Rockfax Description
Another Portland classic, with continuously interesting and varied moves on superb rock. Start at a vertical wall directly below a clean-cut corner in the upper wall. A hard move to a good hold gains easier ground that leads to the midway horizontal break. Pull up leftwards into the base of the square-cut corner. Climb the corner steeply to a difficult exit out right and up to gain the finishing headwall. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 29.4.89 29/Apr/1989

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, Portland, Spanish crew 2018.

dbrooks 03/Jun Lead RP

very nearly onsighted this yesterday, fell at the last bolt pulling through the final bulge

Dexter JW 02/Jun Lead dnf
with dbrooks
nacnud 06/May Lead dog
chancer 06/May Lead dog
with Marc Duhig
marcduhig 06/May Lead rpt

2nd go but only due to first few holds being damp, top went clean. Did again in full heat to get the full fat tick.

with chancer
marcduhig 14/Oct/17 Lead dnf

gutted I couldn't try it, will be back.

with pep
tclewis 23/Aug/17 Lead dog

So close today, got so pumped. Despite not yet getting it clean, I've decided this is one of my favourites on Portland. Hopefully I'll be back sometime next week, feeling a lot more fresh.

Jan Masat 19/Aug/17 Lead RP

2nd go.Long and varied route which is never to desperate. Brilliant stuff.

with Sarah
Hidden 19/Aug/17 Lead β
tclewis 16/Aug/17 Lead dog

Felt really hard at this point, but moves are really good and very much my style.

tclewis 16/Aug/17 TR dog

Felt a lot easier this time round, rested on rope twice. Might go next try.

Hidden 12/Aug/17 Lead RP
James Oakes 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Steph, Theo, Sophie Keltie, Howard, Gus, Flo Barton, Wood for Trees
Gus 12/Aug/17 Lead β

Possibly the most fatigued I have ever been on a climb after a morning's DWS aswell. Body wasn't doing what I told it to!

with soup crew, James Oakes
blaza1 15/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with JackMac
Aaron.Clifford 15/Jul/17 Lead RP

was really greasy so was chalking up more than climbing! Went second go, hard one to onsight but a steady 7b to redpoint.

brian watson 17/Jun/17 Lead dnf

gash conditions bailed.(don't understand the soapy thing some routes ok some not? very hot today)

with Mike Hawkins
Hidden 17/Jun/17 Lead dog
hankyc 04/Jun/17 Lead RP
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 16/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Another immaculate, long pitch that keeps on coming right until the lower-off.

Mark Stevenson 13/Mar/17 Lead β
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
Hidden 09/Oct/16 Lead dog
Wendy 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Kate K
Rockmonkey1977 25/Sep/16 Lead dog

On the flash attempt I fell about one move below the ledge, damn!!! Then I went straight to the top, absolutely fantastic route but some greasy holds low down. Have saved the 2nd attempt for another day as I was pretty wasted after the first and it was the second day on...

Hidden 11/Sep/16 TR dog
Hidden 06/Aug/16 Lead dog
chris_woodsy 31/Jul/16 Lead RP

Brilliant climb! Was terribly greasy when first arrived. Holds improved after a mega clean up operation and some afternoon sun. Tough start (crimps and flint), big rest (ledge), sustained top (beta dependant). Second session, 3rd RP, 1st of the day.

with Widda
Hidden 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
littleluke 23/Jul/16 Lead dog

second session had did it in two, fell at entering the lower grove after the rest

AlexD 13/Jul/16 Lead RP

Some super shiny crimps at the start, pinged off a few times before conditions improved! Rest is lovely though, some amazing holds on the second half!

with Shamina
tommccluskey 07/Jul/16 Lead β
with Amar
littleluke 02/Jul/16 2nd β

Moves in the bank for the rp

Edward Kwong 15/May/16 Lead RP

Powerful start on tiny holds, halfway ledge rest and then sequency upper section. Sustained and varied with good rests available. Sent 5th go...

Matti Puckridge 14/May/16 Lead RP

Hard start and hard finish with great sustained climbing the whole way. Find the rests.

rachelvlc 14/May/16 TR
lawsy_boy1 08/May/16 Lead RP
JackMac 08/May/16 Lead RP

One of my very best climbing experiences :) On arrival, conditions were greasy from top to bottom but improved with a brush and even more so when the sun arrived. Don't be put off by the soapy starting holds!

with Hayley, lawsy_boy1
spidey 07/May/16 TR dog

Account open

with Daryl
JackMac 30/Apr/16 Lead dog

After a few false starts on the soapy crimps, lead to the final break before pumping out. Really need to save something for the final stretch! Great line.

with Dan 85
Dan 85 30/Apr/16 Lead RP
with JackMac
Hidden 24/Apr/16 Lead dog
BenL 23/Apr/16 Lead β
nimajneb 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with BenL
Tomar 13/Mar/16 Lead dog

Almost 2nd go but my hand slipped off the slopy soapy holds after the crux. Will need to come back for this. Cool route

with JackMac
Tommyads ??/2016 -
Sophie Nunn 06/Aug/15 Lead RP
with Ed Babs
philhaigh 06/Aug/15 Lead dog
with Sophie Nunn, Ed Babs, Shamina Kapadia
ThomasB ?/Aug/15 Lead RP
Ellie Rymer 17/Jun/15 2nd dnf
Mark Chevassut 17/Jun/15 Lead dog

great climb, but need to repeat when conditions are better.

Hidden 16/May/15 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 18/Jan/15 Lead RP
with Derwood
Bristoldave 04/Jan/15 Lead dog

Great route. Greasy today.

with Luke
NewHam ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
lewiz 21/Jun/14 Lead β
Hidden 25/Aug/13 TR dog
redjerry 25/Aug/13 TR O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
3 Names 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Cyan
Hidden 03/Aug/13 TR dog
Luke Dawson 26/May/13 Lead O/S
PeterDawson 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/13 Lead
dan gibson 18/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with julie carroll, helen gibson
John Mcshea 23/Jun/12 Lead O/S
GarethHall 24/Mar/12 Lead dog


tom106 23/Oct/11 Lead β

had never climbed above 3rd bolt+couldnt remeber any of it...semi flash...ish....brilliant route!

with chris s, dan
Ed Babs 29/Sep/11 Lead RP

2nd go. Lovely climb.

with Dr Steve
dannyboy83 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Ivan
tom106 27/Aug/11 Lead dog

fell on onsight and ripped a time

with laura
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 14/Aug/11 Lead dog
Marti999 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
ben hargreaves 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Pumped all the way!

bigie bob 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
La Mont ??/2009 Lead O/S
feilx 14/Sep/08 Lead dog
Martin Krasnansky 07/Aug/08 Lead O/S
keefe 17/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Tansy
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2001 -
Mike Owen 02/Jun/95 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
31 users have this on their wishlist
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set