Rockfax Description
A major crack-line that is both strenuous and sustained. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description

FA. Tim Dunsby. Accidentally also claimed as as Vaziu by Damian Cook in 1995 03/Oct/1992

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland sub 6b, Portland.

Alex_RhodesUK 21/Jan Lead O/S

Lovely top section makes this brilliant route. Ignore all the comments about a loose lower half - just apply common sense and it's no big deal, honest.

Pete Scott 04/Dec/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Nov/16 Lead O/S
ssutton 05/Nov/16 Lead
martin one 05/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with ssutton
Carl 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Think the Gorgon got me, my forearms were pretty stony by the top! Nice climb, rather high first bolt and probably at groundfall for the second but once you're past that the climbing is great. Very sustained and some nice exposure.

The Screaming Finn 29/Aug/16 Lead dog
with CarlWH
Jack Shewring 31/Jul/16 Lead dnf
bryan61 16/Jul/16 Lead O/S

brilliant, sustained crack climbing more than compensates for a poor start

with m meaney
RadekNowak 22/May/16 Lead O/S

bit dirty

with Artur
artmal 22/May/16 Lead β
Livia 14/May/16 Lead
with Ella
druss 08/May/16 Lead O/S

Excellent climbing after the second bolt; a really good layback crack. Bottom looks loose so suggest starting as for Sniffin' Glue. No change to grade

with Adelle
Marti999 23/Mar/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Aug/15 Lead β
Tru 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S
ThomasB ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
royle883 15/Jun/15 Lead dog

Heavily vegetated until the crack but worth fighting through! Took a good whipper near the top

Hidden 10/Jun/15 Lead O/S
David Staples 10/Jun/15 Lead O/S
mariannekhoo 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Sustained but not terribly strenuous. Really straightforward for 6a+.

with Nick Pike
leoch01 02/Nov/14 Lead
with Lorčne, Scott Bradshaw
Lorčne ?/Nov/14 Lead
Lorčne 21/Sep/14 Lead dnf
Gloria 21/Sep/14 2nd
with Lorčne
RKirke 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Ryu
dan gibson 21/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with julie carroll
Julie Carroll 21/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Gibson
Graham Westbrook 31/Jul/14 Lead O/S
philhaigh 14/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Aarron Schofield, Steve Hau, Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Gem Minihan
Hidden 14/Jul/14 Lead O/S
AlexD 07/Jul/14 Lead rpt

Seemed fine though had to play hunt the bolt for the 2nd and 3rd as they were hidden by grass! Start cleaned and rebolted in Dec 2011.

with Shamina
DaveB61 04/May/14 Lead dnf

Got to penultimate pitch but couldn't clip it. Took a big (20'?) fall, and banged my ankle and twisted my knee.

with Paul Trethaway
Jonathan Emett 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S

climbed the first 3 bolts on the route to the right. This makes it safe-ish, if a little unnerving, although not that much worse than the starts of many other classics in the area. The crack is fantastic, and well worth the start. Take a helmet!

with tomski
Hidden ?/May/13 -
Hidden 21/Apr/13 Lead
thomb 21/Apr/13 Lead
with Gareth, Tom Syrett
DorsetGareth 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Very loose in the lower section!

with Tom B
tsyrett 21/Apr/13 Lead dog
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead dog
SenorVivo 04/Jun/12 2nd
Seema 04/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 27/May/12 Lead rpt
natalietanzer 13/May/12 Lead O/S

Wow - had no idea about the warnings about this climb before we did it. actually really enjoyed it, first route of the day, was super careful climbing up the first section and then quite enjoyed the lovely lay-back up the second half, between the terrifying run-outs that is. probably best not to climb it again though..

with Dan, Be
JamesBrowning 06/May/12 Lead dnf

Aborted after stepping onto a microwave sized block just below the secong bolt which disapeared under my feet! Luckily I was holding onto a jug at the time and was able to hang on. Definately one to avoid!

with Alice
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead β
Hidden 24/Mar/12 TR
Kevster 09/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Try traversing in from the route to the right to avoid the looser section.

dannyboy83 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Dougie
dswansonlow 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
mlg678 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S

how are people giving this route any stars, the bottom is crazy loose! bag of ....!

tinker69 07/Aug/11 -

Lower half extremely unstable.A very risky proposition!!!

lewiz 30/Jul/11 Lead dnf

Agree with previous comment that route is falling apart. Third bolt appeared to be in a detached block of rock! Retreated hastily

tom.ireson 24/Jul/11 Lead dog

Very much caught out by the crux near the top, just a little spooked by the setting too! great route though, will go back for it. Definitely feels exposed and run out for the grade!

with Sarah Procter
Jus 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S


Hidden 24/Mar/11 Lead dog
mike lawrence? 24/Mar/11 Lead
with Colin
Spacetourist ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Rosea
Rosea Day ?/Mar/11 Lead β
PeterDawson ??/2011 TR O/S
tomB 04/Sep/10 Lead dog

Arm Spazum!

with Juliette
Luke Dawson ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Alex More 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with keiha
KDhruev 27/Sep/09 TR

must go back and complete on lead

Hidden 09/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/09 Lead dog
hippo99 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/09 TR dog
Luke d 05/Jun/09 Lead O/S
LC ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead
Richard Horn 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard 15/Mar/09 -
with Jane Weir
Matt Bennett ?/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Jane Weir ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
trev_f 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/08 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 12/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Rich
Ed Babs 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with John Vet
nawface ??/2008 Lead
tobydunford 24/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Ben Smith
Rob Laird 14/Apr/07 Lead dog

not difficult, but very tiring. had to rest at top section

timharrison 07/Apr/07 Lead O/S
trevor macalonan 07/Apr/07 TR O/S
with Tim
silhouette ?/Apr/07 Lead dog

One rest (all in the mind)

with Mark
Paz 14/Jan/07 Lead O/S
with TS
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 18/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Julia Chatterton 07/Oct/06 2nd
with Will
a_radiohead_fan ?/Oct/06 -
Alex Been ?/Jul/06 Lead β
Dorset ?/Jul/06 2nd
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden 20/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jan/05 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Jan/05 2nd
brian watson ?/Jan/05 Lead O/S
brian watson ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Scott Titt, Tim Dunsby
Hidden 25/Apr/04 Lead β
Hidden 20/Jul/03 Lead β
AlexD 23/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/01 Lead
Hidden ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Robmwatt ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Nigel Coe 03/Oct/92 2nd

FA trad

with Tim Dunsby
16 users have this on their wishlist
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set