140m, 5 pitches. A spooky route. Based on West Face Route on the lower spur, it then takes a complex line through the upper headwall above West Chimney. Start as for West Face Route.

1. 10m. Climb up and through a narrow crack between the buttress wall and a detached pinnacle.

2. 33m Stand on top of the pinnacle. Climb the steep crack past the left-hand end of an overlap to enter a vice like slot. Thrutch up the slot, and step left where it widens. Continue more easily up the buttress.

3. 32m Broken ground leads to a junction with Flake route which is followed to the ledge and boulder traverse on the fourth pitch of West Chimney Route.

4. 40m Above the ledge and boulder traverse is a cracked wall. From the top of a large block on the traverse climb the wall by left trending cracks (8m), then move up and rightwards into a shallow chimney/groove. Climb this, moving right at its top, and cross a short difficult slab to reach a peg (possible belay). From the peg a series of discontinuous ledges lead down and right to the arete (difficult to protect). Swing round the arete and climb two short steep corners directly upwards to easier ground. Traverse horizontally right for 5m to a belay below a steep corner.

5. 25m. Climb the corner, step right and follow a groove line to the top

Malcolm Bass & Simon Yearsley 04/Mar/2000.

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