28m.

Rockfax Description
Another Portland classic, with continuously interesting and varied moves on superb rock. Start at a vertical wall directly below a clean-cut corner in the upper wall. A hard move to a good hold gains easier ground that leads to the midway horizontal break. Pull up leftwards into the base of the square-cut corner. Climb the corner steeply to a difficult exit out right and up to gain the finishing headwall. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 29.4.89 29/Apr/1989

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, Portland, Spanish crew 2018

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
johnhan310 6 May Lead dog Totally class route and conditions were great. Bottom section is really hard cranking on crimps and quite bad feet to an ok rest, then sustained fingery climbing to a good sit down rest. Spent too much time on the bottom section and neglected the amazing climbing above the corner. Dropped it on the redpoint twice in a row exiting the corner and was too boxed to try again. Definitely not over once you figure out the bottom. One for again
with Harriet, John, Beth
Totally class route and conditions were great. Bottom section is really hard cranking on crimps and quite bad feet to an ok rest, then sustained fingery climbing to a good sit down rest. Spent too much time on the bottom section and neglected the amazing climbing above the corner. Dropped it on the redpoint twice in a row exiting the corner and was too boxed to try again. Definitely not over once you figure out the bottom. One for again
with Harriet, John, Beth
Matt Clifton 5 May Lead dog
with Helen
with Helen
Bethan May Davies 4 May Lead Amazing route. the top 2 thirds climbs amazing, the juggy layback corner and then heaving up through the roof. Wow! Shame about the start is just a bit crimpy and unpleasant.
Amazing route. the top 2 thirds climbs amazing, the juggy layback corner and then heaving up through the roof. Wow! Shame about the start is just a bit crimpy and unpleasant.
john lynch 4 May Lead O/S
TomRiddelsdell 6 Apr Lead dog
islandlynx 6 Apr Lead RP 3rd RP. A brilliant route with varied technical climbing. Found the bottom section tough and couldn't manage with the morning grease. Sustained but never too pumpy. Thanks to Tom for team beta and psyche.
3rd RP. A brilliant route with varied technical climbing. Found the bottom section tough and couldn't manage with the morning grease. Sustained but never too pumpy. Thanks to Tom for team beta and psyche.
Ramon Marin 30 Mar Lead dog Fought like a bastard for the onsight slithering out of grease holds, only to fail at the very top. Argh! Quality route though, next time.,
with viki harvey
Fought like a bastard for the onsight slithering out of grease holds, only to fail at the very top. Argh! Quality route though, next time.,
with viki harvey
W d c 29 Sep, 2018 Lead β Draws in place.
with Dan Cook, Lewis, Al Rosier, Timm. O
Draws in place.
with Dan Cook, Lewis, Al Rosier, Timm. O
Michael Bortoluzzi 19 Aug, 2018 Lead RP 2nd go
2nd go
TwofoZeus 19 Aug, 2018 2nd dog First half was very good but very damp, slipped off the rail at the bottom a few times from wet holds. Really good route, very technical and technically sustained climbing until the break. Followed by very good and fun climbing. Too exhausted on second go. Will return
First half was very good but very damp, slipped off the rail at the bottom a few times from wet holds. Really good route, very technical and technically sustained climbing until the break. Followed by very good and fun climbing. Too exhausted on second go. Will return
Richard Kendrick 19 Aug, 2018 Lead RP Sooooo greasy! Spent ages drying off holds. From the big rest it’s much easier but has the better climbing on I thought
with Simon
Sooooo greasy! Spent ages drying off holds. From the big rest it’s much easier but has the better climbing on I thought
with Simon
Rockmonkey1977 3 Aug, 2018 Lead RP First try today, second in total, whilst hanging the qd’s. I love this route, so varied, so good. Powerful crimps followed by a PE section followed by a big rest. Then big move, followed by powerful laybacking, a cheeky knee scum and a teetering top out. It has it all! (Done whilst keto)
with David D
First try today, second in total, whilst hanging the qd’s. I love this route, so varied, so good. Powerful crimps followed by a PE section followed by a big rest. Then big move, followed by powerful laybacking, a cheeky knee scum and a teetering top out. It has it all! (Done whilst keto)
with David D
Q.Estelles 21 Jul, 2018 Lead RP After a first try 2 weeks ago, it went nicely with a dyno at the bottom at the first attempt
After a first try 2 weeks ago, it went nicely with a dyno at the bottom at the first attempt
Hidden 16 Jul, 2018 Lead dog
Hidden 16 Jul, 2018 Lead RP
Q.Estelles 8 Jul, 2018 Lead dog
Hidden 1 Jul, 2018 Lead RP
S.Kew 22 Jun, 2018 Lead RP
dbrooks 3 Jun, 2018 Lead RP very nearly onsighted this yesterday, fell at the last bolt pulling through the final bulge
very nearly onsighted this yesterday, fell at the last bolt pulling through the final bulge
Dexter JW 2 Jun, 2018 Lead dnf
with dbrooks
with dbrooks
nacnud 6 May, 2018 Lead dog
chancer 6 May, 2018 Lead dog
with Marc Duhig
with Marc Duhig
marcduhig 6 May, 2018 Lead rpt 2nd go but only due to first few holds being damp, top went clean. Did again in full heat to get the full fat tick.
with chancer
2nd go but only due to first few holds being damp, top went clean. Did again in full heat to get the full fat tick.
with chancer
marcduhig 14 Oct, 2017 Lead dnf gutted I couldn't try it, will be back.
with pep
gutted I couldn't try it, will be back.
with pep
tclewis 23 Aug, 2017 Lead dog So close today, got so pumped. Despite not yet getting it clean, I've decided this is one of my favourites on Portland. Hopefully I'll be back sometime next week, feeling a lot more fresh.
So close today, got so pumped. Despite not yet getting it clean, I've decided this is one of my favourites on Portland. Hopefully I'll be back sometime next week, feeling a lot more fresh.
Jan Masat 19 Aug, 2017 Lead RP 2nd go.Long and varied route which is never to desperate. Brilliant stuff.
with Sarah
2nd go.Long and varied route which is never to desperate. Brilliant stuff.
with Sarah
Hidden 19 Aug, 2017 Lead β
tclewis 16 Aug, 2017 Lead dog Felt really hard at this point, but moves are really good and very much my style.
Felt really hard at this point, but moves are really good and very much my style.
tclewis 16 Aug, 2017 TR dog Felt a lot easier this time round, rested on rope twice. Might go next try.
Felt a lot easier this time round, rested on rope twice. Might go next try.
Hidden 12 Aug, 2017 Lead RP
James Oakes 12 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Steph, Theo, Sophie Keltie, Howard, Gus, Flo Barton, Wft
with Steph, Theo, Sophie Keltie, Howard, Gus, Flo Barton, Wft
Gus 12 Aug, 2017 Lead β Possibly the most fatigued I have ever been on a climb after a morning's DWS aswell. Body wasn't doing what I told it to!
with soup crew, James Oakes
Possibly the most fatigued I have ever been on a climb after a morning's DWS aswell. Body wasn't doing what I told it to!
with soup crew, James Oakes
blaza1 15 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with JackMac
with JackMac
Aaron.Clifford 15 Jul, 2017 Lead RP was really greasy so was chalking up more than climbing! Went second go, hard one to onsight but a steady 7b to redpoint.
was really greasy so was chalking up more than climbing! Went second go, hard one to onsight but a steady 7b to redpoint.
brian watson 17 Jun, 2017 Lead dnf gash conditions bailed.(don't understand the soapy thing some routes ok some not? very hot today)
with Mike Hawkins
gash conditions bailed.(don't understand the soapy thing some routes ok some not? very hot today)
with Mike Hawkins
Hidden 17 Jun, 2017 Lead dog
hankyc 4 Jun, 2017 Lead RP
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 16 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Another immaculate, long pitch that keeps on coming right until the lower-off.
Another immaculate, long pitch that keeps on coming right until the lower-off.
Mark Stevenson 13 Mar, 2017 Lead β
Ellis Bird ??, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Oct, 2016 Lead dog
Wendy 2 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
with Kate K
with Kate K
Rockmonkey1977 25 Sep, 2016 Lead dog On the flash attempt I fell about one move below the ledge, damn!!! Then I went straight to the top, absolutely fantastic route but some greasy holds low down. Have saved the 2nd attempt for another day as I was pretty wasted after the first and it was the second day on...
On the flash attempt I fell about one move below the ledge, damn!!! Then I went straight to the top, absolutely fantastic route but some greasy holds low down. Have saved the 2nd attempt for another day as I was pretty wasted after the first and it was the second day on...
Hidden 11 Sep, 2016 TR dog
Hidden 6 Aug, 2016 Lead dog
chris_woodsy 31 Jul, 2016 Lead RP Brilliant climb! Was terribly greasy when first arrived. Holds improved after a mega clean up operation and some afternoon sun. Tough start (crimps and flint), big rest (ledge), sustained top (beta dependant). Second session, 3rd RP, 1st of the day.
with Widda
Brilliant climb! Was terribly greasy when first arrived. Holds improved after a mega clean up operation and some afternoon sun. Tough start (crimps and flint), big rest (ledge), sustained top (beta dependant). Second session, 3rd RP, 1st of the day.
with Widda
Hidden 23 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
littleluke 23 Jul, 2016 Lead dog second session had did it in two, fell at entering the lower grove after the rest
second session had did it in two, fell at entering the lower grove after the rest
AlexD 13 Jul, 2016 Lead RP Some super shiny crimps at the start, pinged off a few times before conditions improved! Rest is lovely though, some amazing holds on the second half!
with Shamina
Some super shiny crimps at the start, pinged off a few times before conditions improved! Rest is lovely though, some amazing holds on the second half!
with Shamina
tommccluskey 7 Jul, 2016 Lead β
with Amar
with Amar
littleluke 2 Jul, 2016 2nd β Moves in the bank for the rp
Moves in the bank for the rp
Edward Kwong 15 May, 2016 Lead RP Powerful start on tiny holds, halfway ledge rest and then sequency upper section. Sustained and varied with good rests available. Sent 5th go...
Powerful start on tiny holds, halfway ledge rest and then sequency upper section. Sustained and varied with good rests available. Sent 5th go...
Matti Puckridge 14 May, 2016 Lead RP Hard start and hard finish with great sustained climbing the whole way. Find the rests.
Hard start and hard finish with great sustained climbing the whole way. Find the rests.
rachelvlc 14 May, 2016 TR
lawsy_boy1 8 May, 2016 Lead RP
JackMac 8 May, 2016 Lead RP One of my very best climbing experiences :) On arrival, conditions were greasy from top to bottom but improved with a brush and even more so when the sun arrived. Don't be put off by the soapy starting holds!
with Hayley, lawsy_boy1
One of my very best climbing experiences :) On arrival, conditions were greasy from top to bottom but improved with a brush and even more so when the sun arrived. Don't be put off by the soapy starting holds!
with Hayley, lawsy_boy1
spidey 7 May, 2016 TR dog Account open
with Daryl
Account open
with Daryl
JackMac 30 Apr, 2016 Lead dog After a few false starts on the soapy crimps, lead to the final break before pumping out. Really need to save something for the final stretch! Great line.
with Dan 85
After a few false starts on the soapy crimps, lead to the final break before pumping out. Really need to save something for the final stretch! Great line.
with Dan 85
Dan 85 30 Apr, 2016 Lead RP
with JackMac
with JackMac
Hidden 24 Apr, 2016 Lead dog
BenL 23 Apr, 2016 Lead β
nimajneb 23 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
with BenL
with BenL
Tomar 13 Mar, 2016 Lead dog Almost 2nd go but my hand slipped off the slopy soapy holds after the crux. Will need to come back for this. Cool route
with JackMac
Almost 2nd go but my hand slipped off the slopy soapy holds after the crux. Will need to come back for this. Cool route
with JackMac
Tommyads ??, 2016 -
Sophie Nunn 6 Aug, 2015 Lead RP
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
philhaigh 6 Aug, 2015 Lead dog
ThomasB ?Aug, 2015 Lead RP
Ellie Rymer 17 Jun, 2015 2nd dnf
Mark Chevassut 17 Jun, 2015 Lead dog great climb, but need to repeat when conditions are better.
great climb, but need to repeat when conditions are better.
Hidden 16 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 18 Jan, 2015 Lead RP
with Derwood
with Derwood
Bristoldave 4 Jan, 2015 Lead dog Great route. Greasy today.
with Luke
Great route. Greasy today.
with Luke
NewHam ?Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
lewiz 21 Jun, 2014 Lead β
Hidden 25 Aug, 2013 TR dog
redjerry 25 Aug, 2013 TR O/S
Hidden 21 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
3 Names 11 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with Cyan
with Cyan
Hidden 3 Aug, 2013 TR dog
Luke Dawson 26 May, 2013 Lead O/S
PeterDawson 26 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ?May, 2013 Lead
dan gibson 18 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with julie carroll, helen gibson
with julie carroll, helen gibson
John Mcshea 23 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
GarethHall 24 Mar, 2012 Lead dog Project...:-)
Project...:-)
tom106 23 Oct, 2011 Lead β had never climbed above 3rd bolt+couldnt remeber any of it...semi flash...ish....brilliant route!
with chris s, dan
had never climbed above 3rd bolt+couldnt remeber any of it...semi flash...ish....brilliant route!
with chris s, dan
Ed Babs 29 Sep, 2011 Lead RP 2nd go. Lovely climb.
with Dr Steve
2nd go. Lovely climb.
with Dr Steve
dannyboy83 3 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
with Ivan
with Ivan
tom106 27 Aug, 2011 Lead dog fell on onsight and ripped a flapper....next time
with laura
fell on onsight and ripped a flapper....next time
with laura
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 14 Aug, 2011 Lead dog
Marti999 14 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
ben hargreaves 13 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S Pumped all the way!
Pumped all the way!
bigie bob 29 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
La Mont ??, 2009 Lead O/S
feilx 14 Sep, 2008 Lead dog
Martin Krasnansky 7 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
keefe 17 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
with Tansy
with Tansy
Hidden ??, 2004 -
Hidden ??, 2001 -
Mike Owen 2 Jun, 1995 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 23
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Dogged
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Not Set