28m.

Rockfax Description
When in condition, the central depression and upper cracks offer a brilliant experience that is low in the grade. Start at the left-hand end of a high ledge, below a shallow corner.
Climb the technical central groove to a more defined section of the depression, where the difficulties build before the final impending headwall is reached and climbed on more-positive holds. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 05/Jul/1989

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland, West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+, Portland 7a/+

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UserDateNotes
MarcDorrington 3 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Hard to know what the anchor is, we went right, it would appear this picture is taken at an angle. Right seemed the best way. but there is a lack of anchors up there.
 
Show beta
βeta: Hard to know what the anchor is, we went right, it would appear this picture is taken at an angle. Right seemed the best way. but there is a lack of anchors up there.
beefy_legacy 29 Jul Show βeta
βeta: The anchors are up and to the right of the final bolt, you can’t see them until you move right and above the break.
 
Show beta
βeta: The anchors are up and to the right of the final bolt, you can’t see them until you move right and above the break.
Ben Stokes 7 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Rinaldo, the 6th of August was one of the most humid days I have experienced on Portland for years.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rinaldo, the 6th of August was one of the most humid days I have experienced on Portland for years.
Rin C 7 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Did this today during the hottest summer for a millenium and the crack at 2/3s height was still dripping. A great climb, spoiled by the wet. Does it ever get dry?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did this today during the hottest summer for a millenium and the crack at 2/3s height was still dripping. A great climb, spoiled by the wet. Does it ever get dry?
tomrainbow 7 May, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: Superb sustained climbing - this must be one of the best routes on the Isle.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb sustained climbing - this must be one of the best routes on the Isle.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
RichyBOYY 5 Oct TR dog
Martin Bagshaw 21 Sep Lead dnf Could have probably got up it, but so greasy. Wait until the sun has been on it next time.
with Tom Hudson
Could have probably got up it, but so greasy. Wait until the sun has been on it next time.
with Tom Hudson
Scribe 7 Sep Lead dog
with Tutu
with Tutu
Cass31 5 Sep Lead RP
with J1_TOV
with J1_TOV
J1_TOV 5 Sep Lead RP
MarcDorrington 1 Sep Lead RP Great Route, Very Pumpy
Great Route, Very Pumpy
Guslayton 1 Sep Lead RP
julesmckim 4 Aug Lead dog "When in condition..." When is that? When not in condition, the whole thing is a horrible grease-fest. Thought I was doing well getting up into a groove using really damp holds to find the next 20 feet cruxy and also damp. It is a brilliant line though covered in amazing holds and features.
with paul mccarthy
"When in condition..." When is that? When not in condition, the whole thing is a horrible grease-fest. Thought I was doing well getting up into a groove using really damp holds to find the next 20 feet cruxy and also damp. It is a brilliant line though covered in amazing holds and features.
with paul mccarthy
milneb 4 Aug Lead dog
with Jillzzzzzzz, Jill
with Jillzzzzzzz, Jill
JCAshman 29 Jul Lead O/S It was not in condition! Felt slippery and nails..
It was not in condition! Felt slippery and nails..
beefy_legacy 28 Jul Lead dog Couldn’t find the anchors so topped out ....
with Simon, kingborris
Couldn’t find the anchors so topped out ....
with Simon, kingborris
choufler 27 Jul Lead dog
WillAndrew 16 Jul Lead O/S The slime is strong with this one.
with KatePG
The slime is strong with this one.
with KatePG
mr_cf 13 Jul - Still having to dog it, always soapy!
Still having to dog it, always soapy!
Honey badger 93 7 Jul Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 1 Jul Lead O/S
with John Nightingale
with John Nightingale
igola 29 Jun Lead dog Very, very close to the onsight, amazing route, should come back for this!
Very, very close to the onsight, amazing route, should come back for this!
Alex N-R 23 Jun Lead O/S
with Tomar
with Tomar
Hidden 21 Jun Lead dog
Sophie Nunn 6 Jun Lead O/S
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
Stroppy 25 May Lead dog Very wet. Waited a few hours, still very greasy. Really struggled.
Very wet. Waited a few hours, still very greasy. Really struggled.
Luke_92 21 May TR dnf Very greasy on the holes in the shade.
Very greasy on the holes in the shade.
just one more 21 May Lead dog Grease magnet. Lots of sun and low humidity, but still greasy. Much less so second go. An evening sess would be best. Great route,well varied
with Luke
Grease magnet. Lots of sun and low humidity, but still greasy. Much less so second go. An evening sess would be best. Great route,well varied
with Luke
adamsriches 12 May Lead dog So greasy
with dryvita
So greasy
with dryvita
Ignas Va 12 May Lead dog
thunderstruck 12 May Lead dog
adamsriches 11 May Lead dog Felt hard and greasy
with dryvita
Felt hard and greasy
with dryvita
john lynch 5 May Lead O/S
with Harriet, Bethan May Davies, John Hanley
with Harriet, Bethan May Davies, John Hanley
Bethan May Davies 5 May Lead Had to bear down on this. Maybe I was just tired at the end of the day. It was a brilliant route.
Had to bear down on this. Maybe I was just tired at the end of the day. It was a brilliant route.
johnhan310 4 May Lead RP Felt so hard on first go. Managed to Get through the first crux and then found a few good rests and kept it together to the top on the first red point. Worthy top 50! Climbing in the top half is amazing!
Felt so hard on first go. Managed to Get through the first crux and then found a few good rests and kept it together to the top on the first red point. Worthy top 50! Climbing in the top half is amazing!
Harrietbarford 4 May Lead RP
samparsons 19 Apr Lead RP Very greasy but a good route! 25.7.15 Next time
Very greasy but a good route! 25.7.15 Next time
Ramon Marin 30 Mar Lead RP Greasy as facking sin, took 3 goes and still was more like upwards slithering on slime
with viki harvey
Greasy as facking sin, took 3 goes and still was more like upwards slithering on slime
with viki harvey
Kev Little 18 Nov, 2018 Lead rpt
with aiyer
with aiyer
Edpepper 21 Oct, 2018 Lead dog wet and slimey
wet and slimey
blaza1 7 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
with lizzabelle, liam jones
with lizzabelle, liam jones
W d c 29 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Placing draws.
with Dan Cook, Lewis, Timm. O, Al Rosier
Placing draws.
with Dan Cook, Lewis, Timm. O, Al Rosier
katiep 16 Sep, 2018 Lead dnf
with Joe W-O
with Joe W-O
Ellis Bird 14 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
ukcsprearden 13 Sep, 2018 2nd dog
afrosam 8 Sep, 2018 Lead RP Nice to get this in better condition than when I tried a few years ago. Still pretty slimy but such good varied climbing!
Nice to get this in better condition than when I tried a few years ago. Still pretty slimy but such good varied climbing!
Qisheng Xie 2 Sep, 2018 Lead RP More than anything condition needs to be right otherwise this is a greasemonger's cellar. I recommend trying at 18 degrees or below, overcast with a sweet breeze, calm sea, and at least a week of no rain prior.
More than anything condition needs to be right otherwise this is a greasemonger's cellar. I recommend trying at 18 degrees or below, overcast with a sweet breeze, calm sea, and at least a week of no rain prior.
GrahamGiles 2 Sep, 2018 Lead RP Dogged this last year and got some beta for the top so got it first try. Pumped out my mind with a couple soapy holds but better than last time I tried it.
Dogged this last year and got some beta for the top so got it first try. Pumped out my mind with a couple soapy holds but better than last time I tried it.
hfotheri 1 Sep, 2018 Lead dog
with sge
with sge
petegunn 22 Aug, 2018 Lead
Hidden 22 Aug, 2018 2nd
M_Robinson 6 Aug, 2018 Lead dog Wet as anything, would be an incredible route otherwise
with Ian Robinson
Wet as anything, would be an incredible route otherwise
with Ian Robinson
Dandan 4 Aug, 2018 Lead dog Sweaty slime fest, punched myself in the head when I slid off a hold. Seems like a good route if conditions were a bit more favourable!
Sweaty slime fest, punched myself in the head when I slid off a hold. Seems like a good route if conditions were a bit more favourable!
Rad Elliot 28 Jul, 2018 Lead dnf Greasy groove
with abrooks
Greasy groove
with abrooks
George Killaspy 22 Jul, 2018 Lead G/U Sweated off at the crux, left it a couple of hours and got back on G/U in the evening. Nice route.
with Callum , Jess
Sweated off at the crux, left it a couple of hours and got back on G/U in the evening. Nice route.
with Callum , Jess
Bettymolly 23 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S First 7a+ onsight!!!! Hung around for ages route finding.
First 7a+ onsight!!!! Hung around for ages route finding.
Spatchcock 22 Jun, 2018 Lead
S.Kew 22 Jun, 2018 Lead RP
Hidden 20 May, 2018 Lead dog
islandlynx 12 May, 2018 Lead RP 1st redpoint. A little bit greasy at the crux. Tried really hard and just hung on at the end. I enjoyed moving through the pinched arete sequence, though Matt and I had very different beta. First hard route for quite a while.
with Matt77
1st redpoint. A little bit greasy at the crux. Tried really hard and just hung on at the end. I enjoyed moving through the pinched arete sequence, though Matt and I had very different beta. First hard route for quite a while.
with Matt77
Matt77 12 May, 2018 Lead dog 2 gos.
2 gos.
tsyrett 6 May, 2018 2nd dog The move out the shallow corner has me stumped
The move out the shallow corner has me stumped
littleluke 21 Apr, 2018 -
akamolphat ??, 2018 Lead dnf
marcduhig 14 Oct, 2017 Lead dog Wet
with pep
Wet
with pep
danJBA 2 Sep, 2017 Lead RP
with Duncan
with Duncan
nacnud 2 Sep, 2017 Lead RP
with danJBA
with danJBA
Hidden 19 Aug, 2017 Lead β
dbrooks 19 Aug, 2017 Lead RP didn't find this particularly low in the grade, seemed harder than England's Dreaming
with Portland crew
didn't find this particularly low in the grade, seemed harder than England's Dreaming
with Portland crew
James Oakes 12 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Steph, Theo, Sophie Keltie, Howard, Gus, Flo Barton, Wft
with Steph, Theo, Sophie Keltie, Howard, Gus, Flo Barton, Wft
Gus 12 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with James Oakes
with James Oakes
fennerz 6 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Mint
with Jocelyn
Mint
with Jocelyn
GrahamGiles 15 Jul, 2017 Lead dog Unfortunately all the good holds were wet so decided not to attempt a red-point, great moves though!
Unfortunately all the good holds were wet so decided not to attempt a red-point, great moves though!
Q.Estelles 15 Jul, 2017 Lead RP
Rockmonkey1977 8 Jul, 2017 Lead dnf Very slimy earlier in the day. Then just too hot! Best conditions arrived as my energy left. Can I think of anymore excuses... Straightforward climbing to the bottom of the groove then it begins. I found the moves awkward and not particularly enjoyable but probably coz I couldn't do it 😉 I will return another day in better conditions but in my opinion there are far better climbs at this crag.
Very slimy earlier in the day. Then just too hot! Best conditions arrived as my energy left. Can I think of anymore excuses... Straightforward climbing to the bottom of the groove then it begins. I found the moves awkward and not particularly enjoyable but probably coz I couldn't do it 😉 I will return another day in better conditions but in my opinion there are far better climbs at this crag.
tobydunford 17 Jun, 2017 Lead G/U
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
Kevster 3 Jun, 2017 Lead dog Got all the moves, would go quite quickly if I tried again. Soapy today.
with Gavdee1
Got all the moves, would go quite quickly if I tried again. Soapy today.
with Gavdee1
Gavdee1 3 Jun, 2017 2nd
with Kevster
with Kevster
penny.orr 16 Apr, 2017 2nd
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 16 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S A bit damp, but nothing too critical. Brilliant technical/crimpy climbing, with a lot going on all throughout the pitch - it doesn't let up!
A bit damp, but nothing too critical. Brilliant technical/crimpy climbing, with a lot going on all throughout the pitch - it doesn't let up!
etrillaud 8 Apr, 2017 TR dog both myself and the route were not in condition (the crux section in the depression was wet)
both myself and the route were not in condition (the crux section in the depression was wet)
Mark Stevenson 13 Mar, 2017 Lead β
Ian MK 28 Oct, 2016 Lead dnf First attempt at a UK 7. Failed of corse but had fun trying. Gets quite technical at the groove. Was damp and felt slimy but not sure it would be any easier dry to be honest. Pressed on regardless but burned out at the squeeze above. Awesome route so far mind :)
First attempt at a UK 7. Failed of corse but had fun trying. Gets quite technical at the groove. Was damp and felt slimy but not sure it would be any easier dry to be honest. Pressed on regardless but burned out at the squeeze above. Awesome route so far mind :)
Hidden 25 Sep, 2016 Lead RP
afrosam 18 Sep, 2016 Lead dnf Gopping, bailed at the crux
Gopping, bailed at the crux
brian watson 30 Jul, 2016 Lead RP 1st repoint attempt (nice surprise), onsight attempt pitiful, baking hot had to get in sea to cool down. Evening send 7.45pm perfect conditions, a battle to the very last, great route with lots of varied climbing.
with Mike Hawkins
1st repoint attempt (nice surprise), onsight attempt pitiful, baking hot had to get in sea to cool down. Evening send 7.45pm perfect conditions, a battle to the very last, great route with lots of varied climbing.
with Mike Hawkins
Hidden 27 Jul, 2016 Lead G/U
Dean177 17 Jul, 2016 Lead RP There is more than one hands free rest to be had! Dont remember trying this last year (dog 2nd!?)
with Ana_B
There is more than one hands free rest to be had! Dont remember trying this last year (dog 2nd!?)
with Ana_B
AlexD 13 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Surprise end of the day blast, perfect conditions in the evening sun. Got a bit lost at the top as couldn't see the bolt over the roof, ended up a bit far left and had a pumpy traverse to get back over!
with Shamina
Surprise end of the day blast, perfect conditions in the evening sun. Got a bit lost at the top as couldn't see the bolt over the roof, ended up a bit far left and had a pumpy traverse to get back over!
with Shamina
Hidden 9 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
mikespooner 11 Jun, 2016 Lead dnf Groove felt really hard!
with RKirke
Groove felt really hard!
with RKirke
professorcobra 2 Jun, 2016 Lead dog
littleluke 15 May, 2016 Lead dog Dropped the last move due to seagull attack!
Dropped the last move due to seagull attack!
rachelvlc 14 May, 2016 TR
Matti Puckridge 14 May, 2016 Lead O/S It was a fight! Fantastic varied climbing.
It was a fight! Fantastic varied climbing.
Hidden ?May, 2016 -
Hidden 29 Apr, 2016 Lead dnf
BenL 24 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
with Sam Gill
with Sam Gill
philhaigh 23 Apr, 2016 Lead dog
Nick Russell 16 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S What a fight! I don't know how long I was on this but I felt drained by the end. Lot's of shoulders/core/persistence got me up this, despite being a bit damp in places (there was a hint in the guidebook!)
What a fight! I don't know how long I was on this but I felt drained by the end. Lot's of shoulders/core/persistence got me up this, despite being a bit damp in places (there was a hint in the guidebook!)
Glyn 12 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S tricky when damp! Awesome hanging corner moves
with Amy UT
tricky when damp! Awesome hanging corner moves
with Amy UT
Tommyads ??, 2016 - Soaking wet felt like 7b+ Amazing climb.
Soaking wet felt like 7b+ Amazing climb.
Hidden 15 Aug, 2015 TR dog
Ally Smith 25 Jul, 2015 Lead RP Oops - grabbed the draw after it inverted and was going to unclipped if fallen on. Simple redpoint
Oops - grabbed the draw after it inverted and was going to unclipped if fallen on. Simple redpoint
JackMac 25 Jul, 2015 Lead dog Found the grove really awkward and not very enjoyable to climb.
with Dan 85
Found the grove really awkward and not very enjoyable to climb.
with Dan 85
Flavio 18 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Pumpy, used some chimney technique mid crux to get an okayish rest. Had a standoff with a seagull before the loweroff. First outdoor 7.
with robinge
Pumpy, used some chimney technique mid crux to get an okayish rest. Had a standoff with a seagull before the loweroff. First outdoor 7.
with robinge
dswansonlow 10 Jul, 2015 Lead dog
with Alex Banks
with Alex Banks
Hidden 14 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
td72 ?May, 2015 Lead dog
with Mike M
with Mike M
nimajneb ?May, 2015 Lead O/S
Dean177 18 Apr, 2015 2nd dog
with Dibdawg
with Dibdawg
Dibdawg 18 Apr, 2015 Lead dog An unexpected slip of the hand on greasy rock in the grove and the on-sight was gone!
with Dean177
An unexpected slip of the hand on greasy rock in the grove and the on-sight was gone!
with Dean177
bryan61 6 Apr, 2015 Lead dnf
with td72
with td72
dbrooks 18 Jan, 2015 Lead dnf
Hidden 13 Sep, 2014 Lead dnf
Hidden 13 Sep, 2014 Lead dnf
Hidden 21 Jun, 2014 Lead dog
jacobjacob 15 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 14 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Great natural line & one of the best pitches I've done on Portland, despite being filthy & wet! Must be 4* when clean & dry.
with Antoine
Great natural line & one of the best pitches I've done on Portland, despite being filthy & wet! Must be 4* when clean & dry.
with Antoine
LucasHarazin 5 Oct, 2013 Lead RP
Hidden 20 Sep, 2013 Lead dog
Hidden 3 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
redjerry 22 Aug, 2013 TR O/S Quite damp, felt hard. 12a/b.
Quite damp, felt hard. 12a/b.
Hidden 21 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
3 Names 11 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Ian Bell 29 Jun, 2013 TR dog Crux holds wet so cheated past this. Rest was OK. Would be do-able with a fair few practises. Nice.
Crux holds wet so cheated past this. Rest was OK. Would be do-able with a fair few practises. Nice.
Luke Dawson 26 May, 2013 Lead O/S
PeterDawson 26 May, 2013 Lead O/S
lewiz 18 May, 2013 Lead RP 2nd RP attempt
2nd RP attempt
littleluke 5 May, 2013 -
Hidden 20 Apr, 2013 TR dog
Hidden 8 Sep, 2012 Lead RP
dan gibson 23 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with julie carroll, helen gibson
with julie carroll, helen gibson
CRiddiford 29 Jul, 2012 TR dog groove is wellllll hard!
groove is wellllll hard!
Adam Booth 22 Jun, 2012 TR β Would be great to lead this one when the conditions aren't quite do epic!
Would be great to lead this one when the conditions aren't quite do epic!
ThomasB ?Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 31 Aug, 2011 Lead dog
Marti999 29 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S pumpy
pumpy
Billg 10 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Sep, 2010 Lead β
Ed Babs 18 Sep, 2010 Lead RP 2nd go today. clean to the roof 04/Jun/10 with Al
with Mike Hawkins
2nd go today. clean to the roof 04/Jun/10 with Al
with Mike Hawkins
dominic lee 14 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with andy elliot
with andy elliot
marcpontin ?Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with huw
with huw
jacobjlloyd 4 Jul, 2009 Lead dog Pumpy and magnificent.
with Ivan
Pumpy and magnificent.
with Ivan
La Mont ??, 2009 -
nealh ??, 2009 Lead
w.pettet-smith ??, 2009 Lead dnf after flinty layers, the upper groove had a thick skin of mouldy slime. one to come back for in better conditions
with josh and steve
after flinty layers, the upper groove had a thick skin of mouldy slime. one to come back for in better conditions
with josh and steve
Martin Krasnansky 13 May, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 May, 2008 Lead O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe 3 May, 2008 2nd
dannyboy83 26 May, 2007 Lead O/S
with Dave Moir, Felix Coxwell
with Dave Moir, Felix Coxwell
feilx 26 May, 2007 Lead β
with Rin
with Rin
bigie bob 24 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ?May, 2006 Lead O/S
Boy ??, 2006 -
The Jazz Butcher ??, 2004 -
Kev Little ??, 2004 Lead O/S
UKB Shark ?Jul, 2002 Lead O/S
with Chris Sowden
with Chris Sowden
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead
Steve Crowe 15 Mar, 1998 Lead O/S
with karin
with karin
Ben Thorne ??, 1998 Lead dnf Fine up to the hanging groove, but was wet and minging. Backed off.
with John Pullin
Fine up to the hanging groove, but was wet and minging. Backed off.
with John Pullin
The Jazz Butcher ??, 1997 -
with Dave Pickford
with Dave Pickford
Pedro50 ??, 1996 Lead O/S
with A. Belayer
with A. Belayer
Eduardo Martinez 11 Aug, 1995 Lead O/S
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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Repeated
Not Set