28m.

Rockfax Description
A Portland gem. Start at a boulder on the path. Climb the lower wall to below a long crack-line. Move up the crack until a line leads out left onto the wall and small ledge. Climb the slabby wall above the ledge until a tricky mantel move gains the lower-off. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 14/Sep/1991

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Red Spot Portland 2016, Portland, Gwenland, CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock, Portland Sendathon

Feedback

UserDateNotes
a_radiohead_fan 9 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: super rising traverse and at the end of a long day the mantle felt desperate to my tired arms. i had de ja vu. thought i was on return to roissy all over again. much better than lord stubbock.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: super rising traverse and at the end of a long day the mantle felt desperate to my tired arms. i had de ja vu. thought i was on return to roissy all over again. much better than lord stubbock.
John Alcock 6 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Portland classic. Top move is well-protected but apparently quite hard for vertically challenged female climbing partners.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Portland classic. Top move is well-protected but apparently quite hard for vertically challenged female climbing partners.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
TeenageMutantClimbingTurtle 6 Oct 2nd dog
with Stroppy
with Stroppy
Stroppy 6 Oct Lead O/S Interesting crozzle fondling
Interesting crozzle fondling
Owen Davies 4 Sep Lead O/S
with Dad
with Dad
Dizz 19 Aug Lead O/S Very good climbing but rather hard at the top if you are not tall - almost dropped it, but determination won - even if it finished me for the day!
with Julian
Very good climbing but rather hard at the top if you are not tall - almost dropped it, but determination won - even if it finished me for the day!
with Julian
Whitey Pinkrope 6 Jul TR dog
with Hicksy's
with Hicksy's
Martin Bagshaw 30 Jun Lead rpt Did not realise I had already done this
with Andy M
Did not realise I had already done this
with Andy M
Hidden 9 Jun -
Hidden 9 Jun Lead O/S
Whitey Pinkrope 18 May TR dog
with Hicksy's
with Hicksy's
Paul Hicks 6 May TR dog Almost a clean TR. Didn't spot the high right pockets to gain the mantle
with Gaz Fry, Paul Whitehead
Almost a clean TR. Didn't spot the high right pockets to gain the mantle
with Gaz Fry, Paul Whitehead
Whitey Pinkrope 6 May TR dnf
billabonggaz 6 May - 28m
28m
tonevert 4 May Lead O/S
with Paloma
with Paloma
andyjirvin 15 Apr Lead dog Really lovely route, quite surprising for the area, as does have the feel of an exposed trad route. The traverse and slab section feels a bit spicy and airy with a technical little sequence. Couldn't find a crucial hold for the move up after completing the traverse, dropped it at that point. Save something for the final moves, holds are difficult to find and requires both good technique and a bit of oomph.
Really lovely route, quite surprising for the area, as does have the feel of an exposed trad route. The traverse and slab section feels a bit spicy and airy with a technical little sequence. Couldn't find a crucial hold for the move up after completing the traverse, dropped it at that point. Save something for the final moves, holds are difficult to find and requires both good technique and a bit of oomph.
Hidden 15 Apr Lead dnf
billabonggaz 15 Apr - 28m
28m
ARiches 24 Feb TR
tsyrett 30 Dec, 2018 Lead RP Previously overlooked this line in the past to continue up the tempting crack but it's well worth the deviation. Tricky move to gain the slab from the ledge and almost dropped the final move.
Previously overlooked this line in the past to continue up the tempting crack but it's well worth the deviation. Tricky move to gain the slab from the ledge and almost dropped the final move.
AJM 29 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Very good
with AllyBee, Mike Moss
Very good
with AllyBee, Mike Moss
Hidden 14 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Vince 2 Sep, 2018 Lead RP
with Matt Davies
with Matt Davies
FatAz 2 Sep, 2018 Lead RP
with Vince Ho
with Vince Ho
FatAz 2 Sep, 2018 Lead dog
with Vince Ho
with Vince Ho
Carnie Lisa 31 Aug, 2018 Lead dog Hard to know when to split left and hard smearing at the top!
with Dan Verge
Hard to know when to split left and hard smearing at the top!
with Dan Verge
Jessica Brown 23 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with George
with George
George Killaspy 23 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Jess
with Jess
Hidden 17 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Q.Estelles 5 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Abi Chard 3 May, 2018 Lead dog
emdawes 5 Nov, 2017 Lead β
Jwatson 5 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S
with emdawes
with emdawes
Hidden 4 Sep, 2017 Lead β
Ian Bell 2 Sep, 2017 Lead rpt Good 2nd time round although a bit harder than I remembered
Good 2nd time round although a bit harder than I remembered
EJWest 25 Aug, 2017 TR dog
nacnud 12 Aug, 2017 Lead
Rokmunky 12 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with nacnud
with nacnud
johnhan310 6 Aug, 2017 Lead RP cruised up the flake, very satisfying. last move before the bolts is the definite crux. dropped it on the first go and then desperately clipped the chains on the second - almost dropped it with a full arm of slack out.
with Ben Fordesman
cruised up the flake, very satisfying. last move before the bolts is the definite crux. dropped it on the first go and then desperately clipped the chains on the second - almost dropped it with a full arm of slack out.
with Ben Fordesman
julesmckim 1 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S A big pitch in a great situation. Fairly steady most of the way - awesome climbing out left at half height, then a technical crux at the top on small hidden holds. Lovely
with GeoMike
A big pitch in a great situation. Fairly steady most of the way - awesome climbing out left at half height, then a technical crux at the top on small hidden holds. Lovely
with GeoMike
Hidden 8 Jul, 2017 Lead RP
Hidden 2 Jun, 2017 TR
Hidden 13 May, 2017 Lead dog
Beata Wozniak 15 Apr, 2017 Lead RP First attempt fall after last clip. Clean in 2nd go
with Krzysztof Cichy
First attempt fall after last clip. Clean in 2nd go
with Krzysztof Cichy
kcichy 15 Apr, 2017 Lead β
Hidden 13 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Pete Scott 26 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
duncan 4 Dec, 2016 Lead O/S
with Sean Smith
with Sean Smith
martin one 26 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S
with ssutton, Markus
with ssutton, Markus
ssutton 26 Nov, 2016 Lead dog
with Markus, martin one
with Markus, martin one
afrosam 31 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
samparsons 30 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S Accidental link up between this and shells by starting up shells because of no guide book. All the other 6b's around it are better.
Accidental link up between this and shells by starting up shells because of no guide book. All the other 6b's around it are better.
tonevert 30 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
with Paloma
with Paloma
Matt77 22 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 22 Oct, 2016 Lead RP
with Matt77
with Matt77
partz 8 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
khalidq 2 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
with Liz Caspar
with Liz Caspar
hervenuttall ?Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
with Beth, Matt or Marcus
with Beth, Matt or Marcus
Carl 29 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Had rather a lot of faff caused by not enough draws, had to use a maillon for the penultimate bolt! Very happy to still get it clean, the mantley move right at the top is great.
Had rather a lot of faff caused by not enough draws, had to use a maillon for the penultimate bolt! Very happy to still get it clean, the mantley move right at the top is great.
The Screaming Finn 29 Aug, 2016 Lead dog After having stupidly taken a rest after the second bolt, I further up the route noticed I didn't have enough draws. Tragic.
with Carl
After having stupidly taken a rest after the second bolt, I further up the route noticed I didn't have enough draws. Tragic.
with Carl
Hidden 10 Jul, 2016 TR rpt
Lakesben 27 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
with Mark, The Plough
with Mark, The Plough
GrahamGiles 8 May, 2016 Lead O/S Made a right hash of this one... Started up The shells the shells to the left then realized at mid height and traversed over to join the start of the beautiful crack, then all of a sudden i was at the chains... good fun minus the last move :P
with Kim Lukas, Joannechui
Made a right hash of this one... Started up The shells the shells to the left then realized at mid height and traversed over to join the start of the beautiful crack, then all of a sudden i was at the chains... good fun minus the last move :P
with Kim Lukas, Joannechui
Hidden 8 May, 2016 TR dnf
Hidden 1 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Dandan 23 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Carnie Lisa 23 Apr, 2016 2nd dog
with Dan Verge
with Dan Verge
brian watson 16 Apr, 2016 Lead rpt
Sophie Nunn 16 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
robajob 2 Apr, 2016 Lead RP
lewiz 20 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
with Artur Malczuk
with Artur Malczuk
Flavio 22 Nov, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 Sep, 2015 -
Phil Davidson 28 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
with Pete Cahill, jim hewson
with Pete Cahill, jim hewson
JackMac 16 Aug, 2015 Lead G/U I felt I had to repeat it after weighting the rope first attempt after some confusion over the correct line. Not a bad route but the others are better at this grade.
with BC
I felt I had to repeat it after weighting the rope first attempt after some confusion over the correct line. Not a bad route but the others are better at this grade.
with BC
BC 16 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Ian Bell 8 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Finally got round to doing it, didn't dissapoint
Finally got round to doing it, didn't dissapoint
Tru 1 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 May, 2015 Lead O/S
JUSTADUDE 26 May, 2015 Lead O/S Just as good as its neighbour, although more fingery
Just as good as its neighbour, although more fingery
Hidden 25 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Martin Bagshaw 16 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with Ed Green
with Ed Green
Hidden 2 May, 2015 Lead dog
Hidden 6 Apr, 2015 Lead
emwarren 5 Apr, 2015 TR
Kris suriyo 5 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Luxulyan 21 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
with Abi
with Abi
Hidden 15 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
Skorchio 7 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S Amazing! Can't believe its not polished!
Amazing! Can't believe its not polished!
Hidden ??, 2015 Lead
bryan61 28 Sep, 2014 Lead dog
with bogden
with bogden
bigdrew 15 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with eel
with eel
eel 15 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with Andy J
with Andy J
Graham Westbrook 31 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
dbrooks 25 May, 2014 Lead dog fell at the top, tough move
fell at the top, tough move
John Tanner 25 May, 2014 Lead O/S
with dbrooks
with dbrooks
AlexD 5 May, 2014 Lead rpt
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
Rupey 13 Apr, 2014 Lead
with mel arran phil
with mel arran phil
philhaigh 13 Apr, 2014 2nd rpt
with melD
with melD
Shamina 9 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Apr, 2014 Lead β
RKirke 30 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
with BenL
with BenL
BenL 29 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
with Angus Webb
with Angus Webb
Ben J 3 Aug, 2013 Lead dog 1 stupid fall, really annoyed I didn't get the onsight! Stunning route though, very tasty.
with Dan_F
1 stupid fall, really annoyed I didn't get the onsight! Stunning route though, very tasty.
with Dan_F
brices 30 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Feb, 2013 Lead β
Jobbo 10 Dec, 2012 Lead O/S
with mattc
with mattc
Skullfire 29 Sep, 2012 Lead RP
with Ian Ash
with Ian Ash
Hidden 29 Sep, 2012 Lead dog
Hidden 1 Sep, 2012 Lead dog
Hidden 19 Aug, 2012 Lead dog
philhaigh 15 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins, melD, EddyYoung, Rob Kennard
with Mike Hawkins, melD, EddyYoung, Rob Kennard
dannyboy83 3 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with tt85
with tt85
tt85 3 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S One fall when strayed on to the neighbouring 7a; otherwise clean.
One fall when strayed on to the neighbouring 7a; otherwise clean.
Qisheng Xie 22 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
with Ben Aldersey
with Ben Aldersey
rustaldo 19 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S worthwhile, semi-decent route.
worthwhile, semi-decent route.
Jordon Fleming 19 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
with matt
with matt
catblack 6 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S A wandering line with only a couple of good moves. Not really a mantel at the top if you spend some time looking around for holds. A bit over rated
A wandering line with only a couple of good moves. Not really a mantel at the top if you spend some time looking around for holds. A bit over rated
Andrew Barker 6 Apr, 2012 Lead β A wandering and massively overrated route.
A wandering and massively overrated route.
Hidden 18 Mar, 2012 Lead rpt
burto 9 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
with steve
with steve
Nick Russell 3 Mar, 2012 Lead dog
with Emily
with Emily
John Southworth 15 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S
with Alex Jakubowski
with Alex Jakubowski
Hidden 20 Nov, 2011 TR dog
Hidden 20 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Oct, 2011 2nd
Kevster 9 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 26 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S lovely route!
with simon, benscarter
lovely route!
with simon, benscarter
benscarter 26 Jun, 2011 TR dog
with Simon Forman
with Simon Forman
Alex More 14 May, 2011 Lead O/S
with Ed babs
with Ed babs
John Lewis 2 Apr, 2011 TR dog
Billg 2 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with Will Calvert
with Will Calvert
JasTaplin 13 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
with J.Wells
with J.Wells
Julia Chatterton 12 Feb, 2011 Lead Amazing route - my first 6b+ and loved it. Fab technical slab, followed by an interesting blank wall jut before the belay. Superb sunny February day too
with Will
Amazing route - my first 6b+ and loved it. Fab technical slab, followed by an interesting blank wall jut before the belay. Superb sunny February day too
with Will
Luke Dawson 12 Feb, 2011 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 29 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S
with Ivan M
with Ivan M
mlg678 ?Jan, 2011 Lead O/S
Hawkscry ??, 2011 -
PeterDawson ??, 2011 TR O/S
Hidden 30 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
davewsargent ?Aug, 2010 TR
pie_eater_pete ?Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Barry Kerslake 25 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Strayed onto the shells, then started again
with Steve H
Strayed onto the shells, then started again
with Steve H
SMc 12 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Anne
with Anne
AlexD 6 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
ThomasB ?Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Peterjuliandawson 15 May, 2010 TR β
natalietanzer 17 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with Duncan
with Duncan
nacnud 17 Apr, 2010 Lead β
Owen W-G 4 Apr, 2010 Lead dnf Finished on final (double) bolts thinking it was the belay. Fancied the tick since the day out was otherwise terrible but a cheat to do so. I'll be back to finish it properly. Good route but first half is well easy.
with David Coley
Finished on final (double) bolts thinking it was the belay. Fancied the tick since the day out was otherwise terrible but a cheat to do so. I'll be back to finish it properly. Good route but first half is well easy.
with David Coley
scott titt 7 Mar, 2010 2nd
brian watson 7 Mar, 2010 Lead dog rested/fell at end of traverse
rested/fell at end of traverse
SuseH 21 Feb, 2010 TR O/S
Hidden 6 Feb, 2010 Lead RP
Hidden 6 Feb, 2010 Lead O/S
davewsargent ??, 2010 TR
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Wil Treasure ??, 2010 Lead
Hidden 15 Nov, 2009 Lead O/S
mattcyp88 24 Oct, 2009 Lead β
with Grace Chuchla, Ian Faulkner
with Grace Chuchla, Ian Faulkner
ian d f 24 Oct, 2009 Lead dog Really nice climb, perhaps a little economically bolted in the lower section. Quite hard to read
with Grace Chuchla, Matt
Really nice climb, perhaps a little economically bolted in the lower section. Quite hard to read
with Grace Chuchla, Matt
Hidden 16 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
vertigo 25 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
with Grace Bird
with Grace Bird
dan gibson 12 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson
with jacquie robinson
chris sm 12 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden 14 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Phil79 14 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S With the draws in.
with Pete & Henry
With the draws in.
with Pete & Henry
Ed Babs 6 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
with Mike Hawkins
trev_f 23 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Jon
with Jon
givemetea 21 Mar, 2009 Lead dog it all came apart at that tricky move just after the last bolt - went up with the wrong hand, couldn't reverse it and got pumped silly -- argh!
with Mark Shale
it all came apart at that tricky move just after the last bolt - went up with the wrong hand, couldn't reverse it and got pumped silly -- argh!
with Mark Shale
tobydunford 14 Feb, 2009 Lead rpt
Jane Weir ??, 2009 Lead
nealh ??, 2009 Lead
Hidden ??, 2009 Lead O/S
feilx 6 Dec, 2008 Lead O/S
with Rich Dagner
with Rich Dagner
Dave Rumney 12 Oct, 2008 -
with Sean Roberts
with Sean Roberts
pete johnson ?Oct, 2008 -
with Denis Wong, jim jones
with Denis Wong, jim jones
Ian Broome 10 May, 2008 Lead O/S
nawface ??, 2008 Lead
La Mont ??, 2008 -
tobydunford 3 Nov, 2007 TR β
with Harry Martin
with Harry Martin
Rob Kennard 24 Mar, 2007 -
feeko ?Mar, 2007 -
bigie bob 21 Feb, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Morgan Woods 8 Oct, 2006 Lead O/S
with Gareth
with Gareth
a_radiohead_fan ?Oct, 2006 -
Jus ?May, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ?May, 2006 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??, 2006 Lead
Marti999 ??, 2006 Lead
Derek Furze ??, 2005 Lead
Richard Horn ??, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Mar, 2003 Lead O/S
Mark A Humphries 22 Mar, 2003 Lead β
with dean howard
with dean howard
Hidden 19 May, 2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2001 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??, 2000 -
The Jazz Butcher ??, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Steve Crowe 16 Mar, 1998 Lead O/S
with karin
with karin
bruce ??, 1998 -
with Richard Bossons
with Richard Bossons
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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 50
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set