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The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

20m.

Rockfax Description
Another vertical challenge taking a gritstone-like sequence up the ramp. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker 23/Apr/1989.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Classic Portland 7as (2* +) , Jurassic 7a , Portland , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Olympian

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jus 5 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Hard to do those bouldery moves on the ramp when you're pumped stupid and the rock is damp, even with the big rest! The fingery shelly stuff just above is tricky but your feet are solid. It felt hard for 7a, but it was the end of the day - so 7a is probably right.
βeta?
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βeta: Hard to do those bouldery moves on the ramp when you're pumped stupid and the rock is damp, even with the big rest! The fingery shelly stuff just above is tricky but your feet are solid. It felt hard for 7a, but it was the end of the day - so 7a is probably right.
Ben Thorne 2 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with Goi. Found fingering through the shells above the rock-over incredibly hard. To the point at which I still haven't found the best sequence for me. I'm 5'8" by the way.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agree with Goi. Found fingering through the shells above the rock-over incredibly hard. To the point at which I still haven't found the best sequence for me. I'm 5'8" by the way.
Alan James - Rockfax 31 Oct, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: This route is a classic example of why you can't grade for the pure onsight. It is very easy to muck up and also easy to accidentally get right. If you get it right it really isn't that hard but while you are teetering on the little ramp you can muck it up and make it feel much harder. However it has to be graded for the climber getting it right on their onsight which the day I was there at least two people did and another two didn't.
βeta?
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βeta: This route is a classic example of why you can't grade for the pure onsight. It is very easy to muck up and also easy to accidentally get right. If you get it right it really isn't that hard but while you are teetering on the little ramp you can muck it up and make it feel much harder. However it has to be graded for the climber getting it right on their onsight which the day I was there at least two people did and another two didn't.
tomrainbow 14 Sep, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: I might have mucked up the sequence, but this seemed very hard for 7a - it felt 7a to the crux and then got harder!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I might have mucked up the sequence, but this seemed very hard for 7a - it felt 7a to the crux and then got harder!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 36
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Medusa Falls

Grade: 7a ***
(Blacknor South)

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