27m.

Rockfax Description
Fine climbing with the crux in the final groove giving a sustained section of thin climbing. Low in the grade. Start below a cave at 3m and climb up passing it on its left. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Robertson 19/Apr/1998

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland, Portland 7a/+, CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

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UserDateNotes
Guy Maccdox 31 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Initially I climbed Babelicious Redhead by mistake. There is another route to the right - Chasing the Sun, 6c+ - not listed in the 2000 Rockfax, so it is an easy mistake if you simply count the lines of bolts). This could explain why some people find TTB veryeasy. It isn't remotely pumpy but is very thin.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Initially I climbed Babelicious Redhead by mistake. There is another route to the right - Chasing the Sun, 6c+ - not listed in the 2000 Rockfax, so it is an easy mistake if you simply count the lines of bolts). This could explain why some people find TTB veryeasy. It isn't remotely pumpy but is very thin.
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Tomas P 20 Jun Lead O/S
with Summer, Aelita
with Summer, Aelita
tonevert 5 May Lead O/S
with Paloma
with Paloma
tonevert 4 May Lead dog
with Paloma
with Paloma
Wil Treasure 14 Apr Lead dog Slipped off the thin crux. A really good route.
with Lorne
Slipped off the thin crux. A really good route.
with Lorne
GerryWall 11 Apr Lead dnf It was hot, I was heavy and I’d just sent Wolfgang Forever. But ......bottom line, I just couldn’t pull the move through last 2 crimps!
It was hot, I was heavy and I’d just sent Wolfgang Forever. But ......bottom line, I just couldn’t pull the move through last 2 crimps!
Ben.o.neill 24 Feb Lead RP
Kev Little 23 Feb Lead rpt
with aiyer
with aiyer
aiyer 23 Feb Lead RP It's all in the top 5 meters... very nearly flashed!
It's all in the top 5 meters... very nearly flashed!
S.Kew 11 Feb Lead O/S
Spatchcock 11 Feb Lead
with S.Kew
with S.Kew
Lukechandler 4 Jan Lead RP This one has tormented me for a while. Nice to finally get the tick
This one has tormented me for a while. Nice to finally get the tick
Spatchcock ?? Lead
afterthesend 30 Dec, 2018 Lead RP 1st rp
1st rp
Qisheng Xie 21 Oct, 2018 Lead RP Crux is like yoga!
Crux is like yoga!
Hidden 14 Sep, 2018 Lead RP
Hidden 25 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
marcduhig 20 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with Edward W
with Edward W
chris85 ?Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
nacnud 14 Jul, 2018 Lead dog
with Ed Wigmore
with Ed Wigmore
Matt77 17 Jun, 2018 Lead RP Tried once before in Oct 2016. 2nd go today.
with Tom Riddelsdell
Tried once before in Oct 2016. 2nd go today.
with Tom Riddelsdell
TomRiddelsdell 17 Jun, 2018 Lead dnf
with Matt77
with Matt77
Phil Davidson 5 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Steve Challoner
with Steve Challoner
Tutu 20 May, 2018 Lead dog Nearly flashed, fumbled a bit after the crux, just needed to upgrade my left foot to get the good sidepull but missed the hold. Was disappointed!
Nearly flashed, fumbled a bit after the crux, just needed to upgrade my left foot to get the good sidepull but missed the hold. Was disappointed!
adamsriches 20 May, 2018 Lead dog Struggled with the crux...
with Tutu
Struggled with the crux...
with Tutu
Q.Estelles 5 May, 2018 Lead G/U
Dandan 1 Apr, 2018 Lead rpt
Carnie Lisa 1 Apr, 2018 2nd β What a stunning route, chuffed to pieces to do this 1st try!
with Dan Verge
What a stunning route, chuffed to pieces to do this 1st try!
with Dan Verge
julesmckim 15 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S Felt steady to the upper groove with good footholds to stand around on and assess the next sections. Great crimps on stuck on flakes at the top. Pretty intense finish.
with Rob Smart
Felt steady to the upper groove with good footholds to stand around on and assess the next sections. Great crimps on stuck on flakes at the top. Pretty intense finish.
with Rob Smart
Alex N-R 23 Dec, 2017 Lead O/S
rockafunked 4 Nov, 2017 Lead dog Can't work out the crux sequence!
Can't work out the crux sequence!
Rocky 15 Oct, 2017 Lead RP Went back in the morning and led it as my warm up! Really stoked at how quickly I did it and without warming up. Climbed it with all the grace and finesse of a lame duck, but it's the winning that counts, right?
with Llin
Went back in the morning and led it as my warm up! Really stoked at how quickly I did it and without warming up. Climbed it with all the grace and finesse of a lame duck, but it's the winning that counts, right?
with Llin
Rocky 14 Oct, 2017 TR RP Llin and I jumped on this to warm up thinking it was a 7A. Should have known that our terrible navigation skills throughout the day would have extended to route finding. Turned out to be a 7A+. Really thin section at the top and so wussed it and top roped it first. First top rope go felt hard. Only had time for a second top rope go and did it clean. I should have lead it!!
with Llin
Llin and I jumped on this to warm up thinking it was a 7A. Should have known that our terrible navigation skills throughout the day would have extended to route finding. Turned out to be a 7A+. Really thin section at the top and so wussed it and top roped it first. First top rope go felt hard. Only had time for a second top rope go and did it clean. I should have lead it!!
with Llin
Hidden 2 Sep, 2017 Lead dog
samparsons 7 Aug, 2017 Lead RP Tough 7a+ the top is pretty hard! First tried 7 Jul 2016
Tough 7a+ the top is pretty hard! First tried 7 Jul 2016
WillGW 5 Aug, 2017 Lead dnf Got around 3 bolts from the top and called it a day. My fingers were not enjoying the thin rock.
Got around 3 bolts from the top and called it a day. My fingers were not enjoying the thin rock.
quiffhanger 25 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Rachel
with Rachel
rachelvlc 2 Jun, 2017 Lead β
littleluke 2 Jun, 2017 Lead
Hidden ?Jun, 2017 -
nimajneb ?May, 2017 Lead O/S
gem_stone12 ?May, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Apr, 2017 Lead dog
Russell Blackaller 5 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
with Tom N
with Tom N
Hidden 27 Mar, 2017 Lead
brian watson 4 Dec, 2016 Lead O/S First onsighted 7a+, thin balancey moves !
First onsighted 7a+, thin balancey moves !
afrosam 31 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
emdawes 29 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
with Larey
with Larey
Hidden 29 Oct, 2016 Lead dog
Matt77 22 Oct, 2016 Lead dog Had one go to work out the crimpy sequence. Will go next time!
Had one go to work out the crimpy sequence. Will go next time!
Hidden 16 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
RebekkaB 23 Jul, 2016 TR dnf
with Vince
with Vince
Vince 23 Jul, 2016 Lead dog
Hidden 12 Jun, 2016 Lead rpt
Hidden 4 Jun, 2016 Lead RP
jamesb101 31 May, 2016 Lead dog Felt doable
Felt doable
Hidden 29 May, 2016 Lead dog
ThomasB 7 May, 2016 Lead β retroflash
retroflash
Ian Bell 30 Apr, 2016 Lead rpt 2nd go this time
with Tania T
2nd go this time
with Tania T
ChrisDavis 17 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
with Ela
with Ela
artmal 2 Apr, 2016 Lead RP 2nd go
2nd go
tommccluskey 13 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
RFWilkie 25 Jul, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 25 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 29 May, 2015 Lead O/S
JackMac 28 May, 2015 Lead dog Fell a couple of inches from the end of the crux. Subsequent attempts only got worse :(
with BC
Fell a couple of inches from the end of the crux. Subsequent attempts only got worse :(
with BC
JackMac 9 May, 2015 Lead dog Very easy climbing apart from the short crux on very small holds. Felt easier than Portland heights to me. I imagine with the right crux beta it would RP easily.
with BC
Very easy climbing apart from the short crux on very small holds. Felt easier than Portland heights to me. I imagine with the right crux beta it would RP easily.
with BC
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 15 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
dominic lee 15 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
with andy elliot
with andy elliot
Viki Claudia Harvey ??, 2015 Lead O/S Nice route, managed it onsight (flash?), but only because Rachel put the clips in and did it first.
with Rachel Keys
Nice route, managed it onsight (flash?), but only because Rachel put the clips in and did it first.
with Rachel Keys
lewiz 29 Nov, 2014 Lead dog Wasted energy clipping a pointless bolt near the top. Nice route though :-)
Wasted energy clipping a pointless bolt near the top. Nice route though :-)
Bristoldave 14 Nov, 2014 Lead O/S
with Luke
with Luke
AlexD 7 Jul, 2014 Lead β
with Shamina
with Shamina
Pete Scott 13 Jun, 2014 Lead RP
stp 25 May, 2014 Lead O/S Sharp and lacking a definite line. Crux felt more like a 6c+.
with Alan - old
Sharp and lacking a definite line. Crux felt more like a 6c+.
with Alan - old
philhaigh 5 May, 2014 Lead RP
with Shamina
with Shamina
philhaigh 19 Apr, 2014 2nd RP
with Aarron Schofield, Vicki Hau, Mike Gubbins, Mike Hawkins, melD, EddyYoung
with Aarron Schofield, Vicki Hau, Mike Gubbins, Mike Hawkins, melD, EddyYoung
BenL 30 Mar, 2014 Lead RP
with RKirke
with RKirke
Luke Dawson 15 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S Got to love the crux holds
with Chas
Got to love the crux holds
with Chas
Hidden 30 Nov, 2013 TR dog
Ian Bell 31 Aug, 2013 TR dog One fall at the crux passing the bulge. very thin and sharp, not very pleasant.
with Andrea
One fall at the crux passing the bulge. very thin and sharp, not very pleasant.
with Andrea
Hidden 5 Jul, 2013 Lead dog
brices 30 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S amazing technical climbing
amazing technical climbing
Kevster 29 Mar, 2013 Lead RP 2nd go, cornflakes!
2nd go, cornflakes!
burto 20 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S
with steve
with steve
Hidden 15 Feb, 2013 Lead β
Hidden 3 Aug, 2012 Lead dog
JHM 23 May, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 May, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 May, 2012 TR dnf
La Mont 25 Mar, 2012 Lead rpt
Toby Dunn 20 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
with Lyndsay Hilton
with Lyndsay Hilton
dannyboy83 26 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
tom106 6 May, 2011 Lead dog stupidly fell at last clip, way too hot to give it a redpoint, really good route though.
with laura
stupidly fell at last clip, way too hot to give it a redpoint, really good route though.
with laura
MarkRyder 1 May, 2011 Lead RP
with Ivan M
with Ivan M
Tomar 19 Mar, 2011 Lead β Flash. Clips in and a bit of beta from Ollie. Epic climbing
with OliBee
Flash. Clips in and a bit of beta from Ollie. Epic climbing
with OliBee
Hidden 14 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
jgustafsson 13 Mar, 2011 Lead RP Pretty much onsight - I think I had a play on toprope 1.5 yrs ago, but don't think I even got to the top. This time it felt pretty easy, certainly easy for the grade.
with Pino
Pretty much onsight - I think I had a play on toprope 1.5 yrs ago, but don't think I even got to the top. This time it felt pretty easy, certainly easy for the grade.
with Pino
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 3 Mar, 2011 Lead dog
with Harry Massey
with Harry Massey
Hawkscry ??, 2011 -
clipskipper 10 Oct, 2010 TR dog First route at the grade and very tough going towards the top - small sharp crimps on the crux section.
with Dave (Robins?)
First route at the grade and very tough going towards the top - small sharp crimps on the crux section.
with Dave (Robins?)
dan gibson 9 Oct, 2010 Lead RP
Hidden 9 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
La benya 25 Sep, 2010 Lead β felt easier than last rose, probably because i wasnt putting clips in, the top of this is awesome, technical, delicate on tiny holds
felt easier than last rose, probably because i wasnt putting clips in, the top of this is awesome, technical, delicate on tiny holds
Justin T 19 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S Got on this by mistake thinking it was Last Rose ... felt pretty thin toward the top.
Got on this by mistake thinking it was Last Rose ... felt pretty thin toward the top.
Dandan ?Jun, 2010 Lead rpt
with Lard
with Lard
Hidden ?Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 31 May, 2010 Lead β
Dandan 9 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with Lard
with Lard
Hidden 17 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
nacnud 17 Apr, 2010 Lead dog
natalietanzer 17 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with Duncan
with Duncan
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Ed Babs 31 Oct, 2009 Lead RP flash
with Mike Hawkins
flash
with Mike Hawkins
eddieclimb 22 May, 2009 Lead O/S
with Rebecca Edwards
with Rebecca Edwards
irenemil 2 May, 2009 Lead rpt
with Pino
with Pino
Jane Weir 15 Mar, 2009 Lead
Billg 14 Feb, 2009 Lead O/S
with SeanyC
with SeanyC
SeanyC ?Feb, 2009 Lead dog
nealh ??, 2009 Lead
Hidden ??, 2009 Lead RP
feilx 6 Dec, 2008 Lead rpt
with Rich Dagner
with Rich Dagner
schof 17 Aug, 2008 Lead RP
with joel perry
with joel perry
Martin Krasnansky 28 May, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 20 May, 2008 Lead RP
feilx 16 Feb, 2008 Lead O/S
Richard Horn 21 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
bigie bob 20 Oct, 2006 Lead O/S
Jus ?May, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Mar, 2006 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??, 2006 Lead
Marti999 ??, 2006 Lead
Hidden 25 Apr, 2004 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??, 2004 Lead RP
Mark Stevenson 22 Mar, 2003 2nd dog
with Geraldine Taylor
with Geraldine Taylor
John Southworth 22 Mar, 2003 Lead O/S
with Jason Parker
with Jason Parker
AlexD ??, 2003 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 2000 -
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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set