Rockfax Description
Fine climbing with the crux in the final groove giving a sustained section of thin climbing. Low in the grade. Start below a cave at 3m and climb up passing it on its left. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Robertson 19/Apr/1998

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland.

Alex N-R 23/Dec/17 Lead O/S
rockafunked 04/Nov/17 Lead dog

Can't work out the crux sequence!

Rocky 15/Oct/17 Lead RP

Went back in the morning and led it as my warm up! Really stoked at how quickly I did it and without warming up. Climbed it with all the grace and finesse of a lame duck, but it's the winning that counts, right?

with Llin
Rocky 14/Oct/17 TR RP

Llin and I jumped on this to warm up thinking it was a 7A. Should have known that our terrible navigation skills throughout the day would have extended to route finding. Turned out to be a 7A+. Really thin section at the top and so wussed it and top roped it first. First top rope go felt hard. Only had time for a second top rope go and did it clean. I should have lead it!!

with Llin
Hidden 02/Sep/17 Lead dog
samparsons 07/Aug/17 Lead RP

Tough 7a+ the top is pretty hard! First tried 7 Jul 2016

WillGW 05/Aug/17 Lead dnf

Got around 3 bolts from the top and called it a day. My fingers were not enjoying the thin rock.

quiffhanger 25/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Rachel
rachelvlc 02/Jun/17 Lead β
with Luke
littleluke 02/Jun/17 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/17 -
gem_stone12 ?/May/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/17 Lead dog
Hidden 23/Apr/17 Lead dog
Russell Blackaller 05/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Tom N
Hidden 27/Mar/17 Lead
brian watson 04/Dec/16 Lead O/S

First onsighted 7a+, thin balancey moves !

with Jane
afrosam 31/Oct/16 Lead O/S
emdawes 29/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Oct/16 Lead dog
Matt77 22/Oct/16 Lead dog

Had one go to work out the crimpy sequence. Will go next time!

with Owen
Macca_7 16/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Much the same as Last Rose.. however perhaps a bit more sustained with some good moves to get into the groove and up it!

with Steve Pack
RebekkaB 23/Jul/16 TR dnf
with Vince
Vince 23/Jul/16 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Jun/16 Lead rpt
Linc 04/Jun/16 Lead RP
jamesb101 31/May/16 Lead dog

Felt doable

Linc 29/May/16 Lead dog
with Kay
ThomasB 07/May/16 Lead β


Ian Bell 30/Apr/16 Lead rpt

2nd go this time

with Tania T
Hidden 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S
artmal 02/Apr/16 Lead RP

2nd go

tommccluskey 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Jess, Petar
RFWilkie 25/Jul/15 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 29/May/15 Lead O/S
with Helen
JackMac 28/May/15 Lead dog

Fell a couple of inches from the end of the crux. Subsequent attempts only got worse :(

JackMac 09/May/15 Lead dog

Very easy climbing apart from the short crux on very small holds. Felt easier than Portland heights to me. I imagine with the right crux beta it would RP easily.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 15/Mar/15 Lead O/S
dominic lee 15/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with andy elliot
Viki Claudia Harvey ??/2015 Lead O/S

Nice route, managed it onsight (flash?), but only because Rachel put the clips in and did it first.

with Rachel Keys
lewiz 29/Nov/14 Lead dog

Wasted energy clipping a pointless bolt near the top. Nice route though :-)

Bristoldave 14/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Luke
AlexD 07/Jul/14 Lead β
with Shamina
Pete Scott 13/Jun/14 Lead RP
stp 25/May/14 Lead O/S

Sharp and lacking a definite line. Crux felt more like a 6c+.

with Alan
philhaigh 05/May/14 Lead RP
with Shamina Kapadia
philhaigh 19/Apr/14 2nd RP
with Aarron Schofield, Vicki Hau, Mike Gubbins, Mike Hawkins, Mel Dodge, Eddy Young
BenL 30/Mar/14 Lead RP
Luke Dawson 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Got to love the crux holds

Hidden 30/Nov/13 TR dog
Ian Bell 31/Aug/13 TR dog

One fall at the crux passing the bulge. very thin and sharp, not very pleasant.

with Andrea
Hidden 05/Jul/13 Lead dog
brices 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S

amazing technical climbing

Kevster 29/Mar/13 Lead RP

2nd go, cornflakes!

burto 20/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with steve
Hidden 15/Feb/13 Lead β
Hidden 03/Aug/12 Lead dog
Jeronimo 23/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/12 TR dnf
La Mont 25/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Toby Dunn 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Lyndsay Hilton
dannyboy83 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Dougie
tom106 06/May/11 Lead dog

stupidly fell at last clip, way too hot to give it a redpoint, really good route though.

with laura
MarkRyder 01/May/11 Lead RP
with Ivan M
Tomar 19/Mar/11 Lead β

Flash. Clips in and a bit of beta from Ollie. Epic climbing

Hidden 14/Mar/11 Lead O/S
jgustafsson 13/Mar/11 Lead RP

Pretty much onsight - I think I had a play on toprope 1.5 yrs ago, but don't think I even got to the top. This time it felt pretty easy, certainly easy for the grade.

with Pino
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 03/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Harry Massey
Hawkscry ??/2011 -
clipskipper 10/Oct/10 TR dog

First route at the grade and very tough going towards the top - small sharp crimps on the crux section.

with Dave (Robins?)
dan gibson 09/Oct/10 Lead RP
with michael porter
Hidden 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
La benya 25/Sep/10 Lead β

felt easier than last rose, probably because i wasnt putting clips in, the top of this is awesome, technical, delicate on tiny holds

Justin T 19/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Got on this by mistake thinking it was Last Rose ... felt pretty thin toward the top.

Dandan82 ?/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead β
Dandan82 09/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
nacnud 17/Apr/10 Lead dog
natalietanzer 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Duncan
Hidden ??/2010 -
Ed Babs 31/Oct/09 Lead RP


with Mike Hawkins
eddieclimb 22/May/09 Lead O/S
with Rebecca Edwards
irenemil 02/May/09 Lead rpt
with Pino
Jane Weir 15/Mar/09 Lead
Billg 14/Feb/09 Lead O/S
SeanyC ?/Feb/09 Lead dog
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 Lead RP
feilx 06/Dec/08 Lead rpt
with Rich Dagner
schof 17/Aug/08 Lead RP
with joel perry
Martin Krasnansky 28/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/08 Lead RP
feilx 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Tiff
Richard Horn 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S
bigie bob 20/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Jus ?/May/06 Lead O/S
LC ?/Mar/06 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden 25/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead RP
Mark Stevenson 22/Mar/03 2nd dog
with Geraldine Taylor
John Southworth 22/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Jason Parker
AlexD ??/2003 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
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Votes cast 34
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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