Rockfax Description
The initial wall is bold and the rock above it suspect in places. Start from a flat-topped boulder 3m left of the central groove/corner. Boldly pull onto the wall and climb straight up to the top of the pinnacle. Abseil off, or continue up the crux finishing groove of Vanguard. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Basically a direct start to Vanguard (but not the E3 6a one in the guidebook). The climbing is reasonable but the start is bold, the rock is suspect in places, and the gear needs working at (friends useful). Start from a flat-topped boulder 3 metres left of Vanguard, and boldly pull onto the wall. Climb straight up to the top of the pinnacle. Abseil off or continue up the upper groove of Vanguard to the top.
Brian Mullan, Clare Lindley 24/Sep/2009.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rick Sewards | 23 Nov, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: This arguably makes Vanguard a better route by avoiding its very loose middle section but retaining its fine upper groove. However, the start is bold with a bad landing (and harder for the short) and the next section is not above suspicion (but not as loose as Vanguard). As the upper groove of Vanguard is excellent (and HVS 5a), I\'ve no idea why you would abseil off before doing it as suggested here. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This arguably makes Vanguard a better route by avoiding its very loose middle section but retaining its fine upper groove. However, the start is bold with a bad landing (and harder for the short) and the next section is not above suspicion (but not as loose as Vanguard). As the upper groove of Vanguard is excellent (and HVS 5a), I've no idea why you would abseil off before doing it as suggested here. |
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