UKC

Restricted Access

Please avoid damaging fences - use the stiles provided. Historically there were access problems here, partially as a result of liability concerns and also due to damage to fences, but these appear to be resolved at this time.

There has been significant rock fall across this area over the past few years, climbers should check the route and be aware of more collapsing rock. Routes that have been affected are Septuagenarian, Guillotine, Wusty Wolf and possibly the start of Fool’s Gold.

 

 

45m. A rising leftwards traverse of the slab following the line of weakness at half height.
As for Gnat Attack, carefully to it's first bolt (at 12m!), now creep leftwards past Massambula , Meltdown, Virgin on the Ridiculous and Buzz Stop to finish up Scarlet Runner.
This rarely repeated adventure provides a long pitch with potential for big pendulums, also it crosses the main seepage line of the crag with it's damp vegetation so it is best to wait for a dry spell.

A Moss, K Neal Mar/1987.

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User Date Notes
Mark@66 6 Feb, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The 1990 guide book (Nick Harms) suggested there would be bolt runners where you cross Massambula and Virgin on.... with a total of 5 in all on the route. Hope you get lucky.
Show beta
βeta: The 1990 guide book (Nick Harms) suggested there would be bolt runners where you cross Massambula and Virgin on.... with a total of 5 in all on the route. Hope you get lucky.

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Guidebooks for Bus Stop Quarry

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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Route of Interest
Vulture

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Cilan Head)

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