30m. A climb on the golden wall behind the large pinnacle to the right of the Tonight at Noon cave.

Climb the easy groove between the pinnacles as for Harmony, but turn right and enter the dark confines of the crevasse. Back and foot until reaching the broad and flat top of the largest pinnacle. On the first ascent, a rope was wrapped around the small tower for a belay, but with care, it should be possible to climb as a single pitch. Pull onto the wall using large holds in good pockets. A long reach up finds more good holds. Go left for a few moves to a good pocket and gear. Another long reach up, to small, but positive holds, and the sticky out peg (Old peg removed and replaced 2020, but it's still best to tie off). Crimpy moves, left, then up, lead to the good hold beneath a poor blade peg (replaced with new, but short and not very deep peg in 2020, also best to tie off. There is also a good cam in a pocket and possible slider nut in a very shallow pocket between the pegs). A small crimp, somewhere up and left will be used by most to make hard moves up and right, until a good flat hold, further right, can be reached. Big holds of the ledge can now be reached. Climb the slanting groove on the wall above (old peg but other gear available) to the top.

A better and more direct start at the same grade (E5 6b) and avoiding the crevasse and possible rope trouble, or belay, has been done by climbing the start of Harmless (Bold for the Harmony start, but good gear afterwards, all the way to the massive crozzly pocket) into the massive crozzly pocket and out to join the original line somewhere between the two pegs and then following the original line.

Chris Parkin, I A Jones. Direct start, (1.7.20) Nick Bullock. Jul/1993.

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