Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Rockfax Description
A beautiful pitch at the grade - great rock, moves and position. © Rockfax
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland for the beginner (lead climbs) , Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below , 4 - 5 Grade Climbs Portland Westcoast , Portland sub 6b , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , LSMC to do , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West (Sport) , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pawel W | 23 Nov, 2022 |
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βeta: Fantastic. Very good for beginners. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fantastic. Very good for beginners. |
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| mwh | 30 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: Fantastic, but then I like this sort of thing. Where are the 6a slab routes? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Fantastic, but then I like this sort of thing. Where are the 6a slab routes? |
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| Alan James - Rockfax | 23 Jun, 2000 |
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βeta: They were bolted by keen activists who knew nothing of the trad lines and they are now very popular. It doesn't excuse it, and popularity is not always a justification for bolting, but I think it is wrong to say there is plenty of other rock to bolt, certainly at this grade there isn't. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: They were bolted by keen activists who knew nothing of the trad lines and they are now very popular. It doesn't excuse it, and popularity is not always a justification for bolting, but I think it is wrong to say there is plenty of other rock to bolt, certainly at this grade there isn't. |
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| andygb | 21 Jun, 2000 |
Show βeta
βeta: Why were routes on this slab bolted? They were climbed with traditional gear and there\'s enough other rock to bolt without retro bolting | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Why were routes on this slab bolted? They were climbed with traditional gear and there's enough other rock to bolt without retro bolting |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Beach
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Right-hand Route
Grade: 3a ***
(Blacknor Beach)