60m, 3 pitches.
NEWLY CLEANED AND RE-ROUTED 2014.
Steep climbing on an impressive line. It is clean enough to climb but it feels quite adventurous due to dusty holds and reluctant gear. A pre-placed belay rope would make for a more pleasant exit. Start 12 metres left of a sea-washed ledge at a rounded overhanging rib.
1 17m 5a Climb the wall for 3 metres, then pull up left to a handrail between the roofs. Traverse right to where the angle eases and make tenuous moves up and left across the wall above. Continue direct to overhangs and a thread/nut belay on the left.
2 43m 5a Step right and move over the overhangs to beneath an overhung groove. Climb the wall to its right (crux) and move back left above the roof to a crack system. Follow this, moving right to its continuation. Escape the small cave by bridging up onto the right wall and finish up the short groove above to grass ledges and a cam 3.5 belay. A heinous scramble up the grass gully leads to the top.
Pat Littlejohn & Charles Wand-Tetley 04/Oct/1970