28m.

Rockfax Description
A major crack-line that is both strenuous and sustained. © Rockfax

FA. Tim Dunsby. Accidentally also claimed as as Vaziu by Damian Cook in 1995 03/Oct/1992

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland sub 6b, Portland, CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock, Portland Sendathon

Feedback

UserDateNotes
a_radiohead_fan 9 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: easy peasy. never felt hard at all. and the bolts never felt spaced to me although compared to other routes on the island they actually are.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: easy peasy. never felt hard at all. and the bolts never felt spaced to me although compared to other routes on the island they actually are.
Pete 17 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Did this for the second time on a cold January day, which probably made it feel harder, but I would still say top end 6a+ compared with others of a similar grade. Fantastic crack climb though. Almost a pity its bolted as you could lace it with gear and would make an excellent trad climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did this for the second time on a cold January day, which probably made it feel harder, but I would still say top end 6a+ compared with others of a similar grade. Fantastic crack climb though. Almost a pity its bolted as you could lace it with gear and would make an excellent trad climb.
tomrainbow 7 May, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: The bolts seemed very spaced on this route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The bolts seemed very spaced on this route.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Paul Hicks 21 Sep TR RP
with Rob Doyle
with Rob Doyle
emmafizzle 13 Sep Lead G/U I know I’d been on this before and bailed. Lovely climb- so much fun!
I know I’d been on this before and bailed. Lovely climb- so much fun!
billabonggaz 5 Sep - 28m
28m
jammo 28 Jul Lead O/S
with Amanda, StepHen91
with Amanda, StepHen91
StepHen91 28 Jul 2nd
with jammo
with jammo
Ron Yeadon 30 Jun Lead
Hidden 27 Jun Lead O/S
Tomas P 20 Jun Lead O/S
with Summer, Aelita
with Summer, Aelita
ofl_23 18 May TR dog
Rgledable 18 May Lead O/S
Jamdahll 18 May Lead dog Flash pump got me! Great route will try to get again clean !
Flash pump got me! Great route will try to get again clean !
Hidden 6 May Lead O/S
Phil Davidson 29 Apr Lead O/S
with Millsy
with Millsy
Hidden 22 Apr TR dog
FerClimbs 21 Apr Lead O/S Awesome route!
with Amber Daly
Awesome route!
with Amber Daly
billabonggaz 13 Apr - 28m
28m
poeter210 6 Apr Lead O/S
with druss
with druss
Hidden 6 Apr Lead rpt
Old Danny 25 Mar Lead dog
with ElliotM
with ElliotM
ElliotM 25 Mar Lead O/S
Julian Prieto 24 Mar Lead rpt
with Nick Cannon
with Nick Cannon
Wayne.Gaudin 24 Mar Lead O/S Good.
Good.
GerryWall 24 Mar Lead O/S Really good, quality line
with Wayne.Gaudin, Eddie
Really good, quality line
with Wayne.Gaudin, Eddie
eddie "grunty" goodey 24 Mar Lead O/S Really excellent climb
Really excellent climb
Tommy Harris 24 Mar Lead O/S Really Enjoyed this climb, Up there with the best of them at this grade.
Really Enjoyed this climb, Up there with the best of them at this grade.
Andre Clarke 24 Mar Lead dog
Ignas Va 17 Feb Lead rpt
starlitejumper 1 Jan Lead dog
with Leo dF
with Leo dF
Leo dF ?Jan Lead O/S
Dandan 23 Nov, 2018 Lead O/S
Carnie Lisa 23 Nov, 2018 2nd β
with Dan Verge
with Dan Verge
Hidden 1 Nov, 2018 Lead β
AJM 29 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Found this surprisingly good.
with AllyBee, Mike Moss
Found this surprisingly good.
with AllyBee, Mike Moss
thunderstruck 8 Sep, 2018 Lead dog
liucija.lat 8 Sep, 2018 Lead β
Sam Head 5 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
with Dad
with Dad
camara_p 1 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Great fun but pump management required!
Great fun but pump management required!
annakh 1 Sep, 2018 Lead dog Really enjoyed it but got pumped and said take near top
with camara_p, Sergey
Really enjoyed it but got pumped and said take near top
with camara_p, Sergey
nacnud 1 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
with Iain
with Iain
RebekkaB 1 Sep, 2018 Lead dog Rested quite a few times, mainly to mental prep before tackeling the “spaced” bolts. Should be doable with a bit of practice
Rested quite a few times, mainly to mental prep before tackeling the “spaced” bolts. Should be doable with a bit of practice
Matt77 18 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with Nye Cominetti, Tom Riddelsdell
with Nye Cominetti, Tom Riddelsdell
Ignas Va 2 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Bettymolly 24 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Garden :( spaced bolts!!
Garden :( spaced bolts!!
Ian Ford 14 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Overgrown, runout in bits and every time I put my had in the crack thousands of bugs ran down my arm. Feels like a trad route, great fun.
Overgrown, runout in bits and every time I put my had in the crack thousands of bugs ran down my arm. Feels like a trad route, great fun.
Hidden 5 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Kipper-Phil Smith 20 Apr, 2018 Lead Good to get a bit of mileage in on this long one
with Denis
Good to get a bit of mileage in on this long one
with Denis
MichaelCow 5 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Apr, 2018 Lead dog
julesmckim 15 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S A big route. The trad face of sport? Spaced bolts, vegetation, loose blocks, crux at the top - excellent.
with Rob Smart
A big route. The trad face of sport? Spaced bolts, vegetation, loose blocks, crux at the top - excellent.
with Rob Smart
Paddy Bos Coe 10 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S
adamsriches 3 Dec, 2017 Lead O/S
with Elodie
with Elodie
woohano89 ?Oct, 2017 Lead
tonevert 15 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Paloma
with Paloma
Hidden 6 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Jul, 2017 TR rpt
Hidden 1 Jul, 2017 Lead dog
David Staples 1 Jul, 2017 Lead dnf
Shamina 1 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
johnhan310 25 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
dryvita 25 Jun, 2017 Lead β Awesome! Great little designer run outs, super secure bomber flake more or less all the way up
with John Hanley, David Dickinson
Awesome! Great little designer run outs, super secure bomber flake more or less all the way up
with John Hanley, David Dickinson
David Dickinson 25 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Wow! Absolutely love this climb, been back on it 3 times since
Wow! Absolutely love this climb, been back on it 3 times since
Hidden 25 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
guy127917 3 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Raj
with Raj
Julian Prieto 20 May, 2017 Lead O/S
with James Gregory
with James Gregory
Hidden 22 Apr, 2017 Lead dnf
Marti999 17 Apr, 2017 Lead rpt
Marti999 17 Apr, 2017 Lead rpt
RagingPuffin 16 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
with Tom, Nicki
with Tom, Nicki
Ossolano78 16 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Lenny 16 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
with Gayle
with Gayle
kcichy 15 Apr, 2017 Lead β
Beata Wozniak 15 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
with Krzysztof Cichy
with Krzysztof Cichy
MarcinK 10 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
with Piotr Slezak
with Piotr Slezak
Shane Willis 25 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S Part of my '30 routes in a day' to celebrate turning 30. After 6 hours of climbing, this felt like 7a+!
Part of my '30 routes in a day' to celebrate turning 30. After 6 hours of climbing, this felt like 7a+!
samparsons 25 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S Top route! One of my favourites at this grade!!!
Top route! One of my favourites at this grade!!!
Hidden 25 Mar, 2017 Lead
johnhan310 ?Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
Bristol_Quornstar 21 Jan, 2017 Lead O/S Lovely top section makes this brilliant route. Ignore all the comments about a loose lower half - just apply common sense and it's no big deal, honest.
with Green_t
Lovely top section makes this brilliant route. Ignore all the comments about a loose lower half - just apply common sense and it's no big deal, honest.
with Green_t
Pete Scott 4 Dec, 2016 Lead O/S
AJ007 6 Nov, 2016 Lead
Hidden 6 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S
ssutton 5 Nov, 2016 Lead
martin one 5 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S
with ssutton
with ssutton
Carl 29 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Think the Gorgon got me, my forearms were pretty stony by the top! Nice climb, rather high first bolt and probably at groundfall for the second but once you're past that the climbing is great. Very sustained and some nice exposure.
Think the Gorgon got me, my forearms were pretty stony by the top! Nice climb, rather high first bolt and probably at groundfall for the second but once you're past that the climbing is great. Very sustained and some nice exposure.
The Screaming Finn 29 Aug, 2016 Lead dog
with Carl
with Carl
Jack Shewring 31 Jul, 2016 Lead dnf
bryan61 16 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S brilliant, sustained crack climbing more than compensates for a poor start
with m meaney
brilliant, sustained crack climbing more than compensates for a poor start
with m meaney
RadekNowak 22 May, 2016 Lead O/S bit dirty
with artmal
bit dirty
with artmal
artmal 22 May, 2016 Lead β
Livia 14 May, 2016 Lead
with Ella
with Ella
Hidden 8 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Marti999 23 Mar, 2016 Lead rpt
Hidden 29 Aug, 2015 Lead β
Tru 1 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
ThomasB ?Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
royle883 15 Jun, 2015 Lead dog Heavily vegetated until the crack but worth fighting through! Took a good whipper near the top
Heavily vegetated until the crack but worth fighting through! Took a good whipper near the top
David Staples 10 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Bruise Apprentice 7 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S Sustained but not terribly strenuous. Really straightforward for 6a+.
with Nick Pike
Sustained but not terribly strenuous. Really straightforward for 6a+.
with Nick Pike
leoch01 2 Nov, 2014 Lead
with Lorène, Scott Bradshaw
with Lorène, Scott Bradshaw
Lorène ?Nov, 2014 Lead
Lorène 21 Sep, 2014 Lead dnf
with Gloria
with Gloria
Gloria 21 Sep, 2014 2nd
with Lorène
with Lorène
RKirke 20 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with rjf106
with rjf106
Julie Carroll 21 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with Dan Gibson
with Dan Gibson
dan gibson 21 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with julie carroll
with julie carroll
Graham Westbrook 31 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Gem Minihan 14 Jul, 2014 2nd
philhaigh 14 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with Aarron Schofield, Steve Hau, Mike Gubbins, Shamina, Barry Kerslake, Gem Minihan
with Aarron Schofield, Steve Hau, Mike Gubbins, Shamina, Barry Kerslake, Gem Minihan
Hidden 14 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
AlexD 7 Jul, 2014 Lead rpt Seemed fine though had to play hunt the bolt for the 2nd and 3rd as they were hidden by grass! Start cleaned and rebolted in Dec 2011.
with Shamina
Seemed fine though had to play hunt the bolt for the 2nd and 3rd as they were hidden by grass! Start cleaned and rebolted in Dec 2011.
with Shamina
DaveB61 4 May, 2014 Lead dnf Got to penultimate pitch but couldn't clip it. Took a big (20'?) fall, and banged my ankle and twisted my knee.
with Paul Trethaway
Got to penultimate pitch but couldn't clip it. Took a big (20'?) fall, and banged my ankle and twisted my knee.
with Paul Trethaway
Jonathan Emett 25 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S climbed the first 3 bolts on the route to the right. This makes it safe-ish, if a little unnerving, although not that much worse than the starts of many other classics in the area. The crack is fantastic, and well worth the start. Take a helmet!
with tomski3
climbed the first 3 bolts on the route to the right. This makes it safe-ish, if a little unnerving, although not that much worse than the starts of many other classics in the area. The crack is fantastic, and well worth the start. Take a helmet!
with tomski3
Hidden ?May, 2013 -
Hidden 21 Apr, 2013 Lead
DorsetGareth 21 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S Very loose in the lower section!
with thomb
Very loose in the lower section!
with thomb
tsyrett 21 Apr, 2013 Lead dog
thomb 21 Apr, 2013 Lead
with Gareth, Tom Syrett
with Gareth, Tom Syrett
SenorVivo 4 Jun, 2012 2nd
James Gomez 4 Jun, 2012 Lead dog Loose at the bottom but nice climbing in the second half. 60m rope needed. Didn't see warnings here before attempting.
Loose at the bottom but nice climbing in the second half. 60m rope needed. Didn't see warnings here before attempting.
Seema 4 Jun, 2012 2nd
Hidden 27 May, 2012 Lead rpt
natalietanzer 13 May, 2012 Lead O/S Wow - had no idea about the warnings about this climb before we did it. actually really enjoyed it, first route of the day, was super careful climbing up the first section and then quite enjoyed the lovely lay-back up the second half, between the terrifying run-outs that is. probably best not to climb it again though..
with Dan, Be
Wow - had no idea about the warnings about this climb before we did it. actually really enjoyed it, first route of the day, was super careful climbing up the first section and then quite enjoyed the lovely lay-back up the second half, between the terrifying run-outs that is. probably best not to climb it again though..
with Dan, Be
JamesBrowning 6 May, 2012 Lead dnf Aborted after stepping onto a microwave sized block just below the secong bolt which disapeared under my feet! Luckily I was holding onto a jug at the time and was able to hang on. Definately one to avoid!
with Alice
Aborted after stepping onto a microwave sized block just below the secong bolt which disapeared under my feet! Luckily I was holding onto a jug at the time and was able to hang on. Definately one to avoid!
with Alice
Hidden 24 Mar, 2012 Lead β
Hidden 24 Mar, 2012 Lead
Hidden 24 Mar, 2012 TR
Kevster 9 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S Try traversing in from the route to the right to avoid the looser section.
Try traversing in from the route to the right to avoid the looser section.
dswansonlow 26 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 26 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
mlg678 25 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S how are people giving this route any stars, the bottom is crazy loose! bag of ....!
how are people giving this route any stars, the bottom is crazy loose! bag of ....!
tinker69 7 Aug, 2011 - Lower half extremely unstable.A very risky proposition!!!
Lower half extremely unstable.A very risky proposition!!!
lewiz 30 Jul, 2011 Lead dnf Agree with previous comment that route is falling apart. Third bolt appeared to be in a detached block of rock! Retreated hastily
with kirsten
Agree with previous comment that route is falling apart. Third bolt appeared to be in a detached block of rock! Retreated hastily
with kirsten
tom.ireson 24 Jul, 2011 Lead dog Very much caught out by the crux near the top, just a little spooked by the setting too! great route though, will go back for it. Definitely feels exposed and run out for the grade!
with Sarah Procter
Very much caught out by the crux near the top, just a little spooked by the setting too! great route though, will go back for it. Definitely feels exposed and run out for the grade!
with Sarah Procter
Jus 26 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S ROUTE IS FALLING APART. DO NOT ATTEMPT. VERY DANGEROUS.
ROUTE IS FALLING APART. DO NOT ATTEMPT. VERY DANGEROUS.
Hidden 24 Mar, 2011 Lead dog
mike lawrence? 24 Mar, 2011 Lead
Tom Heslam ?Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
Rosea Day ?Mar, 2011 Lead β
PeterDawson ??, 2011 TR O/S
tomB 4 Sep, 2010 Lead dog Arm Spazum!
with Juliette
Arm Spazum!
with Juliette
Luke Dawson ?Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Alex More 27 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
with keiha
with keiha
KDhruev 27 Sep, 2009 TR must go back and complete on lead
must go back and complete on lead
Hidden 9 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Aug, 2009 Lead dog
hippo99 25 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Jul, 2009 TR dog
Luke d 5 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 May, 2009 Lead
Richard Horn 19 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard 15 Mar, 2009 -
with Jane Weir
with Jane Weir
Matt Bennett ?Feb, 2009 Lead O/S
Jane Weir ??, 2009 Lead
nealh ??, 2009 Lead
trev_f 12 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 12 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
with vertigo
with vertigo
Ed Babs 26 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S
with John Vet
with John Vet
nawface ??, 2008 Lead
tobydunford 24 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
with Ben Smith
with Ben Smith
Rob Laird 14 Apr, 2007 Lead dog not difficult, but very tiring. had to rest at top section
not difficult, but very tiring. had to rest at top section
trevor macalonan 7 Apr, 2007 TR O/S
Hidden 7 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
silhouette ?Apr, 2007 Lead dog One rest (all in the mind)
with Mark
One rest (all in the mind)
with Mark
Paz 14 Jan, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Jan, 2007 2nd
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Hidden 18 Nov, 2006 Lead O/S
Julia Chatterton 7 Oct, 2006 2nd
with Will
with Will
a_radiohead_fan ?Oct, 2006 -
Alex Been ?Jul, 2006 Lead β
Dorset ?Jul, 2006 2nd
steve taylor ??, 2006 Lead
Marti999 ??, 2006 Lead
migs493 29 May, 2005 Lead β
Mark Stevenson 20 Mar, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Jan, 2005 2nd dog
brian watson ?Jan, 2005 Lead O/S
with Tim Dunsby, scott titt
with Tim Dunsby, scott titt
scott titt ?Jan, 2005 2nd
Hidden 25 Apr, 2004 Lead β
Hidden 20 Jul, 2003 Lead β
Pete Wimbush ?May, 2003 Lead
AlexD 23 Apr, 2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ?May, 2001 Lead
Hidden ??, 2001 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??, 2000 -
The Jazz Butcher ??, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 2000 -
bruce ??, 1998 -
with Richard Bossons
with Richard Bossons
Nigel Coe 3 Oct, 1992 2nd FA trad
with Tim Dunsby
FA trad
with Tim Dunsby
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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 41
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set