UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

20m.

Rockfax Description
Pleasant climbing with an impressive finish. Climb the tricky initial wall to the roof. Take this head-on to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson, Phl Gibson, Hazel Gibson 07/May/2003.

Ticklists

Portland , Portland road to 7a , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
Climber_Bill 26 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Nice one Jimbo, it's usually me who breaks of holds. Hence the oft said "That looks a bit loose, let's send up Rich first".
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice one Jimbo, it's usually me who breaks of holds. Hence the oft said "That looks a bit loose, let's send up Rich first".
JIMBO 25 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A bit cleaner still after a large section of the lower chert collapsed beneath my feet...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A bit cleaner still after a large section of the lower chert collapsed beneath my feet...
Mark Glaister - Assistant Editor 29 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Now fairly clean. Start just right of first bolt and pull steeply up left to a good chert jug.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Now fairly clean. Start just right of first bolt and pull steeply up left to a good chert jug.
Climber_Bill 18 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Should clean up as this rock usually does. The top is very good. However, the bottom half is very tight to the routes either side.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Should clean up as this rock usually does. The top is very good. However, the bottom half is very tight to the routes either side.
Ben Stokes 14 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A bit friable and snappy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A bit friable and snappy.

Logged Ascents

67 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 5 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Opposites Attract

Grade: 6c ***
(Wallsend South)

Loading Notifications...