18m.

Rockfax Description
A good, varied pitch with a fingery start and, butch finish. Climb the thin groove and wall above it to the upper break. A powerful sequence up the bulging headwall gains the top and a lower-off. © Rockfax

FA. Jon Biddle 07/Feb/1993

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, Classic Portland 7as (2* +), Jurassic 7a, Portland, Portland 7a/+

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Guy Maccdox 2 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The old tat can be replaced on the lead with your own 8' sling.
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βeta: The old tat can be replaced on the lead with your own 8' sling.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Ellis Bird 15 Sep Lead O/S Went far right at the top for a crazy rock over move!
Went far right at the top for a crazy rock over move!
beefy_legacy 15 Sep Lead dog Just one sequence near the start which took ages to work out, the rest is fine.
with Simon
Just one sequence near the start which took ages to work out, the rest is fine.
with Simon
brian watson 14 Sep Lead RP Goes left or right at the top
with Ellis Bird
Goes left or right at the top
with Ellis Bird
elia4 25 Aug -
ArrMcC 22 Jun Lead O/S
with Chloe
with Chloe
Hidden 14 Jun Lead
AJM 14 Jun Lead β Nice route
with Ken
Nice route
with Ken
nimajneb 5 Jun Lead O/S
gem_stone12 5 Jun 2nd dog
artmal 17 Feb Lead O/S
with Cat
with Cat
Sam Head 18 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
Rockmonkey1977 5 Aug, 2018 Lead dog Hard, very hard (solid 7b?). Couldn’t find the fingery holds at the bottom, namely coz I couldn’t find many holds... Then the top moves are mental, unless there’s a way I didn’t discover. My way was to use the large hole at roughly 11 o’clock to the last clip as a side pull and get a high right foot in the rubbered dish/pocket just above the lip allowing a slap with the right hand to a sloper. Was the only method I could make work. Definitely not 7a the way I climbed it but kinda cool, particularly at the top.
with David D
Hard, very hard (solid 7b?). Couldn’t find the fingery holds at the bottom, namely coz I couldn’t find many holds... Then the top moves are mental, unless there’s a way I didn’t discover. My way was to use the large hole at roughly 11 o’clock to the last clip as a side pull and get a high right foot in the rubbered dish/pocket just above the lip allowing a slap with the right hand to a sloper. Was the only method I could make work. Definitely not 7a the way I climbed it but kinda cool, particularly at the top.
with David D
JackMac 21 Jul, 2018 Lead dnf Onsight up to the roof then no holds before the chains?
Onsight up to the roof then no holds before the chains?
Hidden 20 May, 2018 Lead O/S
JPGR ?May, 2018 Lead O/S
S.Kew 28 Oct, 2017 Lead RP
rocksound 28 Oct, 2017 TR dog
with Angus
with Angus
Hidden 12 Aug, 2017 Lead RP
tobydunford 27 May, 2017 Lead O/S
with Oli
with Oli
TomJ 27 May, 2017 Lead RP
with k_k, afrosam
with k_k, afrosam
ThomasB 26 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
chris_woodsy 29 Aug, 2016 Lead dog One go at the end of the day. spent too long deliberating through the roof. strong finish required.
with Widda
One go at the end of the day. spent too long deliberating through the roof. strong finish required.
with Widda
Tomas P 8 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with Aelita
with Aelita
hfotheri 6 Aug, 2016 Lead dnf
etrillaud 18 Jun, 2016 Lead dnf The onsight was going well until I got pumped beyond hope and could not execute the powerful sequence after the mini roof
The onsight was going well until I got pumped beyond hope and could not execute the powerful sequence after the mini roof
afterthesend 22 May, 2016 Lead RP Second go. I did not eat the coconut...
Second go. I did not eat the coconut...
samparsons 22 May, 2016 Lead G/U Great climb with a tough second clip!
Great climb with a tough second clip!
jamesb101 16 Apr, 2016 Lead RP
with Roger
with Roger
RKirke 16 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
with Bevan
with Bevan
Hidden ??, 2016 Lead
Hidden ??, 2016 -
BenL 13 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
with Andrea
with Andrea
brices 28 Aug, 2015 Lead β
Hidden 11 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Jul, 2015 TR
GeneralFifi 16 Jun, 2015 Lead RP Quite a hard boulder at the start followed by easier ground to massive jugs just bellow the roof. Strong move over the roof to finish on a slopey pinch and undercut. Dropped it a couple times on the pinch sorting feet out but after decent rest this felt ok. Good route, 4th go.
with Freddie Erskine
Quite a hard boulder at the start followed by easier ground to massive jugs just bellow the roof. Strong move over the roof to finish on a slopey pinch and undercut. Dropped it a couple times on the pinch sorting feet out but after decent rest this felt ok. Good route, 4th go.
with Freddie Erskine
Hidden 8 Apr, 2015 Lead dnf
mark20 8 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
lewiz 6 Sep, 2014 Lead RP 1st RP
with Radek
1st RP
with Radek
RadekNowak 6 Sep, 2014 Lead RP
eel 16 Aug, 2014 2nd
with bigdrew
with bigdrew
bigdrew 16 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with eel
with eel
philhaigh 13 Aug, 2014 Lead RP
with AlexD, piska, Jon Casado, nataliehaigh
with AlexD, piska, Jon Casado, nataliehaigh
Jack93 7 Jun, 2014 TR All the moves done but no time or energy left to try and lead it
All the moves done but no time or energy left to try and lead it
Hidden 5 Oct, 2013 Lead RP
RFWilkie 2 Jun, 2013 Lead RP 1st RP attempt.
1st RP attempt.
Luke Dawson 18 May, 2013 Lead O/S
PeterDawson 18 May, 2013 Lead β
Luxulyan 20 Apr, 2013 Lead dog
with Tess Lyons
with Tess Lyons
dan gibson 10 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
with julie carroll
with julie carroll
Daniel Wicks 18 Aug, 2012 Lead
with Tash
with Tash
Harry Thorpe 19 May, 2012 Lead dnf Hard.
Hard.
Tom Heslam 8 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
with Si Brice
with Si Brice
Hidden 7 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
EllaRus ?Apr, 2012 Lead β
with j_duds
with j_duds
Hidden 10 Mar, 2012 TR dnf
pezzerrr 21 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
Dandan 19 Nov, 2011 Lead RP
Hidden 21 Sep, 2011 Lead β
Toby Dunn 3 Sep, 2011 Lead
with Lyndsay Hilton
with Lyndsay Hilton
Jonny_86 21 Aug, 2011 Lead β Retro flash. Hard start and finish with jugs in between. Good route but hard to flash.
Retro flash. Hard start and finish with jugs in between. Good route but hard to flash.
brian watson 9 Jul, 2011 TR RP
with Bisset
with Bisset
Hidden 9 Jul, 2011 TR dnf
JPGR 24 Jun, 2011 Lead
Ed Babs 20 May, 2011 Lead O/S
with AlexD
with AlexD
Bristoldave 9 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
tom106 2 Apr, 2011 Lead β
with paddy, sarp, ben, robin
with paddy, sarp, ben, robin
Robin Head 2 Apr, 2011 TR dnf
with Tom Maidwell
with Tom Maidwell
London Luke ?Apr, 2011 Lead
tedj234 ?Mar, 2011 Lead dog O/s defeated by final throw to super greasy pinch
O/s defeated by final throw to super greasy pinch
schof 19 May, 2010 Lead RP tried along time ago, did it today
with harry massey
tried along time ago, did it today
with harry massey
Richard Horn 12 Dec, 2009 Lead O/S
sparkass 3 May, 2009 Lead O/S
feilx 24 Jan, 2009 Lead O/S
with La Mont
with La Mont
nealh ??, 2009 Lead
Hidden 23 Aug, 2008 Lead dog
Matt Bennett 12 Jul, 2008 Lead dog ready to rp, too tired!!
ready to rp, too tired!!
steve taylor 19 Jun, 2008 Lead Didn't do top move, couple of rests at start. Very cold though (no, really...)
with Jon e H
Didn't do top move, couple of rests at start. Very cold though (no, really...)
with Jon e H
garburn 5 Jun, 2008 Lead RP
with dmoir
with dmoir
dmoir 4 Jun, 2008 Lead RP
with garburn
with garburn
dannyboy83 26 Apr, 2008 Lead RP
with dmoir
with dmoir
Martin Krasnansky 5 Nov, 2007 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
Hidden ??, 2007 -
bigie bob 7 Oct, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Apr, 2006 Lead dnf
Boy ??, 2006 -
feeko ??, 2006 -
steve taylor ??, 2006 Lead
Marti999 ??, 2006 Lead
eddieclimb ?Apr, 2005 Lead RP
with Jason Parker
with Jason Parker
Kev Little ??, 2004 Lead O/S
The Jazz Butcher ??, 2003 -
John Southworth 21 Jul, 2002 Lead RP
lx ??, 2002 Lead
Hidden 19 Jun, 2001 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 May, 2001 Lead
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Robmwatt ??, 2000 -
Hidden ?Apr, 1998 Lead O/S
Eduardo Martinez ?May, 1996 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Apr, 1996 AltLd
Bruce Kerr 14 Apr, 1995 Lead
with Perric Crellin
with Perric Crellin
12 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set