Rockfax Description
(The Mosquito) Not a real Lofoten classic but this route has a lot of good climbing and is quite popular. Grass and bushes spoil the overall quality and the lower pitches are poorly protected.
1) N4+, 45m. Start up a V-groove in the left toe of the pillar. Step left at its top and climb a bit higher to a belay above an overlap on a small ledge with a block.
2) N5-, 25m. Traverse right across the blank slab, then continue up and right into a shallow groove with a small stance.
3) N5, 40m. Climb the easy V-groove to another fixed nut, then step left across a short slab into a crack which leads into a groove with small trees and a belay on the right.
4) N4+, 20m. Step right to a layback flake that leads to the V-groove - the route's major feature - which is capped by a huge bulging chockstone. Continue up the groove, past bushes, to a small belay ledge - poor peg belay, it may be better to continue.
5) N5+, 25m. Climb the groove above to the bulge (peg) which requires some tricky bridging. Continue with difficulty up the strenuous corner-crack and belay on a ledge on the left.
6) N5-, 20m. Walk up the grass above, then climb out right around a small roof. Layback up the steep corner forming the right-hand side of the huge jammed chockstone at the top of the main V-groove, to a good stance.
7) N5-, 25m. From the belay traverse right along a horizontal crack then follow easier cracks up to a long narrow belay ledge.
8) N5+, 25m. From the left-hand end of the ledge, hand traverse left along a horizontal crack (peg - very exposed) into another crack and climb up to a ledge. Continue, following a higher crack to another good ledge.
9) N2, 30m. Finish left easily into the shrubbery above.
9a) N6, 30m. For a much better finish, head right up groove, move right to a bulge and continue direct to arrive at the abseil point. © Rockfax

Ticklists: High Quality Adventure routes.

Kirill 13/Jul/17 AltLd dnf

Bailed after P1. More serious and harder than expected. Just as well, it started raining as we got down.

with Ilia
Ilia Nadyrbayev 13/Jul/17 AltLd
Little AndyH ?/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Gibson27 ?/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Good wee route just 15 minutes from the Camp-site. Be careful with the abseils if descending this way, otherwise it's a long walk off from the top.

Hidden 15/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 02/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
TobyA 23/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with Dave
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High n6-
Mid n6-
Low n6-
High n5+
Mid n5+
Low n5+
High n5
Mid n5
Low n5
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set