Rockfax Description
When in condition, the central depression and upper cracks offer a brilliant experience that is low in the grade. Start at the left-hand end of a high ledge, below a shallow corner.
Climb the technical central groove to a more defined section of the depression, where the difficulties build before the final impending headwall is reached and climbed on more-positive holds. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 5.7.89 05/Jul/1989

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland, Portland 15 (7's).

Hidden 20/May Lead dog
islandlynx 12/May Lead RP

1st redpoint. A little bit greasy at the crux. Tried really hard and just hung on at the end. I enjoyed moving through the pinched arete sequence, though Matt and I had very different beta. First hard route for quite a while.

with Matt77
tsyrett 06/May 2nd dog

The move out the shallow corner has me stumped

littleluke 21/Apr -
marcduhig 14/Oct/17 Lead dog


with pep
danJBA 02/Sep/17 Lead RP
with Duncan
nacnud 02/Sep/17 Lead RP
with Daniel Abbot
Hidden 19/Aug/17 Lead β
dbrooks 19/Aug/17 Lead RP

didn't find this particularly low in the grade, seemed harder than England's Dreaming

with Portland crew
James Oakes 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Steph, Theo, Sophie Keltie, Howard, Gus, Flo Barton, Wood for Trees
Gus 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with James Oakes
fennerz 06/Aug/17 Lead O/S


with Jocelyn
GrahamGiles 15/Jul/17 Lead dog

Unfortunately all the good holds were wet so decided not to attempt a red-point, great moves though!

Q.Estelles 15/Jul/17 Lead RP
S.Kew 12/Jul/17 Lead dnf

Quick try. Easy to bulge. Tricky through bulge. Lot of energy spent working the moves. Needs layback moves to reach holds. Possibility of RP now beta known.

Rockmonkey1977 08/Jul/17 Lead dnf

Very slimy earlier in the day. Then just too hot! Best conditions arrived as my energy left. Can I think of anymore excuses... Straightforward climbing to the bottom of the groove then it begins. I found the moves awkward and not particularly enjoyable but probably coz I couldn't do it 😉 I will return another day in better conditions but in my opinion there are far better climbs at this crag.

tobydunford 17/Jun/17 Lead G/U
with Ed Babs
Kevster 03/Jun/17 Lead dog

Got all the moves, would go quite quickly if I tried again. Soapy today.

with Gavdee1
Gavdee1 03/Jun/17 2nd
with Kevster
penny.orr 16/Apr/17 2nd
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 16/Apr/17 Lead O/S

A bit damp, but nothing too critical. Brilliant technical/crimpy climbing, with a lot going on all throughout the pitch - it doesn't let up!

etrillaud 08/Apr/17 TR dog

both myself and the route were not in condition (the crux section in the depression was wet)

Mark Stevenson 13/Mar/17 Lead β
Ian MK 28/Oct/16 Lead dnf

First attempt at a UK 7. Failed of corse but had fun trying. Gets quite technical at the groove. Was damp and felt slimy but not sure it would be any easier dry to be honest. Pressed on regardless but burned out at the squeeze above. Awesome route so far mind :)

Hidden 25/Sep/16 Lead RP
afrosam 18/Sep/16 Lead dnf

Gopping, bailed at the crux

brian watson 30/Jul/16 Lead RP

1st repoint attempt (nice surprise), onsight attempt pitiful, baking hot had to get in sea to cool down. Evening send 7.45pm perfect conditions, a battle to the very last, great route with lots of varied climbing.

with Mike Hawkins
Hidden 27/Jul/16 Lead G/U
Dean177 17/Jul/16 Lead RP

There is more than one hands free rest to be had! Dont remember trying this last year (dog 2nd!?)

with Ana_B
AlexD 13/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Surprise end of the day blast, perfect conditions in the evening sun. Got a bit lost at the top as couldn't see the bolt over the roof, ended up a bit far left and had a pumpy traverse to get back over!

with Shamina
Hidden 09/Jul/16 Lead O/S
mikespooner 11/Jun/16 Lead dnf

Groove felt really hard!

with RKirke
professorcobra 02/Jun/16 Lead dog
littleluke 15/May/16 Lead dog

Dropped the last move due to seagull attack!

rachelvlc 14/May/16 TR
Matti Puckridge 14/May/16 Lead O/S

It was a fight! Fantastic varied climbing.

Hidden ?/May/16 -
MichaelGallimore 29/Apr/16 Lead dnf

Greasy, gave up.

with Flavio, Ben Philips
BenL 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Sam Gill
philhaigh 23/Apr/16 Lead dog
Nick Russell 16/Apr/16 Lead O/S

What a fight! I don't know how long I was on this but I felt drained by the end. Lot's of shoulders/core/persistence got me up this, despite being a bit damp in places (there was a hint in the guidebook!)

Glyn 12/Apr/16 Lead O/S

tricky when damp! Awesome hanging corner moves

with Amy UT
Tommyads ??/2016 -

Soaking wet felt like 7b+ Amazing climb.

Hidden 15/Aug/15 TR dog
Ally Smith 25/Jul/15 Lead RP

Oops - grabbed the draw after it inverted and was going to unclipped if fallen on. Simple redpoint

samparsons 25/Jul/15 Lead dog

Next time

JackMac 25/Jul/15 Lead dog

Found the grove really awkward and not very enjoyable to climb.

with Dan 85
Flavio 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Pumpy, used some chimney technique mid crux to get an okayish rest. Had a standoff with a seagull before the loweroff. First outdoor 7.

with robinge
dswansonlow 10/Jul/15 Lead dog
with Alex Banks
Hidden 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S
td72 ?/May/15 Lead dog
with Mike M
Dean177 18/Apr/15 2nd dog
with Dibdawg
Dibdawg 18/Apr/15 Lead dog

An unexpected slip of the hand on greasy rock in the grove and the on-sight was gone!

with Dean177
bryan61 06/Apr/15 Lead dnf
with td72
dbrooks 18/Jan/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead dog
jacobjacob 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Great natural line & one of the best pitches I've done on Portland, despite being filthy & wet! Must be 4* when clean & dry.

with Antoine
LucasHarazin 05/Oct/13 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Sep/13 Lead dog
Hidden 03/Sep/13 Lead O/S
redjerry 22/Aug/13 TR O/S

Quite damp, felt hard. 12a/b.

Hidden 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
3 Names 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Ian Bell 29/Jun/13 TR dog

Crux holds wet so cheated past this. Rest was OK. Would be do-able with a fair few practises. Nice.

Luke Dawson 26/May/13 Lead O/S
PeterDawson 26/May/13 Lead O/S
lewiz 18/May/13 Lead RP

2nd RP attempt

littleluke 05/May/13 -
Hidden 20/Apr/13 TR dog
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead RP
dan gibson 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with julie carroll, helen gibson
CRiddiford 29/Jul/12 TR dog

groove is wellllll hard!

Adam Booth 22/Jun/12 TR β

Would be great to lead this one when the conditions aren't quite do epic!

ThomasB ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Linc 31/Aug/11 Lead dog
Marti999 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S


Billg 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead β
Ed Babs 18/Sep/10 Lead RP

2nd go today. clean to the roof 04/Jun/10 with Al

with Mike Hawkins
dominic lee 14/May/10 Lead O/S
with andy elliot
marcpontin ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with huw
jacobjlloyd 04/Jul/09 Lead dog

Pumpy and magnificent.

with Ivan
La Mont ??/2009 -
nealh ??/2009 Lead
w.pettet-smith ??/2009 Lead dnf

after flinty layers, the upper groove had a thick skin of mouldy slime. one to come back for in better conditions

with josh and steve
Martin Krasnansky 13/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/08 Lead O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe 03/May/08 2nd
dannyboy83 26/May/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Moir, Felix Coxwell
feilx 26/May/07 Lead β
with Rin
bigie bob 24/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead O/S
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2004 -
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
UKB and BMC Shark ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Chris Sowden
Hidden ??/2001 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Steve Crowe 15/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with karin
Ben Thorne ??/1998 Lead dnf

Fine up to the hanging groove, but was wet and minging. Backed off.

with John Pullin
Pedro50 ??/1996 Lead O/S
with A. Belayer
Eduardo Martinez 11/Aug/95 Lead O/S
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High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set