Rockfax Description
A strong line and popular pitch. Move up the initial wall to the corner proper, then climb to beneath the roof. Traverse rightwards along the horizontal break and make a steep move up to a jug. Linking into the last moves of Wurlitzer Jukebox is 6c. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 17/Dec/1988

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Orange Spot Portland, Portland sub 6b, Portland.

Stewart_o 123 09/Nov/17 Lead G/U
rocksound 05/Nov/17 Lead O/S
with Alister
rocksound 28/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Sean
S.Kew 28/Oct/17 Lead rpt
edbrooks9 15/Oct/17 Lead dnf
dean_c88 15/Oct/17 Lead O/S

Finish easy but run out for the grade

with Ed
cem 30/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Paul Baxter 30/Sep/17 Lead dog

Hard work after a long break. Arms just not strong enough to sustain this (otherwise very nice) route

Kayface42 17/Sep/17 Lead RP
with Si
Linc 17/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with Kay
Hidden 01/Sep/17 Lead rpt
Ian Bell 19/Aug/17 Lead rpt
StrongDan 06/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S
RangerMcFreindly 05/Aug/17 Lead β
julesmckim 16/Jul/17 Lead O/S

a bit greasy at the top

with Antonina Lach
Hidden 15/Jul/17 Lead dog
Fakey Rocks 05/Jul/17 Lead rpt
S.Kew 05/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Rich
Charlie Zephyr Booth 30/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with lisa wharton
ssutton 25/Jun/17 Lead

Great line, but a bit greasy/polished

with Stu
Carnie Lisa 25/Jun/17 2nd β
with Dan Verge
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 19/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Callum, Rich Fox
RFWilkie 17/Jun/17 Lead rpt
Thinker01 17/Jun/17 Lead rpt
Lessworkmoreclimbing 10/Jun/17 -
with Kev
Fakey Rocks 04/Jun/17 Lead RP

Got it on 1st go since last w.e. Very chuffed. Got through bolt 3 to 4 ok, where i previously struggled a bit, but still damp in the crack line above, doable though, hesitated a while with the short trav rt into the top section, but realised it was good holds once i got going.

Fakey Rocks 29/May/17 Lead dnf

The spacing between the knots on some of the descent ropes is crazy, knots, unlike bolts, don't cost anything! Making a loop knot is much safer too. One rope, 1st battleship descent, needs replacing, sheaf gone, 1 meter of core exposed. I'll bring an old rope next time, to replace, but won't b 4 a while. Been raining night b4, forecast ok, but drizzle turned to light rain. Felt steep, i struggled between bolt 2 + 3, a foot popped off (polish) with 1 hold to go to next bolt, i didn't fall, but down climbed to the rest, about 4 times, + gave in. Parner got to bolt 4 but found it wet above, + called it a day. Fog rolled in, but kind of dry fog! I walked cliff top to the lighthouse n back, checking descents, to look at crags, bottled out at top of 45' mud slide for c.g. north, scary pulling out on muddy rope, finally went down via wallsend north, boulder hopped to coastguard north, looking at routes, esp trad free world + stalkers, escaped via coastguard south rope. Left at 9pm, Very covered in clay / mud ;l

with acking
tobydunford 27/May/17 Lead rpt
with Oli
patrickcd 20/May/17 Lead O/S
with Luke
Luke_92 20/May/17 Lead dog
with Patrick
helkay 14/May/17 Lead O/S

Great! Requires holding your nerves at the top

rachelvlc 14/May/17 Lead
with Luke
littleluke 14/May/17 Lead
hfotheri 15/Apr/17 Lead O/S
ella.thorne5 09/Apr/17 Lead O/S
LukeWS 02/Apr/17 Lead dnf

Was going really well until I ended up on the the 6c+ finish by accident - need to repeat one day!

with Ben Gilbert
dbottomley 29/Dec/16 Lead O/S
partz 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S

One star

Owen Davies ?/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/16 TR dog
chris_woodsy 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Widdaz
Ash Sayers 26/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Sarah Pashley 26/Aug/16 Lead O/S
jsmcfarland 10/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Actually quite a good climb though it looks a bit rubbish from below. Moves are fun and the finish is good value : )

with Tim
tim.fairhall 10/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Sachi
TomJ 10/Jul/16 Lead β
afrosam 10/Jul/16 Lead β
with k_k, TomJ
Rob Laird 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Katsmiff 03/Jul/16 Lead
philhaigh 27/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with Ed Babs
Hidden 08/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/May/16 Lead dnf
Sam4242 07/May/16 Lead O/S
roryferris 07/May/16 2nd
with Sam4242
bigbobbyking 17/Apr/16 Lead dog

Had another look at the direct finish but was the end of the session so backed off to the regular finish.

with Charles Green
ChristyCole 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S
brian watson 09/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Steve Newman
Kipper-Phil Smith 21/Mar/16 Lead
with Shaun
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 18/Jul/15 Lead
Billg 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Nik Goile
dansimkin 27/Jun/15 TR O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/15 2nd O/S
lewiz 06/Jun/15 Lead dog

Accidentally got on direct

with Artur Malczuk
Hugobristol 03/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Liam
JackMac 28/May/15 Lead dog

Fell off after accidentally taking the direct 6c version. Took such a dislike to the route I didn't bother having another go.

Hidden 20/May/15 Lead dnf
samparsons 14/May/15 Lead O/S

Run out at the top is exciting!

Matt17 02/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/15 TR rpt
tobydunford 22/Mar/15 Lead rpt
with Kirsty Kerr
Hidden 14/Mar/15 Lead β
dominic lee 14/Mar/15 -
with andy elliot
Hidden 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
eel 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Andy J
bigdrew 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Eve
Oddjob 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Simon
maybe_si 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Jack93 07/Jun/14 Lead O/S
spidermonkey09 07/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/14 Lead rpt
TomRiddelsdell 30/May/14 Lead β
islandlynx 30/May/14 Lead dog
martin one 05/May/14 Lead O/S
with Markus
Russell Blackaller 03/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Crispin
Hidden 25/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 25/Oct/13 Lead O/S
L.miura 06/Oct/13 Lead RP
with Julie Carroll
tiffanykate12 05/Oct/13 2nd
Wayne.Gaudin 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Great top fiinish

with Marcus
khalidq 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Nick Clement 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with mandy clement
Hidden 26/Jul/13 Lead β
paultaylor 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
wi11 21/Jun/13 Lead β
with Nat
thomasmouse 21/Jun/13 Lead
natalietanzer 21/Jun/13 Lead β
with tom, will
Graham Booth 07/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Takacs 05/Jun/13 TR O/S
with Laurence Everitt
cameron_hall 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Luke Castiglio
surfer38 18/May/13 TR dog
Hidden 29/Apr/13 Lead O/S
alan1234 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Danny_boulders ?/Feb/13 Lead
with Robin O'Leary
RadekNowak ??/2013 Lead O/S
mark schramm 08/Dec/12 Lead O/S
with Lyndsay
Hidden 08/Dec/12 Lead rpt
philhaigh 30/Oct/12 Lead dog
Adam Booth 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Really good climbing for the grade!

edmitchell 21/Oct/12 TR
Julie Carroll 14/Oct/12 Lead
with Evie Cotrulia
Macca_7 30/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Excellent little climb which is varied and has some lovely holds. Really enjoyed although found hard for first route of the day.

jonleighton 29/Sep/12 Lead rpt
James Oswald 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Jake shaw, Liam, Mark Rankine
Abi Chard 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Ian
Jake Young 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
James Oswald 26/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 01/Jul/12 -
JackMac 01/Jul/12 Lead dnf
with Jamie, Camwa
Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
burto 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with steve
philhaigh 14/Jun/12 Lead RP

Missed the onsight after getting confused which line to follow at the top. Ended up traversing to Victims of Fashion to see if I could see the line!

Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
jonleighton 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Coops_13 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Tom Sturgeon, Matt Probert
andyob 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Calder, jonny, Diggler
Diggler 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with andyob
rustaldo 14/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Jimmy, Hannah
Hidden ??/2012 -
tradguy 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with John Mitchener
Matt77 01/Oct/11 Lead dog
Ian Bell 01/Oct/11 Lead dog

As warm up, one rest.

with Noah Haber
Hidden 30/Sep/11 Lead dnf
givemetea 16/Sep/11 Lead rpt
Toby Dunn 03/Sep/11 Lead
with Lyndsay Hilton
Brian H 14/Aug/11 Lead rpt
J5Kay 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
jbulger 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
John Tanner 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Richard Bingham
Hidden 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/11 Lead dog
chris sm 25/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Laurel Bowler
mlg678 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S

bag of shit!

Hidden 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 20/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Sarah Marks
L.miura 10/Jul/11 Lead dog
with Elli
lozowen 07/Jul/11 Lead
with J T
Hidden 30/Jun/11 Lead rpt
gibsond 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Jonathan Emett 18/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with bongo
Jonathan Emett 16/Jun/11 TR rpt
J5Kay 16/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 14/Jun/11 Lead rpt

felt hard today! not a very good warm up for victims...

with Lyndsay
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/11 Lead β
J5Kay 25/May/11 Lead β

retro flash

Hidden 01/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/11 Lead dog
RFWilkie 25/Apr/11 Lead dog

Lost my head a little when eyeing up the runout to the top. Annoyed as climbing was fairly easy.

Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead
Robin Head 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S

big holds slightly overhanging. low in the grade

with Tom Maidwell
Daniel ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
robandian ?/Apr/11 -
Hidden 21/Mar/11 TR RP
Hidden 21/Mar/11 Lead rpt
ardzeiem 19/Mar/11 Lead dog


with Tania
tania 19/Mar/11 TR
Kevster 13/Mar/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead rpt
dan gibson 09/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with sam read
Tomar 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Nice warm up

Hidden 21/Nov/10 -
Luke Dawson 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S

with headtorch in the dark

Barry Kerslake 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Mike G
Hidden 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
JPGR 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Yvette
jacobjacob 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S
mikeconway 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Ceridwen 12/Jul/10 Lead dog
with Andy
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead
jan.prostrednik 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Runkasova Jana
J5Kay 23/Jun/10 Lead
nickwhimster 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Matt Barnet
Peterjuliandawson 03/Jun/10 Lead β
will9911 ?/Jun/10 -
with Harriet
vertigo 15/May/10 Lead O/S

This was in shocking condition this morning. A nice route spoiled by soapy holds.

Ed Babs 05/May/10 Lead O/S
with Harry
duncan 23/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Jan Zapal
Scarab ??/2010 -
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
ilikemonkys 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Ashley
mynameisjen 23/Aug/09 Lead β
dan gibson 12/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson
mjeffery 28/Jul/09 Lead
Hidden 26/Jul/09 Lead β
Luke Marsden 18/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Jonathan Plumridge
colkurtz 11/Jul/09 Lead
with Robb
colkurtz ?/Jul/09 Lead
with Angie
Hidden 24/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Daniel Wicks 05/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Dom
Hidden 10/May/09 Lead β
clairejane ?/May/09 Lead β
with will
trev_f 14/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Mike H
trev_f 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Alex M
Jon_Warner 02/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Good but greasy

with Mark Glaister
chris sm 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Mowglee 28/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Tristan
rubben ??/2009 Lead β
nealh ??/2009 Lead
Alex More ??/2009 Lead
Matt Shepherd 16/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 13/Sep/08 Lead rpt
with Matic
Jonathan Emett 03/Sep/08 Lead dnf
with Matt
andybirtwistle 25/Aug/08 Lead
with Sue Birtwistle, Andy Grondowski
Matt Bennett 06/Aug/08 Lead O/S
tedj234 19/Jul/08 Lead RP
with Nicolas Rabb
hervenuttall 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Didier Nuttall
Hidden 30/Jun/08 Lead RP
ksjs 23/Jun/08 Lead O/S
dmoir 04/Jun/08 Lead O/S
richardr ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
TiffTiff 17/May/08 Lead rpt
feilx 17/May/08 Lead O/S
with Heather
Huntlyfiddler 05/May/08 2nd
bpmclimb 05/May/08 Lead O/S
with Clare
tobydunford 24/Nov/07 Lead rpt
with Harry Martin
Hidden 22/Jun/07 Lead RP
climbingpixie 26/May/07 Lead dnf

One to come back to. I found it very pumpy and fell off a couple of times before giving up.

with Cider nut
Hidden 26/May/07 Lead dnf
hippo99 ?/May/07 Lead O/S

nice and groovy

Hidden 16/Mar/07 Lead O/S
sam_cox ??/2007 Lead
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
bigie bob 01/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Vince 05/Aug/06 Lead RP
with Morgan Woods
Hidden 29/Jul/06 Lead RP
AlexD 16/Jul/06 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 ?/May/06 Lead O/S
with Floris
just one more 30/Apr/06 Lead
with Svenn G
Daniel Wrightson 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Oliver Sherman 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S
givemetea 15/Apr/06 2nd O/S
with Damien Sanfillipo
Wilbur 19/Mar/06 Lead RP
with Morgan
Morgan Woods 19/Mar/06 Lead rpt
with Wilbur
Hidden ?/Jan/06 Lead O/S
feeko ??/2006 -
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Richard Horn ??/2006 Lead RP
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Nathan Kemp ?/Oct/05 -
Owen W-G 01/Aug/04 Lead RP

Led on second attempt. Read the guidebook and go right at the top!

with Wilbur
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
EllieWoods 05/Jul/03 2nd O/S
with Ian Denton
furry 03/May/03 Lead O/S
with Phil B
Hidden 08/Apr/03 TR O/S
Al Evans ?/Jan/03 2nd
Al Evans ?/Jan/03 2nd
Al Evans ?/Jan/03 2nd
Al Evans ?/Jan/03 2nd
Al Evans ?/Jan/03 2nd
Al Evans ?/Jan/03 2nd
Al Evans ?/Jan/03 2nd
Al Evans ?/Jan/03 2nd
Al Evans ?/Jan/03 2nd
Al Evans ?/Jan/03 2nd
Al Evans ?/Jan/03 2nd
Jon Greengrass ?/Jan/03 Lead O/S
Jon Greengrass ??/2003 Lead O/S
pezzerrr ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 -
Hidden 07/Sep/02 Lead
goi.ashmore 19/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Tom Starke
Hidden ?/Jun/02 Lead
Hidden 17/Feb/02 Lead O/S
Mark A Humphries 17/Feb/02 Lead β
with dean howard
Hidden ??/2002 Lead
Hidden 23/Jul/01 2nd
migs493 27/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/01 Lead O/S
tompercy 21/May/01 2nd
Hidden ?/May/01 Lead O/S
SR1970 ?/Sep/00 Lead O/S
shoulders 11/Jun/00 Lead
with mart, andy sharp, pete lewis
John Southworth 02/Jan/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Robmwatt ??/2000 -
Hidden ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
tapley 22/Jun/99 -
with Simon Tapley
Hidden 04/Apr/99 Lead
Martin Bennett 11/Jul/98 -

Led with 2 rests!

with SF
CrashMat Rob 23/May/98 Lead O/S
with Nicky
Hidden 14/Apr/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/97 Lead O/S
phardman 29/Mar/97 Lead O/S
Adi Hooper ??/1997 Lead
with Sherborne Adventure Group
r0b 17/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with Richard Smith
Hidden ?/Aug/96 Lead
buzby78 19/May/96 Lead RP
Roget 08/May/96 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 10/Apr/96 AltLd
Hidden 07/Apr/96 Lead
Kevster ??/1996 Lead
AndySL ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Mark
Hidden ??/1996 -
Dave Musgrove 17/Jul/95 Lead O/S
with Lyn
Hidden 15/Apr/95 Lead
Bruce Kerr 14/Apr/95 Lead
with Perric Crellin
Mark Kemball 12/Mar/95 Lead O/S
Ben Thorne ??/1994 Lead O/S

Greasy in '94, worse today. I still find it hard too for some reason.

with Rich Howard
Didymus 06/Nov/93 TR O/S
with Martin
Hidden 24/Jun/93 Lead O/S
clark alston ?/Feb/93 Lead O/S
rob.grafton ??/1993 -
Nigel Coe 17/Dec/88 2nd
with Pete Oxley
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High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 56
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set