UKC

Access Banned

As described in the 2010 CC guide, climbing at Symonds Yat is only permitted on the north-west facing cliffs - from The Introductory Rocks to the Final Zone inclusive.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrine falcons have established a nest since 2019 on Strathdon, in the White Wall.  Climbers should therefore avoid all routes from Motorway Madness to Night Nurse, inclusive, during the restricted period. 

 

Start as for Vertigo.Climb bulges to the left of Vertigo past two pegs.Take care with the rock on the easy climbing that leads to the top.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tom Brierley 8 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The poor rock quality after the crux, as per description, is not to be underestimated. No amount of care could have prevented two medium sized blocks from crumbling away like old biscuits before I could even weight them. Everything you touch feels fragile.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The poor rock quality after the crux, as per description, is not to be underestimated. No amount of care could have prevented two medium sized blocks from crumbling away like old biscuits before I could even weight them. Everything you touch feels fragile.
Graham 'Sven' Hassall 8 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Ignore comment about entering on the left, the right is easier. The first peg is shocking but can be backed up with a good cam a little lower, but is strenuous to place. The rock above the bulge is shocking and there is one bit towards the top that will topple the top of the pinnacle if its disturbed!! Best to climb through the bulge (crux) and then traverse a move to the right (good mid size cam in a pocket on the vertigo face) and either climb the blunt arete or up the top half of vertigo. Replaced the thread April 2022.
Show beta
βeta: Ignore comment about entering on the left, the right is easier. The first peg is shocking but can be backed up with a good cam a little lower, but is strenuous to place. The rock above the bulge is shocking and there is one bit towards the top that will topple the top of the pinnacle if its disturbed!! Best to climb through the bulge (crux) and then traverse a move to the right (good mid size cam in a pocket on the vertigo face) and either climb the blunt arete or up the top half of vertigo. Replaced the thread April 2022.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Symonds Yat

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 3
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Run for Home

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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