Do the ridge starting between the Eperon and the Abri Simond and climb all the Gendarmes.
First wall loads of options (Recommended an obvious double corner system at 6b/+ climbed by a combination of laybacking, stemming and jamming), second pitch an obvious couloir with blocks at around IV/V or better, a huge half moon flake climbed almost entirely on undercuts and at around 6a.
Follow the ridge and climb the first gendarme at V+ starting from below the abseil and bridging up till you get the good holds. Abseil (40m) straight into the col and continue on the ridge till the second gendarme. Climb it at 6b+ and abseil down the other side.
Traverse right and climb the final wall by the route of your choice (several routes from 6b till 7a)
All routes except the first wall covered in the Piola guide.
First wall loads of options (Recommended an obvious double corner system at 6b/+ climbed by a combination of laybacking, stemming and jamming), second pitch an obvious couloir with blocks at around IV/V or better, a huge half moon flake climbed almost entirely on undercuts and at around 6a.
Follow the ridge and climb the first gendarme at V+ starting from below the abseil and bridging up till you get the good holds. Abseil (40m) straight into the col and continue on the ridge till the second gendarme. Climb it at 6b+ and abseil down the other side.
Traverse right and climb the final wall by the route of your choice (several routes from 6b till 7a)
All routes except the first wall covered in the Piola guide.
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Route of Interest
South Face Direct
Grade: TD- 5c ***
(Aiguille d'Argentiere)