Rockfax Description
The best pitch here up the blunt arete on its right-hand side. Tough at the top and requiring a long reach. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Vaicaitis 31.8.97 31/Aug/1997

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Portland.

Rockmonkey1977 24/Sep Lead dog

Again this route has defeated me and again I think it's harder than 6c! It's probably 6b/+ climbing to the crux but that last move... I'm not sure whether I'm missing something? Maybe next time if I can actually remember the beta...

Rockmonkey1977 24/Sep Lead
will_of_fortune 28/Aug Lead dnf
AAhmed 19/Aug Lead RP

First time round - Took two big falls on the last demanding move.

with ngreen
ngreen 19/Aug Lead β
nickhamb 12/Aug Lead dog

Easy climb but fell on the last section, the crux of the route. The Crux is pretty committing with a big reach. Shame as I almost on sighted that!

Linc 12/Aug Lead O/S
with Kay
mattx1123 30/Jul Lead dnf

Lead to final bolt, but then fell repeatedly (and some distance!) at crux, knackering! Jamie sent it and then George and I doggedly T/R'd it.

with Jamie S, Georgina bough
Hidden 22/Jul Lead O/S
Geras 08/Jul TR dog
cdpuk 08/Jul Lead O/S

Didn't find the top moves particularly long, but committing and insecure, yes!

Dugster 08/Jul TR

Could not quite finish the top

with Gilbert
ngreen ?/Jul Lead dnf
with Steve
Hidden 24/Jun Lead dnf
Hidden 04/Jun TR dnf
adamsriches 27/May Lead dnf

Last move, very hard to do or hard to work out. Took some big falls trying to figure out how to grab the top. Had to bail in the end.

Steph Roberts 21/May 2nd
with Sam
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 21/May Lead rpt
with Steph
Roland stopps 07/May TR
Jay-Ast 16/Apr Lead O/S
with Rosyk
Carl 21/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Done clean up to the last bolt before the anchor, then spent a while taking lobs trying to figure out the last move or two! Couldn't find the feet, think I should have been doing some sort of layback... Ended up bailing off a maillon which was conveniently and promptly retrieved by another climber!

with Jessie Reid
La benya 21/Aug/16 Lead dog

Last bolt is positioned really badly. If you commit to the top and blow it, the ledge below awaits your ankles/ head if you get wrapped around the rope (because the bolts in the wrong place) the hardest move on the wall...?

chancer 14/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Lovely climbing up to the malion. Needs another staple after the last one to prevent falling onto the ledge.

with Ed Wigmore
td72 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Katie
Hidden 03/Jul/16 Lead dog
hfotheri 25/Jun/16 Lead dog

Almost clean but messed up last move which is a bit commiting

Rockmonkey1977 31/May/16 Lead dog

Being my 4th day straight it's hard to know how much fatigue played a part but I thought the last move was tricky (in fact desperate) for 6c... I took some fun whippers working it out though!

tsyrett 07/May/16 Lead RP

Backed off the last move first go. Scraped my way up to the lower off and then send it first red point after a bit of top rope work. Pretty desperate for feet!

AJ007 01/May/16 Lead RP
MichaelGallimore 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Flavio, Ben Philips, Ellie
FlavioL1989 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/16 Lead dog
Sam4242 23/Mar/16 Lead O/S
WilliamD 25/Oct/15 Lead dnf

Fell off at the last move before anchors and inverted myself. Not a nice last move.

wyzfen 27/Sep/15 TR dog

Easy lead to last clip, but needed top-rope for last move.

with Dana
danusiatycia 27/Sep/15 TR
leglesslizard 06/Sep/15 Lead RP
tomwright1509 28/Jul/15 Lead β
SDM 18/Jul/15 Lead dnf

Didn't work out/wouldn't commit to the final move

with Michael
Hidden 18/Jul/15 TR dog
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/15 Lead β
xiangoh ?/Jul/15 Lead β
hervenuttall ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Doug
Hidden 06/Jun/15 2nd dnf
Hidden 04/May/15 Lead β
Rupey 04/May/15 Lead RP
with alan
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 12/Apr/15 Lead RP

Clip stick to the top and the final move is instantly worked out, bit thin for the feet but ok, maybe 6b?

with Dan, Pat, Rob Gates, Steph
Sam4242 06/Apr/15 Lead dog
Jack Shewring 05/Apr/15 Lead dnf

Got all the way to the last bolt on the onsight. Couldn't work out the top to clip the chains. Took massive whipper.

Dibdawg 05/Apr/15 Lead dog

Nails finish and a choice of direction.

jamesb101 31/Jan/15 Lead O/S
with Rob Saxton
RadekNowak 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
philhaigh 30/Jul/14 Lead RP
with Shamina Kapadia
bryan61 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Didn't find the last move too bad. Nor particularly reachy. Maybe I did something weird.

drcorbasisgod 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S
mattgrange 25/May/14 Lead dnf

Top moves reachy and quite blind,rather unnerving. Sweaty greasy conditions did not help!

Cheese Monkey 09/May/14 Lead O/S
pheotleyr 09/May/14 TR dnf

Couldn't do the first loooong move of the crux headwall.

with Alex
Alex Winter 09/May/14 Lead O/S

Took me a while to figure out the top.

with Ben's stag
kingborris ??/2014 -
BenL 24/Aug/13 Lead β
with Angus Webb
Hidden 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Uberpussy 10/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Great route, took a whipper after a few aborted attempts at top section, will be back to get this one clean.

Jonathan Emett 04/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Paul
philhaigh 18/Jul/13 Lead dog

The jug near the top seemed to lead me into a blind alley - then going left/direct was a bit reachy (on awful left foot).

with Shamina Kapadia
phardy 30/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Last move is scary and run out... took a couple of big falls but found nothing at the top to grab onto. Amazing (type 2) fun.

JamesRich 23/Jun/13 TR dog
with Alex Rhodes, Rob stanfield, Jack Bradbrook
Quarryboy 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Absolute bollocks for your feet at the top, pretty much forced to campus the last move.

with Alex Rhodes, James Rich, Rob Stanfield
Stanners 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Alex Rhodes, James Rich, Jack Bradbrook
Jus 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S
LucasHarazin 27/May/13 Lead β
Jobbo 04/May/13 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 28/Apr/13 Lead dnf

Top was way too run out with blind moves - not for me.

dprctr 09/Mar/13 Lead dog

Would have got this if the rain hadnt made the top crux crimp wet!

with Fiona McFarlane
chrisclimber ??/2013 -
mark schramm 08/Dec/12 Lead dog

1 rest.

with Lyndsay
Lyndsay Superclimber 08/Dec/12 Lead dnf

Onsighted it up until the last move. Then took a whipper trying to figure it out. Managed it on top rope later so I'll be back!

with Mark S
bradfry 11/Nov/12 Lead dog

easy 'til last sequence. You hope after the three crappy moves that you'll find a jug to get the last clip from - you won't.

Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead β
robajob 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
jon_gill1 22/Sep/12 Lead dog

climbed to within a foot of the lower off but due to injury down climbed to final bolt and escaped left onto neighbouring route to lower off.

tomB 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Jody
john rensten 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with ellie
UnkArl 08/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Cracking route! Really pleased to get the onsight of this, after just doing Wedding Daze (6b). Got quite pumped on the steep first section, I went up the corner and Matt went straight up the face which maybe looked easier. There's a couple of good rests before you launch up the (completely different) top section which is pretty spicy!

with Matt
joe1joe1joe2 20/Jun/12 Lead β

All these routes were climbed between 15th-22nd June 2012. Fantastic climbing.

Coops_13 19/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Awesome route :)

with Tom Sturgeon
adam 24 13/May/12 Lead O/S
lewiz 05/May/12 Lead rpt
Gambit 02/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Barney
Abi Chard 02/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Fell from last move - rope caught round leg and flipped upside down.

Hidden ?/Mar/12 TR
dale1968 11/Nov/11 2nd
with Tom
Hidden 11/Nov/11 Lead RP
will black 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
lewiz 08/Oct/11 Lead dog

Big fall run out at the top

jennym32 27/Aug/11 2nd dog

Much too hard for me to do clean - got mostly boosted over the overhang by Mark belaying!

with Mark Bown
Hidden 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
elCapitano 13/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 25/Jun/11 Lead dnf

last move felt hard again. boo.

with claudio, simon, ben
Daniel Wicks 10/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 13/May/11 TR dog
Jonathan Emett 24/Apr/11 Lead rpt

last move felt easy after a winter at the wall.

Hidden 24/Apr/11 2nd
Gareth 23/Apr/11 Lead dog

Fell at last move, pleased and gutted as nearest i've got to 6c onsite. Good route.

with Mark
natalietanzer 17/Mar/11 Lead dog
with will
wi11 17/Mar/11 Lead dnf
with Nat
Kopinski 05/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 24/Oct/10 Lead rpt
Caspian Johnson 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Iain adams, Dan carrol
Jonathan Emett 18/Sep/10 Lead dnf

couldn't work out the very last move.

with Lyndsay
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead β
Hidden 30/Aug/10 TR O/S
duncan 31/Jul/10 Lead dnf
with Jan Zapal
keithpeck 16/May/10 Lead O/S

Being presented with that move at the end is harder to deal with than actually doing it.

SamuelHarris 16/May/10 TR dnf

Failed at the final move after moving out onto the arete.

ruaidh 15/May/10 Lead dnf

Really nice 6a+/6b climbing up to the last move, then - bam! - 6c. Couldn't make the last RH edge. I'll be back for you, sunshine.

with oli
ThomasB ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
GarethHall 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 21/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
Ed Babs 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
dan gibson 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson
A Downing 20/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Damian, Len, Gaz & Dan
hamish2016 03/May/09 Lead O/S
with matt savage
breed 14/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Dec/08 Lead O/S
vertigo 03/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/08 Lead RP
PKR 10/Apr/08 Lead RP

Great Climb once you get the sequence.

Monk 05/Apr/08 Lead O/S

Felt reasonably easy but I'm only 5'7".

with Mandy
Richard Horn 18/Mar/08 Lead RP
Dandan82 ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Rich
chiverstom 11/Nov/07 Lead dog
with Ivo
spacey 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with jo macey
JPGR 10/Mar/07 Lead dog
with Andy
bigie bob 25/Jul/06 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 25/Jun/06 Lead O/S
cmsg 18/Jun/06 Lead dnf
with Vincent Lauffer
dannyboy83 ?/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/06 Lead dog
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/05 Lead RP
homing-penguin 25/Aug/04 Lead dog


goi.ashmore 15/May/04 Lead O/S
with Duncan Powell
Mark Stevenson 26/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Mike Smith
Kevster ??/1996 -
The Jazz Butcher ??/1995 -
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Votes cast 30
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