15m.

Rockfax Description
The best pitch here up the blunt arete on its right-hand side. Tough at the top and requiring a long reach. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Vaicaitis 31/Aug/1997

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Jim Houghton 31 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Pretty steep clipping the LO, was slipping of the little side pull out right. Other than that, nice route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pretty steep clipping the LO, was slipping of the little side pull out right. Other than that, nice route.
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 28 May Lead O/S
RaphaelRemis 27 May Lead RP
jjb13 18 May Lead dog Got the quickdraw in the chain but couldn't clip it
with Joe H, Ellie R, Aithne92
Got the quickdraw in the chain but couldn't clip it
with Joe H, Ellie R, Aithne92
Matt Rogers 12 May Lead dog
Stroppy 11 May Lead β
Ben Harper 11 May Lead RP
marcb 11 May Lead O/S
with Michael Moore
with Michael Moore
Hidden 6 May Lead O/S
RaphaelRemis 5 May Lead dog
Ned 4 May Lead
Hidden 28 Apr Lead O/S
Kike Kikon 3 Nov, 2018 Lead O/S Among the best of the crag
Among the best of the crag
Hidden 30 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
takaczapka 16 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
with Ned
with Ned
Ned 16 Sep, 2018 Lead
Vince 16 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Phippy 16 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
igola 25 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
pbogun 25 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
with Magda Bogun
with Magda Bogun
georgejl 19 Aug, 2018 Lead dog two bolt lines, very scary top.
two bolt lines, very scary top.
N0tBiggieSmalls 19 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S First 6c onsight!
First 6c onsight!
intiocean 19 Aug, 2018 Lead β
RangerMcFreindly 19 Aug, 2018 Lead β Didnt feel 6c (To the new chains) needs regrading/given a separate extension grade. It feels more 6b/+ to the new chains. But still worth seeking out its really fun movements!
with georgejl, Chris, George Allan, Colossimo, StrongDan
Didnt feel 6c (To the new chains) needs regrading/given a separate extension grade. It feels more 6b/+ to the new chains. But still worth seeking out its really fun movements!
with georgejl, Chris, George Allan, Colossimo, StrongDan
rockafunked 19 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
aharrison24 18 Aug, 2018 TR dog Last section much harder than the rest of the route. Reached the hold directly below the anchor without rests, but fell off many times trying to gain the crack above the anchor. Not really sure if that's necessary to 'finish' the route.
Last section much harder than the rest of the route. Reached the hold directly below the anchor without rests, but fell off many times trying to gain the crack above the anchor. Not really sure if that's necessary to 'finish' the route.
kirstymcn 18 Aug, 2018 Lead dog Very nice climb, though pretty dusty on the first half. Took some falls at the top. Really appreciated the generously placed last bolt. Clipped the anchor while hanging from the wedge just below.
Very nice climb, though pretty dusty on the first half. Took some falls at the top. Really appreciated the generously placed last bolt. Clipped the anchor while hanging from the wedge just below.
Hidden 7 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Ruth O'Brien 1 Jul, 2018 TR dog
with ssutton
with ssutton
ssutton 1 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
curly19sue 1 Jul, 2018 TR O/S
with Adriana Feraru
with Adriana Feraru
Harry Hall 24 Jun, 2018 Lead dog
Hidden 23 Jun, 2018 Lead
Luke_92 23 Jun, 2018 TR dog Slipped off a very greasy hold mid height, then struggled at the top. I think it'll go fairly easily on lead but felt too knackered to hold the top hold in the end today.
with Paul
Slipped off a very greasy hold mid height, then struggled at the top. I think it'll go fairly easily on lead but felt too knackered to hold the top hold in the end today.
with Paul
Hidden 21 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
robbielee1 27 May, 2018 Lead
with Elia
with Elia
Elia Winter 27 May, 2018 Lead β
Hidden 13 May, 2018 Lead dog
Hidden 13 May, 2018 TR dog
Jack Shewring 7 May, 2018 Lead RP To the new anchor, which seems to have dropped the grade substantially. Still can't work out how to clip the old chains.
To the new anchor, which seems to have dropped the grade substantially. Still can't work out how to clip the old chains.
samparsons 7 May, 2018 Lead β
emmafizzle 7 May, 2018 Lead
Hidden 6 May, 2018 Lead dog
Kipper-Phil Smith 3 May, 2018 Lead Just messed up the finish. ok second try really nice climbing all the way
with Denis
Just messed up the finish. ok second try really nice climbing all the way
with Denis
Hidden 11 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
will_of_fortune 1 Apr, 2018 Lead RP To the new anchor.
To the new anchor.
AAhmed 1 Apr, 2018 Lead β Revisited - now the chains have been put in the correct place! (To the right) and the very much needed extra bolt has been added. Gladly, it went today first go!
with Will L
Revisited - now the chains have been put in the correct place! (To the right) and the very much needed extra bolt has been added. Gladly, it went today first go!
with Will L
katiep 16 Dec, 2017 Lead O/S Didn't feel that reachy (I'm 5'6), but did require some high feet
with RKirke
Didn't feel that reachy (I'm 5'6), but did require some high feet
with RKirke
pguilloux 5 Nov, 2017 Lead dnf couldn't do the last move s-despite several fall
with Federico
couldn't do the last move s-despite several fall
with Federico
Jwatson 4 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S
with emdawes
with emdawes
Rockmonkey1977 24 Sep, 2017 Lead dog Again this route has defeated me and again I think it's harder than 6c! It's probably 6b/+ climbing to the crux but that last move... I'm not sure whether I'm missing something? Maybe next time if I can actually remember the beta...
Again this route has defeated me and again I think it's harder than 6c! It's probably 6b/+ climbing to the crux but that last move... I'm not sure whether I'm missing something? Maybe next time if I can actually remember the beta...
Rockmonkey1977 24 Sep, 2017 Lead
will_of_fortune 28 Aug, 2017 Lead dnf
AAhmed 19 Aug, 2017 Lead RP First time round - Took two big falls on the last demanding move.
with ngreen
First time round - Took two big falls on the last demanding move.
with ngreen
ngreen 19 Aug, 2017 Lead β
with AAhmed
with AAhmed
nickhamb 12 Aug, 2017 Lead dog Easy climb but fell on the last section, the crux of the route. The Crux is pretty committing with a big reach. Shame as I almost on sighted that!
Easy climb but fell on the last section, the crux of the route. The Crux is pretty committing with a big reach. Shame as I almost on sighted that!
Hidden 12 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
mattx1123 30 Jul, 2017 Lead dnf Lead to final bolt, but then fell repeatedly (and some distance!) at crux, knackering! Jamie sent it and then George and I doggedly T/R'd it.
with Jamie S, Georgina bough
Lead to final bolt, but then fell repeatedly (and some distance!) at crux, knackering! Jamie sent it and then George and I doggedly T/R'd it.
with Jamie S, Georgina bough
Hidden 22 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Robbie-Fleming 12 Jul, 2017 2nd dog
with Will, Abbi
with Will, Abbi
Geras 8 Jul, 2017 TR dog
cdpuk 8 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Didn't find the top moves particularly long, but committing and insecure, yes!
Didn't find the top moves particularly long, but committing and insecure, yes!
Dugster 8 Jul, 2017 TR Could not quite finish the top
with Gilbert
Could not quite finish the top
with Gilbert
ngreen ?Jul, 2017 Lead dnf
with Steve27
with Steve27
Hidden ?Jul, 2017 2nd dnf
cmcg 24 Jun, 2017 Lead dnf All but the last move. Spectacular whip trying for it though.
All but the last move. Spectacular whip trying for it though.
Hidden 4 Jun, 2017 TR dnf
adamsriches 27 May, 2017 Lead dnf Last move, very hard to do or hard to work out. Took some big falls trying to figure out how to grab the top. Had to bail in the end.
Last move, very hard to do or hard to work out. Took some big falls trying to figure out how to grab the top. Had to bail in the end.
Steph Roberts 21 May, 2017 2nd
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 21 May, 2017 Lead rpt
Roland stopps 7 May, 2017 TR
Jay-Ast 16 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
with Rosyk
with Rosyk
pbogun 18 Mar, 2017 TR dnf Couldn't get the last move
Couldn't get the last move
Carl 21 Aug, 2016 Lead dnf Done clean up to the last bolt before the anchor, then spent a while taking lobs trying to figure out the last move or two! Couldn't find the feet, think I should have been doing some sort of layback... Ended up bailing off a maillon which was conveniently and promptly retrieved by another climber!
with Jessie Reid
Done clean up to the last bolt before the anchor, then spent a while taking lobs trying to figure out the last move or two! Couldn't find the feet, think I should have been doing some sort of layback... Ended up bailing off a maillon which was conveniently and promptly retrieved by another climber!
with Jessie Reid
La benya 21 Aug, 2016 Lead dog Last bolt is positioned really badly. If you commit to the top and blow it, the ledge below awaits your ankles/ head if you get wrapped around the rope (because the bolts in the wrong place) the hardest move on the wall...?
Last bolt is positioned really badly. If you commit to the top and blow it, the ledge below awaits your ankles/ head if you get wrapped around the rope (because the bolts in the wrong place) the hardest move on the wall...?
chancer 14 Aug, 2016 Lead dnf Lovely climbing up to the malion. Needs another staple after the last one to prevent falling onto the ledge.
with Ed Wigmore
Lovely climbing up to the malion. Needs another staple after the last one to prevent falling onto the ledge.
with Ed Wigmore
td72 30 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with katie93
with katie93
Hidden 3 Jul, 2016 Lead dog
hfotheri 25 Jun, 2016 Lead dog Almost clean but messed up last move which is a bit commiting
Almost clean but messed up last move which is a bit commiting
Rockmonkey1977 31 May, 2016 Lead dog Being my 4th day straight it's hard to know how much fatigue played a part but I thought the last move was tricky (in fact desperate) for 6c... I took some fun whippers working it out though!
Being my 4th day straight it's hard to know how much fatigue played a part but I thought the last move was tricky (in fact desperate) for 6c... I took some fun whippers working it out though!
tsyrett 7 May, 2016 Lead RP Backed off the last move first go. Scraped my way up to the lower off and then send it first red point after a bit of top rope work. Pretty desperate for feet!
Backed off the last move first go. Scraped my way up to the lower off and then send it first red point after a bit of top rope work. Pretty desperate for feet!
AJ007 1 May, 2016 Lead RP
with Jay Ashraf
with Jay Ashraf
Hidden 30 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Flavio 30 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Apr, 2016 Lead dog
Sam4242 23 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
with ElArt
with ElArt
WilliamD 25 Oct, 2015 Lead dnf Fell off at the last move before anchors and inverted myself. Not a nice last move.
Fell off at the last move before anchors and inverted myself. Not a nice last move.
wyzfen 27 Sep, 2015 TR dog Easy lead to last clip, but needed top-rope for last move.
Easy lead to last clip, but needed top-rope for last move.
danusiatycia 27 Sep, 2015 TR
leglesslizard 6 Sep, 2015 Lead RP
tomwright1509 28 Jul, 2015 Lead β
SDM 18 Jul, 2015 Lead dnf Didn't work out/wouldn't commit to the final move
Didn't work out/wouldn't commit to the final move
Hidden 18 Jul, 2015 TR dog
Ross Davidson 11 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with AMA
with AMA
Hidden 8 Jul, 2015 Lead β
xiangoh ?Jul, 2015 Lead β
hervenuttall ?Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Doug
with Doug
Hidden 6 Jun, 2015 2nd dnf
Hidden 4 May, 2015 Lead β
Rupey 4 May, 2015 Lead RP
with alan
with alan
Hidden 12 Apr, 2015 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 12 Apr, 2015 Lead RP Clip stick to the top and the final move is instantly worked out, bit thin for the feet but ok, maybe 6b?
with Dan, Pat, phattnoodle, Steph Roberts
Clip stick to the top and the final move is instantly worked out, bit thin for the feet but ok, maybe 6b?
with Dan, Pat, phattnoodle, Steph Roberts
Sam4242 6 Apr, 2015 Lead dog
with ElArt
with ElArt
Jack Shewring 5 Apr, 2015 Lead dnf Got all the way to the last bolt on the onsight. Couldn't work out the top to clip the chains. Took massive whipper.
Got all the way to the last bolt on the onsight. Couldn't work out the top to clip the chains. Took massive whipper.
Dibdawg 5 Apr, 2015 Lead dog Nails finish and a choice of direction.
with Ade7
Nails finish and a choice of direction.
with Ade7
jamesb101 31 Jan, 2015 Lead O/S
with Rob Saxton
with Rob Saxton
RadekNowak 24 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
philhaigh 30 Jul, 2014 Lead RP
with Shamina
with Shamina
bryan61 21 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with SaltPig
with SaltPig
Nick Russell 13 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Didn't find the last move too bad. Nor particularly reachy. Maybe I did something weird.
Didn't find the last move too bad. Nor particularly reachy. Maybe I did something weird.
drcorbasisgod 19 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
mattgrange 25 May, 2014 Lead dnf Top moves reachy and quite blind,rather unnerving. Sweaty greasy conditions did not help!
Top moves reachy and quite blind,rather unnerving. Sweaty greasy conditions did not help!
Cheese Monkey 9 May, 2014 Lead O/S
pheotleyr 9 May, 2014 TR dnf Couldn't do the first loooong move of the crux headwall.
Couldn't do the first loooong move of the crux headwall.
Alex Winter 9 May, 2014 Lead O/S Took me a while to figure out the top.
with Ben's stag
Took me a while to figure out the top.
with Ben's stag
kingborris ??, 2014 -
BenL 24 Aug, 2013 Lead β
with Angus Webb
with Angus Webb
Hidden 20 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Uberpussy 10 Aug, 2013 Lead dnf Great route, took a whipper after a few aborted attempts at top section, will be back to get this one clean.
Great route, took a whipper after a few aborted attempts at top section, will be back to get this one clean.
Jonathan Emett 4 Aug, 2013 Lead rpt
with Paul
with Paul
philhaigh 18 Jul, 2013 Lead dog The jug near the top seemed to lead me into a blind alley - then going left/direct was a bit reachy (on awful left foot).
with Shamina
The jug near the top seemed to lead me into a blind alley - then going left/direct was a bit reachy (on awful left foot).
with Shamina
phardy 30 Jun, 2013 Lead dnf Last move is scary and run out... took a couple of big falls but found nothing at the top to grab onto. Amazing (type 2) fun.
Last move is scary and run out... took a couple of big falls but found nothing at the top to grab onto. Amazing (type 2) fun.
JamesRich 23 Jun, 2013 TR dog
with Alex Rhodes, Stanners, Quarryboy
with Alex Rhodes, Stanners, Quarryboy
Quarryboy 23 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Absolute bollocks for your feet at the top, pretty much forced to campus the last move.
with Alex Rhodes, JamesRich, Stanners
Absolute bollocks for your feet at the top, pretty much forced to campus the last move.
with Alex Rhodes, JamesRich, Stanners
Stanners 23 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with Alex Rhodes, James Rich, Quarryboy
with Alex Rhodes, James Rich, Quarryboy
Jus 15 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
LucasHarazin 27 May, 2013 Lead β
Jobbo 4 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Apr, 2013 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 28 Apr, 2013 Lead dnf Top was way too run out with blind moves - not for me.
Top was way too run out with blind moves - not for me.
dprctr 9 Mar, 2013 Lead dog Would have got this if the rain hadnt made the top crux crimp wet!
with Fiona McFarlane
Would have got this if the rain hadnt made the top crux crimp wet!
with Fiona McFarlane
chrisclimber ??, 2013 -
Hidden 8 Dec, 2012 Lead dog
Hidden 8 Dec, 2012 Lead dnf
bradfry 11 Nov, 2012 Lead dog easy 'til last sequence. You hope after the three crappy moves that you'll find a jug to get the last clip from - you won't.
easy 'til last sequence. You hope after the three crappy moves that you'll find a jug to get the last clip from - you won't.
Hidden 29 Sep, 2012 Lead β
robajob 29 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
jon_gill1 22 Sep, 2012 Lead dog climbed to within a foot of the lower off but due to injury down climbed to final bolt and escaped left onto neighbouring route to lower off.
climbed to within a foot of the lower off but due to injury down climbed to final bolt and escaped left onto neighbouring route to lower off.
tomB 15 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with Jody
with Jody
john rensten 7 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
UnkArl 8 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S Cracking route! Really pleased to get the onsight of this, after just doing Wedding Daze (6b). Got quite pumped on the steep first section, I went up the corner and Matt went straight up the face which maybe looked easier. There's a couple of good rests before you launch up the (completely different) top section which is pretty spicy!
with Matt
Cracking route! Really pleased to get the onsight of this, after just doing Wedding Daze (6b). Got quite pumped on the steep first section, I went up the corner and Matt went straight up the face which maybe looked easier. There's a couple of good rests before you launch up the (completely different) top section which is pretty spicy!
with Matt
joe1joe1joe2 20 Jun, 2012 Lead β All these routes were climbed between 15th-22nd June 2012. Fantastic climbing.
All these routes were climbed between 15th-22nd June 2012. Fantastic climbing.
Coops_13 19 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S Awesome route :)
with Tom Sturgeon
Awesome route :)
with Tom Sturgeon
adam 24 13 May, 2012 Lead O/S
lewiz 5 May, 2012 Lead rpt
Gambit 2 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
with barney1
with barney1
Abi Chard 2 Mar, 2012 Lead dnf Fell from last move - rope caught round leg and flipped upside down.
Fell from last move - rope caught round leg and flipped upside down.
Hidden ?Mar, 2012 TR
dale1968 11 Nov, 2011 2nd
Hidden 11 Nov, 2011 Lead RP
will black 15 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
lewiz 8 Oct, 2011 Lead dog Big fall run out at the top
with inomine
Big fall run out at the top
with inomine
jennym32 27 Aug, 2011 2nd dog Much too hard for me to do clean - got mostly boosted over the overhang by Mark belaying!
with Mark Bown
Much too hard for me to do clean - got mostly boosted over the overhang by Mark belaying!
with Mark Bown
Hidden 23 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
elCapitano 13 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 25 Jun, 2011 Lead dnf last move felt hard again. boo.
with claudio, simon, benscarter
last move felt hard again. boo.
with claudio, simon, benscarter
Daniel Wicks 10 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 May, 2011 Lead dnf
Hidden 13 May, 2011 TR dog
Jonathan Emett 24 Apr, 2011 Lead rpt last move felt easy after a winter at the wall.
last move felt easy after a winter at the wall.
Hidden 24 Apr, 2011 2nd
Gareth 23 Apr, 2011 Lead dog Fell at last move, pleased and gutted as nearest i've got to 6c onsite. Good route.
Fell at last move, pleased and gutted as nearest i've got to 6c onsite. Good route.
natalietanzer 17 Mar, 2011 Lead dog
with will
with will
wi11 17 Mar, 2011 Lead dnf
Kopinski 5 Feb, 2011 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 24 Oct, 2010 Lead rpt
Caspian Johnson 24 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
with Iain adams, Dan_Carroll
with Iain adams, Dan_Carroll
Jonathan Emett 18 Sep, 2010 Lead dnf couldn't work out the very last move.
couldn't work out the very last move.
Hidden 30 Aug, 2010 Lead β
Hidden 30 Aug, 2010 TR O/S
duncan 31 Jul, 2010 Lead dnf
with Jan Zapal
with Jan Zapal
keithpeck 16 May, 2010 Lead O/S Being presented with that move at the end is harder to deal with than actually doing it.
Being presented with that move at the end is harder to deal with than actually doing it.
SamuelHarris 16 May, 2010 TR dnf Failed at the final move after moving out onto the arete.
Failed at the final move after moving out onto the arete.
ruaidh 15 May, 2010 Lead dnf Really nice 6a+/6b climbing up to the last move, then - bam! - 6c. Couldn't make the last RH edge. I'll be back for you, sunshine.
with oli
Really nice 6a+/6b climbing up to the last move, then - bam! - 6c. Couldn't make the last RH edge. I'll be back for you, sunshine.
with oli
ThomasB ?Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
GarethHall 21 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 21 Feb, 2010 Lead O/S
Jane Weir ??, 2010 -
Ed Babs 31 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
with Mike Hawkins
dan gibson 4 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson
with jacquie robinson
A Downing 20 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
with Damian, Len, Gaz & Dan
with Damian, Len, Gaz & Dan
hamish2016 3 May, 2009 Lead O/S
with matt savage
with matt savage
breed 14 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Feb, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Dec, 2008 Lead O/S
vertigo 3 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Jun, 2008 Lead RP
PKR 10 Apr, 2008 Lead RP Great Climb once you get the sequence.
Great Climb once you get the sequence.
Monk 5 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S Felt reasonably easy but I'm only 5'7".
with Mandy
Felt reasonably easy but I'm only 5'7".
with Mandy
Richard Horn 18 Mar, 2008 Lead RP
Dandan ??, 2008 Lead O/S
with Rich
with Rich
chiverstom 11 Nov, 2007 Lead dog
with Ivo
with Ivo
spacey 27 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
with jo macey
with jo macey
JPGR 10 Mar, 2007 Lead dog
with Andy
with Andy
bigie bob 25 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 25 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
cmsg 18 Jun, 2006 Lead dnf
with Vincent Lauffer
with Vincent Lauffer
dannyboy83 ?May, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Apr, 2006 Lead dog
Marti999 ??, 2006 Lead
Hidden 27 Mar, 2005 Lead RP
homing-penguin 25 Aug, 2004 Lead dog nails.
nails.
goi.ashmore 15 May, 2004 Lead O/S
with Duncan Powell
with Duncan Powell
Mark Stevenson 26 Jun, 2002 Lead O/S
with Mike Smith
with Mike Smith
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead
Kevster ??, 1996 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
10 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set