Rockfax Description
The long crack is a good route. Start at a boulder on the path. Climb the lower wall to below a long flake-crack. Climb the accommodating crack to a tricky bulge at its end. Finish up a perplexing groove in the headwall. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 13/Aug/1995

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Red Spot Portland 2016, Portland.

afterthesend 07/Jan Lead β
emmafizzle 07/Jan Lead dnf

Never brave enough to do the finishing moves.

adamsriches 29/Oct/17 Lead RP
pguilloux 29/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Julian
Hidden 14/Oct/17 TR dog
JPGR 28/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Tristan.Stricker 26/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Easy with a puzzle move at the top

with Tash
nacnud 12/Aug/17 Lead
Rokmunky 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Duncan
WillGW 05/Aug/17 Lead β
hfotheri 29/Jul/17 Lead dog
Andrew Telford 08/Jul/17 Lead RP
rachelvlc 25/Jun/17 Lead
with Anna
Ozzman136 30/May/17 TR dog

Great climb but couldn't finish the last two moves.

Paul Hicks 30/May/17 Lead dog

Tough at the top! Thanks for the clip stick Adam Perret!

with Ollie Smart
Ian Bell 13/May/17 Lead rpt
Paul Hicks 13/May/17 Lead dnf

Went for the OS. very enjoyable. Couldn't get the lower off! Need to work out the last move. great climb.

with David Staples
David Staples 13/May/17 Lead rpt
with Hicksey
MarcinK 22/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Ivan Alvarez
WillAndrew 17/Apr/17 Lead RP
with KatePG
KatePG 17/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Great crack climb, really fun route!

TomJ 15/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with derico
Jay-Ast 14/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Rosyk
Rosyk 14/Apr/17 2nd O/S
Kayface42 13/Apr/17 TR RP

Tried to lead first and bottled it. Then top roped clean. Beautiful route. Need more balls to lead the top.

with Si
Hidden 02/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Marti999 31/Mar/17 Lead rpt
with Marwan
Marti999 31/Mar/17 Lead rpt
with Marwan
alastairbegley 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Kevster 11/Mar/17 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/Feb/17 Lead O/S
luke glaister 22/Jan/17 Lead rpt

Still great. Love it. The top takes some working out.

Beata Wozniak ??/2017 Lead O/S
with Bede West
Hidden 28/Dec/16 Lead
WillRobertson 28/Dec/16 Lead β
Hidden 22/Dec/16 2nd
duncan 22/Dec/16 Lead rpt

First section only as warm-up

duncan 04/Dec/16 Lead

First section only as warm-up

with Sean Smith
martin one 26/Nov/16 Lead rpt

This time lead.Trouble at the top a rest and grabbed the extender at the top.

with ssutton, Markus
ssutton 26/Nov/16 Lead dnf

Next time I'll commit to that last move...

with Markus, martin one
duncan 26/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Sean Smith
Macca_7 16/Oct/16 Lead O/S

A real romp on jugs to the top which is a bit of a stopper move!

with Steve Pack
bede.west 16/Oct/16 Lead β

Cool, but soft?

EveC995 24/Sep/16 2nd
dohart 11/Sep/16 Lead
with Marcus
hervenuttall ?/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Beth, Matt or Marcus
Hidden 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
birks3746 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Really nice route, Al put the draws in (onsight) so I think its easier than her ascent but really enjoyed the length of the route, great jug hauling lower down with the waves crashing in the background then a bit of thought required at the top

with Alice Browne
dohart 05/Jul/16 Lead dog
with Patrick
patrickcd 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Doug
Hidden 26/Jun/16 Lead dnf
Hidden 26/Jun/16 Lead
Pete Scott 20/May/16 Lead O/S
L.miura 16/May/16 Lead RP

Got it on 2nd go. Unfortunately I went the wrong anchor on the right side on my first go…

with Julie Carroll
Ranaz 13/May/16 Lead O/S
Livia 07/May/16 Lead dog

rested once, at the top

with Pinno
luke glaister 01/May/16 Lead O/S

Really good route. And the top out is very tricky when the drews aren't in. I was crimping my Tits off and slapped for the top. So good.

cdpuk 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Increases in difficulty all the way to the top

Ian Bell 30/Apr/16 Lead rpt

Always good

with Tania T
Dandan82 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Carnie Lisa 23/Apr/16 Lead β


with Dan Verge
Gem Minihan 02/Apr/16 TR rpt
Brian H 25/Mar/16 Lead rpt
with Alice
alice fuller 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Top moves seemed fine to me ...with a long sling v kindly placed by Brian to take the sting out. Thank you Brian.

Kipper-Phil Smith 22/Mar/16 Lead
with Shaun
dinodinosaur 22/Mar/16 Lead dog

Only one fall, foot slipped slapping for top ledge, so gutted!

tsyrett 19/Mar/16 Lead RP

Fun and cruisy until the crux where it got a bit spicy. Got it on the second go clipping off the crimp before topping out for glory

Tom Brierley Gore 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Nice long route, told to hurry up on crux cos helicopters, lol.

tommccluskey 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Jess, Petar
poeter210 14/Feb/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Feb/16 Lead β
onlyfoddington 10/Jan/16 TR dog

Failed one move from the top

with Ian
ian d f 10/Jan/16 Lead O/S
adamsriches ??/2016 Lead dog
OliverRoss 25/Oct/15 Lead dog
with Alkis
Alkis 25/Oct/15 Lead β
London Luke ?/Oct/15 Lead
JoeE 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Pumpy! Tricky final move.

with Marc Griffiths
Tru 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S
tash 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Good route, though tricky top!

with ali k
samparsons 23/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/15 Lead O/S
zakbentley 29/May/15 TR dog
JUSTADUDE 26/May/15 Lead rpt

Best climb I've had in a while, forgot how nice the movement was

David Staples 25/May/15 Lead rpt
philhaigh 25/May/15 Lead rpt
with Aarron Schofield, Mel Dodge, Natalie Haigh
Hidden 09/May/15 Lead dog
Hidden 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
David Staples 26/Apr/15 Lead dog

Fell off at the top. Smear gave way. Gutted!

martin one 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Markus
philhaigh 04/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Aarron Schofield, Barry Kerslake, Mel Dodge, Gem Minihan
Gem Minihan 04/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 15/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
Hidden 28/Sep/14 -
Giles Davis 28/Sep/14 TR O/S

Really nice route, not sure why I didn't lead it.

Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead
will black 24/Aug/14 Lead β

Great route, easy up until the end.

Alex N-R 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Will and Dan
Chris Sansum 23/Aug/14 TR O/S

On top rope at the end of the day.

with Ramsey Villanueva
Hannah Brading 23/Aug/14 2nd RP
bigdrew 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Eve
eel 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Andy J
nacnud 09/Aug/14 Lead
with Ed Ratcliffe
Gem Minihan 14/Jul/14 TR O/S
with Steve Hau, Shamina Kapadia, Phil Haigh
pymn nice but dim 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S

cool lower half, roof into pockets followed by great flake cruxy last move

JUSTADUDE 06/Jun/14 Lead rpt

So good I had to do it again =]

with Pymn
JUSTADUDE 03/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Amazing climb. Nice and varied, easy to flow from move to move.

dbrooks 25/May/14 Lead O/S

great crack climb, loved it!

with John
Hidden 25/May/14 TR dnf
AlexD 05/May/14 Lead rpt
with Ed
ThomasB ?/May/14 Lead O/S
BenL 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
RKirke 30/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Abi Chard 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Ian
Hidden 16/Mar/14 Lead β
Luke Dawson 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Cat Hendrie 11/Mar/14 Lead O/S
sarpedon 08/Mar/14 Lead rpt

Great warm-up.

Hidden 07/Mar/14 Lead
josh Bamsey 02/Mar/14 Lead O/S

amazing climb

sarpedon 01/Mar/14 Lead dog

Last climb, held on to the quickdraw at the anchors to clip. Tough finish, amazing route.

Ben J ??/2014 Lead dog
trev_f 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
philhaigh 20/Sep/13 Lead rpt
nataliehaigh 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Mel Dodge, Phil Haigh
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Dan_F 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Good fun route steady climbing, wanted to break left but missed the line.. Still good route used the mono to clip the lower off ...

with Ben jones, Markmclimby
skunky456 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
taff raymond 11/May/13 TR O/S
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
drcorbasisgod 23/Apr/13 Lead RP
Anastasia 20/Apr/13 Lead dog
robajob 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
dan gibson 19/Apr/13 Lead rpt
tsyrett 01/Apr/13 TR O/S
DorsetGareth 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant! But a tricky finish.

AndyMcCoy 31/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Bill
Joe Innes 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S
burto 20/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with steve
Beefy Bert ??/2013 Lead O/S
Jobbo 28/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Leon. D
philhaigh 27/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Mike Gubbins, Mike Hawkins, Jane Weir, Mel Dodge, Natalie Haigh
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/12 Lead RP
andrew hammond 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Brian H 26/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Andrew Hammond
LeahJamie 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Ian Bell
Hidden 18/Aug/12 Lead RP
Ian Bell 18/Aug/12 Lead β

Warm up repeat

with Leah
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Linc 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
rustaldo 19/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Mostly easy with a tricky last move at the top. Felt soft for the grade.

Jordon Fleming 19/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with matt
Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Ali.B 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Last pitch where it really kicks in, not helped by missing/reduced handhold, consequently, it should be bumped up a grade.

lucachitara 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Good fun, not more than 6a+. Last move is brilliant.

Tomar 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Marti999 06/Apr/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Marti999 10/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Marti999 24/Feb/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Jan/12 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Jan/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Jan/12 Lead rpt
Toby Dunn 23/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Jon Emmet
Jonathan Emett 23/Nov/11 Lead rpt
with toby
Dan_Carroll 07/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Mateusz
rowanrs 16/Oct/11 Lead dog

Easy up to last move. Still need to work on stamina over the longer pitches alot though.

with Ali Graham
RFWilkie 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S

6a+ max very easy climbing with a tricky finish.

Kevster 09/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Ian Bell 02/Oct/11 Lead β

Nice route, lead once before 2 or 3 years ago. Felt much easier this time. Couple of hard moves at the top but the rest is easy. Overhanging flake part is thuggy and fun.

with Eva
dswansonlow 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Dougie
tomB 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Jody
dan gibson 22/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with julie carroll
Julie Carroll 21/Sep/11 Lead β
with Dan Gibson
Hidden 21/Aug/11 TR
kirsten 30/Jul/11 2nd

3/4 of it!

lewiz 30/Jul/11 Lead

Not quite OS due to grabbing a bolt after fumbling trying to clip. Wish I'd known the top was easy to grab :(

Owen W-G 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Moves from the final bolt to LO is nails. Crucial hold was wobbling so palmed mostly. Sketchy final clip.

with Jim
jgordon75 09/Jul/11 Lead dog

Lazy rest

Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead
ekaterina sigida 17/Apr/11 2nd

the last rout of the day - absolutely amaizing in the sunset. Amaizing guggy flake most of the way up with a rediculously blank top that i couldn't really do.

with rob daughtery
LeahJamie 09/Apr/11 Lead
with Ian Bell
Saurus 27/Mar/11 2nd dog

Stunning route, just ran out of steam topping out of the slightly overhung/steep flake - stunning layback climbing leading to an airy, precarious, balancy, committing, finish (with a potentially looonng fall if you don't stick it!).

Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead RP
barfani chita 26/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Saurus
wi11 17/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Nat
Jonathan Emett 05/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Paul
Alex More 05/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Ed babs
La Mont 30/Jan/11 Lead rpt
Wil Treasure 22/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Brian H 09/Jan/11 Lead
Hawkscry ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
dswansonlow 10/Nov/10 Lead O/S
jacobjlloyd 10/Nov/10 Lead β
with Dougie
mlg678 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 19/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with crispin
Justin T 19/Sep/10 Lead

Draws in, grabbed draw at belay...

Hidden 17/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Kopinski 06/Jul/10 Lead dog
brices 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S
will9911 ?/Jun/10 -
with Fabian
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead O/S
Barry Kerslake 22/May/10 Lead rpt
with Steve H
Hidden 25/Apr/10 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Apr/10 Lead O/S
nacnud 17/Apr/10 Lead β
nacnud 15/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Marcus Boal
Hidden 15/Apr/10 Lead
natalietanzer 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Ed
philhaigh 10/Apr/10 Lead RP
Hidden 07/Mar/10 2nd
brian watson 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jan/10 TR rpt
Hidden 30/Jan/10 Lead O/S
LukeyG ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 09/Sep/09 Lead β
eugeneth 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with James V
London Luke ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Luke d 05/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/09 Lead dog
Hidden 02/May/09 Lead
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead
GarethHall 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
garywong 21/Mar/09 Lead dog

Had to rest before very last move... annoyed, but fun route.

Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead β
Jane Weir ??/2009 Lead
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
vertigo 07/Dec/08 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 07/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with Rich
Ed Babs 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
BenNorman ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with kev norman
schof 04/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with joel perry
Hidden 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Paz 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S


with WG
Hidden 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 25/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Really good romp!

with John Marsland
John Marsland 25/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with Goi
Graham Westbrook ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Tom Heslam ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Ed Heslam
Rik Dawes ??/2008 Lead O/S
sam_cox ?/Dec/07 Lead
tobydunford 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/07 Lead RP
ecowaller 17/Mar/07 Lead
with Paula
ASchwirtz 10/Mar/07 Lead dnf

last move stopped me

Olivia Hartnett ??/2007 TR dog

One rest before top move

with Rob Gates
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 18/Nov/06 Lead O/S
a_radiohead_fan ?/Aug/06 -
Hidden 07/May/06 Lead O/S
Jus ?/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead O/S
bigie bob 29/Jan/06 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
feeko ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead dnf
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Mark Stevenson 20/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Derek Furze ??/2005 Lead
Richard Horn ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Mark A Humphries 22/Mar/03 Lead β
with dean howard
John Southworth 15/Feb/03 Lead O/S
with Jason Parker
just one more 21/Apr/02 Lead
with Svenn G
Billg ?/Mar/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/01 Lead O/S
AlexD 21/Apr/01 Lead
Robmwatt ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/1998 -
12 users have this on their wishlist
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 60
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set