an old guidebook and was looking for a nice, easy, fun warm up... wrong grade and definitely doesn't deserve 2 stars. Has 3 "sections": chossy,dusty mantles (my partner threw a jug at my head and I almost blinded myself with sand- not ideal); nice laybacks; and then smooth flowstone pinchiness which are ok but would be better with less pump haha. The belay is a bit steep and it becomes difficult to see/communicate with your partner after a while with the roar of the sea in the back ground. I might just be a wuss to be honest as this was my first longish lead outdoors.
Had an old guidebook and was looking for a nice, easy, fun warm up... wrong grade and definitely doesn't deserve 2 stars. Has 3 "sections": chossy,dusty mantles (my partner threw a jug at my head and I almost blinded myself with sand- not ideal); nice laybacks; and then smooth flowstone pinchiness which are ok but would be better with less pump haha. The belay is a bit steep and it becomes difficult to see/communicate with your partner after a while with the roar of the sea in the back ground. I might just be a wuss to be honest as this was my first longish lead outdoors.
lukevf 20 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Raunchy Rory 20 May, 2018 Lead O/S
with lukevf
with lukevf
dmoir 11 May, 2018 Lead O/S
with Ben Harper
with Ben Harper
Phippy 7 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Q.Estelles 5 May, 2018 Lead O/S
guy127917 14 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
danieleaston 17 Mar, 2018 Lead 50m rope too short
50m rope too short
Paddy Bos Coe 8 Mar, 2018 Lead β
Dale.I ??, 2018 -
rockafunked 7 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S Avoid. The first half is dusty, and I managed to pull out an entire handhold. The second half is fine, but if you use the fourth (fifth?) bolt then the rope drag becomes interminable.
Avoid. The first half is dusty, and I managed to pull out an entire handhold. The second half is fine, but if you use the fourth (fifth?) bolt then the rope drag becomes interminable.
Andre Clarke 20 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with Weagie
with Weagie
Hidden 25 Jun, 2017 TR β
Hidden 19 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
takaczapka 2 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Apr, 2017 Lead dog
ulbau 9 Apr, 2017 2nd
Hidden 26 Mar, 2017 Lead
eduardo 25 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S Choosy shite at the bottom, really unpleasant. Top is terrific
with Lmt
Choosy shite at the bottom, really unpleasant. Top is terrific
with Lmt
Lmt 25 Mar, 2017 2nd dnf
with eduardo
with eduardo
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 Lead
Hidden 14 Dec, 2016 Lead O/S
cdpuk 26 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S Worth a star for the flowstone. Lower section very dusty and crumbly.
with Geras
Worth a star for the flowstone. Lower section very dusty and crumbly.
with Geras
Geras 26 Nov, 2016 2nd
with cdpuk
with cdpuk
MarcinK 22 Aug, 2016 Lead dnf
with Piotr Slezak
with Piotr Slezak
Xelif 23 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
jenjenshirlaw 22 Jul, 2016 TR O/S
James_Fletcher ?Jun, 2016 Lead dnf Set final clip but couldn't get rope into the quick draw. down climbed to rest and fell past 3 clips due to the amount of drag on the rope!
Set final clip but couldn't get rope into the quick draw. down climbed to rest and fell past 3 clips due to the amount of drag on the rope!
AlexD 23 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
with Debbie, Marti999
with Debbie, Marti999
Marti999 23 Mar, 2016 Lead rpt the first 10m are in quite a poor loose and dusty state
the first 10m are in quite a poor loose and dusty state
mikehenesy 19 Mar, 2016 Lead It said 5 in the guide! The start comes with free chalk, go left young man/woman, post that it's great, traditional adventurous Portland sport, fantastic. Ran out of go one away from the top out, but made it past that maillion. Now higher, newer, shinier mailion resides.
with Tim Reynolds
It said 5 in the guide! The start comes with free chalk, go left young man/woman, post that it's great, traditional adventurous Portland sport, fantastic. Ran out of go one away from the top out, but made it past that maillion. Now higher, newer, shinier mailion resides.
with Tim Reynolds
timreynolds 19 Mar, 2016 Lead 6a for sure.
6a for sure.
bvilsue 11 Oct, 2015 Lead dnf errr, turns out a maillon is not the end of the route doh! The begining is worst that a construction site. The top tufas are good fun though
with Rebeca
errr, turns out a maillon is not the end of the route doh! The begining is worst that a construction site. The top tufas are good fun though
with Rebeca
Hidden 15 Aug, 2015 2nd dog
Tru 1 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
MarcinK 25 Jul, 2015 TR dog
with Filipe Rodrigues, Verena Schenzinger
with Filipe Rodrigues, Verena Schenzinger
Tall Gecko Hands ?Jun, 2015 Lead dnf It was dusty and scary and I was short on quickdraws. I never got to the flowstone, but one day I will have revenge !
It was dusty and scary and I was short on quickdraws. I never got to the flowstone, but one day I will have revenge !
Hidden 22 Mar, 2015 Lead dnf
rashwell ?Mar, 2015 Lead
FatAz 9 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with Natalia Binczycka
with Natalia Binczycka
Martin Bagshaw 26 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
clairemathews 26 Jul, 2014 2nd
Lewis201 17 May, 2014 Lead O/S
richy85 14 Apr, 2014 Lead dog
with Paul
with Paul
E30Adam 8 Mar, 2014 TR O/S
with Roberto Isasa, Miles Gillespie
with Roberto Isasa, Miles Gillespie
Katie S ?May, 2013 Lead
tcn_2002 20 Oct, 2012 Lead
Hidden 29 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Sep, 2012 Lead rpt
Mistee 9 Sep, 2012 2nd
with Lewis Wilson, 98%monkey
with Lewis Wilson, 98%monkey
cpoad 26 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with Kerry W
with Kerry W
Hidden 15 Jul, 2012 Lead
Matt77 1 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
joshchalke 27 May, 2012 Lead dnf
therat 27 May, 2012 Lead O/S
jh123 12 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with Pawel Zdziarski
with Pawel Zdziarski
pawelx 12 May, 2012 Lead dnf tricky near the second-last bolt. Top section is quite pumpy for Fr5+.
tricky near the second-last bolt. Top section is quite pumpy for Fr5+.
ThomasB ?May, 2012 Lead O/S
harold walmsley 4 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S Grade is correct in difficulty terms but does not tell the whole story. Felt very adventurous and serious. Dirty and dubious rock in first half then spaced bolts as the rock improves and steepens. Stars depend on how much the first half puts you off. I, perversely, quite enjoyed it
with Paul Evans
Grade is correct in difficulty terms but does not tell the whole story. Felt very adventurous and serious. Dirty and dubious rock in first half then spaced bolts as the rock improves and steepens. Stars depend on how much the first half puts you off. I, perversely, quite enjoyed it
with Paul Evans
catblack 2 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S Bottom half is a bit dusty and loose, top section could do with a clean. There are some nice moves on the top section and a little pumpy fot 5+! a long extender useful for a bolt half way up to prevent rope drag
Bottom half is a bit dusty and loose, top section could do with a clean. There are some nice moves on the top section and a little pumpy fot 5+! a long extender useful for a bolt half way up to prevent rope drag
Andrew Barker 2 Apr, 2012 Lead β
Hidden ?Apr, 2012 Lead
Hidden ?Apr, 2012 Lead
Hidden 24 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 Mar, 2012 Lead dog
Psych ?Mar, 2012 Lead dog
PAJames ??, 2012 -
Hidden 19 Nov, 2011 Lead β
Danny Crump 23 Oct, 2011 Lead
with LiL Saz
with LiL Saz
gibsond 16 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
with risby
with risby
conorjclarke 16 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S sandy deathtrap start, sandbag "5+" finish
with Rhona Barr
sandy deathtrap start, sandbag "5+" finish
with Rhona Barr
risby 16 Oct, 2011 TR dnf Dusty, dirty, chossy start. Block came off in my hand. Nice but challenging flowstone middle. V awkward at the top. Lovely day though.
with gibsond
Dusty, dirty, chossy start. Block came off in my hand. Nice but challenging flowstone middle. V awkward at the top. Lovely day though.
with gibsond
scottski 5 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S terrible lower loose dusty section not 5+ poor bolt placement halfway up leads to drag on rope. Upper section nice. But spolied by lower section
with A. Baguley
terrible lower loose dusty section not 5+ poor bolt placement halfway up leads to drag on rope. Upper section nice. But spolied by lower section
with A. Baguley
Hidden ?Oct, 2011 Lead
andybirtwistle 24 Sep, 2011 Lead No way is this 5+!Dusty and sort of loose on the bottom then a clay bank before exceent but dusty tufa Has to be 6a at least for the danger value
with odox
No way is this 5+!Dusty and sort of loose on the bottom then a clay bank before exceent but dusty tufa Has to be 6a at least for the danger value
with odox
tom.ireson 3 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with Paul Ackland
with Paul Ackland
will_benfold 24 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with Miles
with Miles
kingborris 20 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
bigdan050 12 Jul, 2011 TR and got to climb it again to clip the lower off after sand-bagging tosh !! sorry mate.
and got to climb it again to clip the lower off after sand-bagging tosh !! sorry mate.
bigdan050 11 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S one of the most varied routes ive ever done, lost of different climbing, sustained and quite pumped by the top. loved it
one of the most varied routes ive ever done, lost of different climbing, sustained and quite pumped by the top. loved it
Hidden 9 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 7 Jul, 2011 Lead rpt bottom half is coming off in chunks, but fun. Midsection is muddy. Top section just about makes up for the bottom.
bottom half is coming off in chunks, but fun. Midsection is muddy. Top section just about makes up for the bottom.
Cheese Monkey 7 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S V pumpy for 5+. Terrible bottom section. Top half just makes up for it
V pumpy for 5+. Terrible bottom section. Top half just makes up for it
Joe Black 29 Jun, 2011 Lead dog Fell dude to a huge chunk of rock falling out and almost squishing my belayer.. poor quality rock at bottom and serious rope drag at top
Fell dude to a huge chunk of rock falling out and almost squishing my belayer.. poor quality rock at bottom and serious rope drag at top
TRFrost 11 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with D. Laithwaite
with D. Laithwaite
tomdude 10 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S bottom half, yuck! top half ok
with joe dowsett
bottom half, yuck! top half ok
with joe dowsett
fildac 3 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Ben Harper 15 May, 2011 Lead O/S didnt really enjoy this one
didnt really enjoy this one
gidmord 15 May, 2011 Lead dnf This didn't go too well
with Tom Horton
This didn't go too well
with Tom Horton
Hidden 24 Apr, 2011 Lead
Hidden 23 Apr, 2011 Lead dnf
Mike Green 16 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
zdenek strycek 16 Apr, 2011 Lead
KarolinaKlos 16 Apr, 2011 Lead β
KarolinaKlos 16 Apr, 2011 Lead dog
Slarti B 3 Apr, 2011 AltLd dog Natalio left quick draws on bolts, hence Alt leads! No fall, but rest before final few metres.
with natalio
Natalio left quick draws on bolts, hence Alt leads! No fall, but rest before final few metres.
with natalio
natalio 3 Apr, 2011 Lead dog Got to the top out, after 1 rest. Couldn't clip the rope to the quickdraw on the topout and fell. Quite long runout between last bolt and topout.
Got to the top out, after 1 rest. Couldn't clip the rope to the quickdraw on the topout and fell. Quite long runout between last bolt and topout.
Hidden 27 Mar, 2011 Solo
Jim Gaffney 27 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
with George Swadling
with George Swadling
marcb 20 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S 75% ran out of qds
with Sophie Skellern, Goslander, Michael Moore
75% ran out of qds
with Sophie Skellern, Goslander, Michael Moore
Charlie Evans 9 Jan, 2011 Lead dog spooked! not the 5+ experience I'd hoped for after a break
spooked! not the 5+ experience I'd hoped for after a break
Ceridwen 9 Jan, 2011 Lead rpt
Sophie Nunn 9 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S
brian watson 9 Jan, 2011 Lead rpt
with anne marie sheppard
with anne marie sheppard
roharmon88 ??, 2011 -
Hawkscry ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead dog
Ian Bell ??, 2011 Lead dog
james.pilbeam ??, 2011 Lead O/S
patsaunders ??, 2011 Lead
Hidden 21 Nov, 2010 2nd rpt
Hidden 28 Oct, 2010 TR dog
Hidden 28 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
George Nichols 10 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S Too cool for school. Really varied rock and good flow, but long and exposed.
with s.tietz
Too cool for school. Really varied rock and good flow, but long and exposed.
with s.tietz
s.tietz 10 Oct, 2010 Lead dnf Made it half way to the last bolt before lower off. (6 bolts up?) The flowstone section at the top is the crux, eh?
Made it half way to the last bolt before lower off. (6 bolts up?) The flowstone section at the top is the crux, eh?
benscarter 25 Sep, 2010 Lead dog The horror....... look out for the loose block on the first break.
with Simon Forman
The horror....... look out for the loose block on the first break.
with Simon Forman
DrGav 25 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S Bottom section not so nice rock but it improves with height
with Pan Ron
Bottom section not so nice rock but it improves with height
with Pan Ron
tomB 4 Sep, 2010 Lead dog
with Juliette
with Juliette
Montecore ?Aug, 2010 Lead dnf Backed off 2 clips from top. Couldn't hear belayer & she couldn't hear me
Backed off 2 clips from top. Couldn't hear belayer & she couldn't hear me
Kap 10 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Jul, 2010 TR dnf
Ceridwen 8 Jul, 2010 Lead rpt
with Andy
with Andy
barfani chita 15 May, 2010 TR dog
with Saurus
with Saurus
martin one 8 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with Eric
with Eric
eroica64 17 Apr, 2010 TR A climb of two halves.
with Dave Thompson, Lawrence King
A climb of two halves.
with Dave Thompson, Lawrence King
Hidden 7 Apr, 2010 Lead dog
IAmAStone ?Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with Tom Ramsden
with Tom Ramsden
Hidden 13 Mar, 2010 2nd
Harphead 6 Feb, 2010 Lead O/S
with Spicerman
with Spicerman
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead O/S
danieleaston ??, 2010 Lead
Wil Treasure ??, 2010 Lead
LukeyG ??, 2010 Lead dnf
Big Steve C 18 Oct, 2009 Lead
with Sammi
with Sammi
mark4344 30 Sep, 2009 Lead dnf v. strenuous and under graded at 5+. bolts definately too spaced at top. As last climb of day could not commit to finish last bolt and belay. also loose start and belayer out of view.
with Andreas
v. strenuous and under graded at 5+. bolts definately too spaced at top. As last climb of day could not commit to finish last bolt and belay. also loose start and belayer out of view.
with Andreas
Hidden 30 Sep, 2009 2nd dnf
drewclimber 26 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S an awesome climb but the bolts are so far spaced that if your not climbing comfotable at 6a-6a+ and take a fall your most definately gonna get smashed up(WATCH OUT FOR MICK WARDS ROUTES) he bolted a fair few routes and gets a bit tight with his bolting (NOT GOOD FOR CLIMBERS WHO ARE PUSHING THERE GRADE)
an awesome climb but the bolts are so far spaced that if your not climbing comfotable at 6a-6a+ and take a fall your most definately gonna get smashed up(WATCH OUT FOR MICK WARDS ROUTES) he bolted a fair few routes and gets a bit tight with his bolting (NOT GOOD FOR CLIMBERS WHO ARE PUSHING THERE GRADE)
Hidden 26 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
RFWilkie 20 Sep, 2009 Lead dog
michael burrows 13 Sep, 2009 Lead rpt
Lallylandslider 13 Sep, 2009 2nd O/S
matthewjames 6 Sep, 2009 Lead dog
with Alex Ghee
with Alex Ghee
Kerm ?Sep, 2009 Lead
Hidden 2 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
Chris Harding 14 Jun, 2009 Lead dog Was v tired by the time did this one and got very pumped. The flow stone is lovely top climb on got holds.
with Dave Stevenson
Was v tired by the time did this one and got very pumped. The flow stone is lovely top climb on got holds.
with Dave Stevenson
Ed Shaw 6 Jun, 2009 Lead β
Hidden 2 Jun, 2009 Lead
wi11 17 May, 2009 Lead RP
with Chris Gee
with Chris Gee
tigertim 3 May, 2009 Lead O/S
with Polly Withers
with Polly Withers
jonathan watt 25 Apr, 2009 Lead dnf Got massively pumped at end and fell while at lower off bolts with rope pulled in - big fall!!
Got massively pumped at end and fell while at lower off bolts with rope pulled in - big fall!!
andyfeds 12 Apr, 2009 Lead dog Must remember to carry a camera next time for the brilliant view of climbers on "Pregnant Pause"
Must remember to carry a camera next time for the brilliant view of climbers on "Pregnant Pause"
Hidden 4 Apr, 2009 Lead RP
Andy Nicholson ?Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Marilyn
with Marilyn
AsleepOnBelay 22 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S A climb of two halves, the first, dusty, juggy and a bit loose. The second part is all flowstone loveliness. Extend the clip after the chalky bit, after which it's difficult to communicate with your belayer.
with Sarah Davis
A climb of two halves, the first, dusty, juggy and a bit loose. The second part is all flowstone loveliness. Extend the clip after the chalky bit, after which it's difficult to communicate with your belayer.
with Sarah Davis
Hidden 22 Mar, 2009 2nd
Hidden 21 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
Marti999 17 Feb, 2009 Lead O/S
with Harry Massey
with Harry Massey
briar4012 17 Feb, 2009 TR dog
Jane Weir ??, 2009 Lead
Alex More ??, 2009 Lead
Thinker01 ??, 2009 -
MarkRyder 7 Dec, 2008 Lead RP
with vertigo
with vertigo
rd20 16 Nov, 2008 Lead rpt
Hidden 29 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Oct, 2008 Lead dog
Hidden ?Oct, 2008 TR O/S
Hidden 29 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
leigh 28 Sep, 2008 Lead dog Had rest before clipping lower off
with Ed
Had rest before clipping lower off
with Ed
jbulger 23 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
with Chris Mock
with Chris Mock
Tommy Harris ?Aug, 2008 Lead O/S bit chalky at start but ok towards the top...very easy climbing
with Matt Drain
bit chalky at start but ok towards the top...very easy climbing
with Matt Drain
FrostyWebb 25 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
with Julie
with Julie
Hidden 29 Jun, 2008 Lead dog
Hidden 28 Jun, 2008 Lead dog
Hidden 22 Jun, 2008 Lead dnf
Ant Mace 7 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with Lloyd Cowdry
with Lloyd Cowdry
nadeem ?Jun, 2008 Lead dnf Scared so i was. Fell off on top bolt.
with Charlie Patterson
Scared so i was. Fell off on top bolt.
with Charlie Patterson
Hidden 3 May, 2008 Lead O/S
will6459 3 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with Andy Hext
with Andy Hext
Ed Babs 26 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S
Marq 23 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S
with Ruth Creamer
with Ruth Creamer
Sut 5 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Apr, 2008 2nd
Neil Tucker ?Apr, 2008 Lead
with Andras Pinter
with Andras Pinter
gravity 9 Feb, 2008 TR dnf a bit dusty and crumbly
with Joff
a bit dusty and crumbly
with Joff
Hidden ?Jan, 2008 Lead
Tom Heslam ??, 2008 Lead O/S
with Ed Heslam
with Ed Heslam
Hidden ??, 2008 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 21 Dec, 2007 TR
topsyturvy 21 Dec, 2007 Lead O/S
topsyturvy 21 Dec, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 Nov, 2007 Lead dog
tobydunford 17 Nov, 2007 Lead rpt
Hidden 11 Oct, 2007 -
ChrisDavis ?Sep, 2007 Lead O/S
general 21 Jul, 2007 Lead dnf
with Rampant, David Morse
with Rampant, David Morse
Hidden 8 Apr, 2007 2nd O/S
dannyboy83 ?Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
Darragh ?Apr, 2007 -
Will Homoky 17 Feb, 2007 Lead O/S Top section is a sting in the tail.
with Tom Hindson
Top section is a sting in the tail.
with Tom Hindson
clipskipper 3 Feb, 2007 Lead O/S Gorgeous sustained flowstone in the top half; bottom half chalky, dusty laybacks.
with JustWicked
Gorgeous sustained flowstone in the top half; bottom half chalky, dusty laybacks.
with JustWicked
Hidden ??, 2007 -
The Jazz Butcher ??, 2007 -
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
Hidden 10 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
vet 19 Aug, 2006 TR O/S Yb lowers off, before steep top section
with Nick
Yb lowers off, before steep top section
with Nick
Bry ?Aug, 2006 Lead
with Tom Brittain
with Tom Brittain
MontyH 24 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S rope was always going to be too short, 50m so we rigged a hanging belay and paul got his go.
with Paul Milton
rope was always going to be too short, 50m so we rigged a hanging belay and paul got his go.
with Paul Milton
Hidden 21 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Feb, 2006 2nd
trevor macalonan 11 Feb, 2006 Lead dnf
lukea 27 Dec, 2005 Lead O/S
with Olaf
with Olaf
michael burrows 1 Oct, 2005 Lead O/S
with rockcat
with rockcat
pete johnson 17 Sep, 2005 Lead O/S
with Rob
with Rob
JPGR ?Sep, 2005 Lead
with Andy
with Andy
tobydunford 15 Aug, 2005 Lead dog
with Dom Sellers
with Dom Sellers
Somerset swede basher 15 Aug, 2005 Lead O/S
with Toby Dunford
with Toby Dunford
bruce ??, 1998 -
with Richard Bossons
with Richard Bossons
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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 53
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set