12m.
Start at the left side of the crag left of Just Good Friends. Climb the short wall and crack, which is the start of Merlin, to gain the lhs of the first deep horizontal break. With your hands in this and your feet smearing along a shallow sloping feature arrange sufficient gear to protect the second. Keep shuffling along the break and the sloping feature until an awkward move allows the first flake on Just Good Friends to be reached. Arrange further protection before moving up and right along the next deep break. More palming and shuffling should see you to the rhs of the crag. An awkward move up a shallow groove (the top of Bath with a Friend) allows a massive bucket and the top to be reached.
Richard Hudson and Richard Pollard 16/Sep/2009.
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Route of Interest
Queen of the May
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Vellan Head Area)