14m.

Rockfax Description
An amazing effort for its day. Climb the lower slab right of centre to a break and runners. Step right and balance up the slab, using an undercut ear to make a tricky mantel/high step well above the gear. Continue to the next break and escape right. © Rockfax

Frank Elliott 1930

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Peak Rock/4/ Universities,Teams and Clubs in the 1930's, 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit

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UserDateNotes
flatdave 11 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: It's not as bold as you think!!! There are good tricams in the pocket on the traverse and the one above to protect the scoop!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It's not as bold as you think!!! There are good tricams in the pocket on the traverse and the one above to protect the scoop!
gav p 18 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route, maybe a bit contrived at the top. I thought the crux in the top scoop was 5b, and found the awkward moves round the bulge at half-height harder and just as bold. Having a long reach probably helps for the top move though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice route, maybe a bit contrived at the top. I thought the crux in the top scoop was 5b, and found the awkward moves round the bulge at half-height harder and just as bold. Having a long reach probably helps for the top move though.
Furzy Sleight 4 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Well, in reply to Mike Raine: That move at the top (the no hands rockover) is definately 5B/C and at that point the only gear (one cam) is way below you, so i would call that E2/3 (Harder than "three steps to heaven"!!!!!)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well, in reply to Mike Raine: That move at the top (the no hands rockover) is definately 5B/C and at that point the only gear (one cam) is way below you, so i would call that E2/3 (Harder than "three steps to heaven"!!!!!)
nige pacer 4 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The combination of the two routes in the database is a shame, making the comments confusing. Great Route though(the E2 that is).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The combination of the two routes in the database is a shame, making the comments confusing. Great Route though(the E2 that is).
Mark Stevenson 8 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Backed off this (was leading f7a+ day before) so can't imagine it's E1. Will return when feeling suitably pysched.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Backed off this (was leading f7a+ day before) so can't imagine it's E1. Will return when feeling suitably pysched.
Jon Stewart 5 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: If this was graded E1 5a, I'd have a crack at it and get the shock of my life.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If this was graded E1 5a, I'd have a crack at it and get the shock of my life.
Mark Davies PK 10 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Very nice run out and balancy. camtastic!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very nice run out and balancy. camtastic!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 11 Oct Solo
AlexBclimbing 3 Oct Solo O/S
SCClimb 2 Oct Lead rpt As part of the direct finish.
As part of the direct finish.
dynoseb 13 Sep Lead O/S
SCClimb 29 Aug Lead O/S
TBH1994 18 Aug Lead O/S
Nick1812P 4 Jul Solo O/S
Dr Toph 23 Jun Solo O/S
Hidden 19 Jun Lead O/S
AlexMorris 1 Jun Lead O/S Took a while to commit to the mantel, felt very serious...missed a runner out right?? Lovely move though :) Intended to do the E3 but was a tad spooked so bailed up the arete.
Took a while to commit to the mantel, felt very serious...missed a runner out right?? Lovely move though :) Intended to do the E3 but was a tad spooked so bailed up the arete.
martinbettridge06 28 Apr Lead O/S
Ian Saxton 28 Apr 2nd
jimbonfire 28 Apr Lead good moves over the bulge, easier after seeing Martin on how to do it
with TT
good moves over the bulge, easier after seeing Martin on how to do it
with TT
Dave Richards 13 Apr 2nd O/S Had a tight rope for the crux moves
with Ben21
Had a tight rope for the crux moves
with Ben21
K Farrell 13 Apr 2nd β
Ben21 13 Apr Lead O/S
jimlear 7 Apr Lead O/S Pretty easy for E2. Too hungover for E3 finish.
Pretty easy for E2. Too hungover for E3 finish.
Alex hall 20 Mar Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Mar Lead O/S
philgillespie 28 Jan Lead O/S
Jwatson 23 Jan Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Jan 2nd rpt
clanger ?? -
josh12345 18 Nov, 2018 2nd
Hidden 18 Nov, 2018 Lead
AJ007 28 Oct, 2018 2nd
Dohnny_Jawes 28 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
Martin Bagshaw 28 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
with Matthew Porter
with Matthew Porter
Jimmy1976 20 Oct, 2018 2nd dog
with Matt
with Matt
WillRhodes 7 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S Took a while to commit and do. Awesome move.
with Emma
Took a while to commit and do. Awesome move.
with Emma
Pero 26 Sep, 2018 TR
Hidden 24 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
AF Webb 23 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
Mischa2912 19 Jul, 2018 Solo O/S
The Reaper 12 Jul, 2018 TR rpt Shunt
Shunt
Bangflopnot 21 Jun, 2018 2nd Great slab almost dino move to the pocket and match to the break on very little feet smears, using the undercut ear on the right and a high left foot, with a small left hand crimp, managed a rock over and moving the right hand round the ear, looked and probably felt less desperate than `Jon’s over the top bold move! Amazing in balance move that will stay with me for a while :)
Great slab almost dino move to the pocket and match to the break on very little feet smears, using the undercut ear on the right and a high left foot, with a small left hand crimp, managed a rock over and moving the right hand round the ear, looked and probably felt less desperate than `Jon’s over the top bold move! Amazing in balance move that will stay with me for a while :)
Hidden 21 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
mop449 15 Jun, 2018 2nd
RosieYates 15 Jun, 2018 Lead RP First E2 lead. Top roped once first and had previously done the VS version. Very nice.
with mop449
First E2 lead. Top roped once first and had previously done the VS version. Very nice.
with mop449
tasp05 27 May, 2018 TR O/S
with Twiggy
with Twiggy
NinaR 22 May, 2018 2nd O/S
Hidden 14 Apr, 2018 TR
morganator 8 Apr, 2018 Lead
Hidden 16 Feb, 2018 2nd rpt
Gordon W 29 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
with Leona+nick
with Leona+nick
Carl 8 May, 2017 Lead O/S First E2, cranked pretty hard on a pebble! Assumed that the scoop to the left around the crux move wasn't in.
First E2, cranked pretty hard on a pebble! Assumed that the scoop to the left around the crux move wasn't in.
thel33ter 8 May, 2017 2nd O/S Fun, hard move was ok with the dish out left. Not sure if it was in.
with Carl
Fun, hard move was ok with the dish out left. Not sure if it was in.
with Carl
lukevf 8 May, 2017 Lead β First E2
with Carl, thel33ter, Phil b
First E2
with Carl, thel33ter, Phil b
Phil 8 May, 2017 2nd O/S The move was very cool.
with lukevf
The move was very cool.
with lukevf
Hidden 7 May, 2017 TR
BrennyCo 23 Apr, 2017 Sent x
Didymus 25 Mar, 2017 2nd O/S
richiebongo 25 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S Quite serious but just one hard move.
with Didymus
Quite serious but just one hard move.
with Didymus
FelixJT 12 Mar, 2017 Lead didn't notice the ride runner on the right, felt serious.
didn't notice the ride runner on the right, felt serious.
WilliamRupp 12 Mar, 2017 2nd
with FelixJT
with FelixJT
JulesV ??, 2017 -
Markheighton 22 Oct, 2016 2nd
Alex_Derbyshire 22 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
Andy Moles 7 Oct, 2016 TR
with shunt
with shunt
amccann 3 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
with dom94
with dom94
dom94 3 Oct, 2016 Lead β
with amccann
with amccann
Calum Wadsworth 27 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Into the direct finish, best way to do the slab?
Into the direct finish, best way to do the slab?
Teappleby 27 Jul, 2016 Lead
with Lucy Stockton, Hanniric, Calum Wadsworth
with Lucy Stockton, Hanniric, Calum Wadsworth
Hidden 27 Jul, 2016 2nd
Teappleby 26 Jul, 2016 Solo
Graeme Hammond 19 Apr, 2016 Lead RP As part of the direct finish
As part of the direct finish
mike8331 13 Mar, 2016 TR
Sam McCarthy 23 Feb, 2016 Lead O/S
ian d f 14 Feb, 2016 Lead O/S
onlyfoddington 14 Feb, 2016 2nd β I likened my attempt at the crux to repeatedly kicking a small child in the face - though it did work, just.
with ian d f
I likened my attempt at the crux to repeatedly kicking a small child in the face - though it did work, just.
with ian d f
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Flavio 12 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
rajeshwarbisht 12 Jul, 2015 2nd dog
with Flavio
with Flavio
Wil Treasure 16 May, 2015 Lead
with Everyone!
with Everyone!
Canyak ??, 2015 -
dan_o_b ??, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 6 Dec, 2014 Lead O/S
cem 5 Oct, 2014 Lead dnf Unwilling to commit to the crux moves and scuttled off leftwards to Bridge's Variation.
Unwilling to commit to the crux moves and scuttled off leftwards to Bridge's Variation.
bencole ?Sep, 2014 Lead
David Mayers 12 Aug, 2014 2nd
with Stuart Howard
with Stuart Howard
wazzalad20 ?Aug, 2014 Lead rpt
wazzalad20 3 May, 2014 Lead O/S First E2 onsight, what a route!
with anna henshaw
First E2 onsight, what a route!
with anna henshaw
pie_eater_pete 21 Mar, 2014 Lead
bwestwood 10 Mar, 2014 2nd
soph 9 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
with Andy Reeve
Hidden ?Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
Dan Arkle ??, 2014 -
joese7en 17 Dec, 2013 Lead O/S
rurp 12 Nov, 2013 Lead Great moves, too scared to finish direct but still a great climb
with bill farmer
Great moves, too scared to finish direct but still a great climb
with bill farmer
Wil Treasure 10 Nov, 2013 Lead
BLodge 10 Nov, 2013 2nd
chrishedgehog 8 Sep, 2013 2nd O/S
with S. Hunt
with S. Hunt
Gudge 28 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Superb although found crux puzzling and wasn't too sure about the gear. Put another cam in and went for it!
with Alex Johnstone
Superb although found crux puzzling and wasn't too sure about the gear. Put another cam in and went for it!
with Alex Johnstone
tim_mcd 10 Aug, 2013 2nd
Hidden 10 Aug, 2013 Lead β
Hidden 6 Aug, 2013 Lead rpt
EmileCilliers 6 Jun, 2013 Lead dog
Zoomer 6 Jun, 2013 TR O/S Excellent climbing.
with A Student
Excellent climbing.
with A Student
Jake Young 31 May, 2013 Lead β
with Callum
with Callum
Goose4 27 May, 2013 Lead O/S
with Sophie Heron
with Sophie Heron
manwithacam 27 May, 2013 Lead
with Dom
with Dom
Neil McA 19 May, 2013 2nd rpt
with Mik Barbiero
with Mik Barbiero
jwhereat 6 May, 2013 TR O/S
Cake 7 Apr, 2013 Sent β Snowball to the VS traverse
Snowball to the VS traverse
Andy Peak 1 2 Mar, 2013 Lead
with H washbrook
with H washbrook
Hidden 27 Feb, 2013 Solo rpt
profonrock ?Jan, 2013 2nd
JayAyBee ??, 2013 Lead O/S
James Oswald 9 Oct, 2012 2nd
victim of mathematics 9 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S No idea where or what you'd mantel, rocking up facing left seemed the obvious move. Easy for 5b, but felt exciting given the dubious gear. First E2 in the UK. Whoop.
No idea where or what you'd mantel, rocking up facing left seemed the obvious move. Easy for 5b, but felt exciting given the dubious gear. First E2 in the UK. Whoop.
deacondeacon 17 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S I've done a few of the other routes on the slab so not a true onsight. Planned to try the direct finish but didn't have a cam to fit the pocket up high so slinked off right onto this. great route.
I've done a few of the other routes on the slab so not a true onsight. Planned to try the direct finish but didn't have a cam to fit the pocket up high so slinked off right onto this. great route.
derekb 9 Sep, 2012 2nd
with leon
with leon
leon 9 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S down climbed from the crux on this two or three week s ago. found it hard to commit until i was able to visualize exactly how i thought the crux would go. went quite easily then. missed the rest of the cam slots so opted to finish up the e2 rather than down climb to gear & fall off.
with derekb
down climbed from the crux on this two or three week s ago. found it hard to commit until i was able to visualize exactly how i thought the crux would go. went quite easily then. missed the rest of the cam slots so opted to finish up the e2 rather than down climb to gear & fall off.
with derekb
London Luke ?Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
rustaldo 11 Aug, 2012 Solo O/S set out to do the E3 version with the direct finish but kopped out.
set out to do the E3 version with the direct finish but kopped out.
roberto18 28 Jul, 2012 Lead
with Tom Nickols
with Tom Nickols
phardman 5 May, 2012 Lead rpt
mtempest 31 Mar, 2012 Lead
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 31 Mar, 2012 2nd A great lead by Mike. With a cam either side of him he rose to the key hold and then - after a number of practice moves he committed and it stuck. I seconded in true mantelshelf stylee due to the usual lack of flex.
A great lead by Mike. With a cam either side of him he rose to the key hold and then - after a number of practice moves he committed and it stuck. I seconded in true mantelshelf stylee due to the usual lack of flex.
Guy Wilson 30 Mar, 2012 -
with Rick Cotgreave
with Rick Cotgreave
mark20 1 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden 28 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
akhughes 23 Oct, 2011 Solo β
Hidden 15 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 15 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S Harrowing for a very short spell... I'm sure there are various different ways to either do it or screw it up!
Harrowing for a very short spell... I'm sure there are various different ways to either do it or screw it up!
SGD 14 Aug, 2011 Lead I do love this route, felt really steady today, again was going to do the direct finish but was put off by the wind :(
with vholmes
I do love this route, felt really steady today, again was going to do the direct finish but was put off by the wind :(
with vholmes
London Luke ?Aug, 2011 Lead
Will Beaumont 18 Jun, 2011 TR O/S
robman 31 May, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
chris wyatt 15 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with steve tree
with steve tree
Rachel Slater 2 Apr, 2011 Solo O/S
with Olli-C
with Olli-C
MorganPreece 29 Mar, 2011 Solo β Easy with some Beta from max!
Easy with some Beta from max!
quiffhanger 12 Feb, 2011 Solo
harvie 16 Nov, 2010 Solo O/S
Ollie B 24 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
with S.Bennett
with S.Bennett
Hidden 17 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
Birdo 30 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
with Dave Bird
with Dave Bird
rockfrog70 21 Sep, 2010 Lead RP A good route, one scary move on which I got my foot hooked on a CAM attached to my harness and had to let go mid crux move to free it! Do Not Let This Route Lull You Into Thinking E2 is easy this is very very low in the grade.
A good route, one scary move on which I got my foot hooked on a CAM attached to my harness and had to let go mid crux move to free it! Do Not Let This Route Lull You Into Thinking E2 is easy this is very very low in the grade.
RagingPuffin 12 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
with Claire
with Claire
Hidden 12 Sep, 2010 2nd O/S
Lev 12 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
with Emma
with Emma
LankyPaddy 5 Sep, 2010 Lead rpt
with Alistair Ross
with Alistair Ross
Pythonist 1 Sep, 2010 Solo O/S Airy, but obvious and relatively straight-forward crux. The rest is standard fun slab work.
with mark20
Airy, but obvious and relatively straight-forward crux. The rest is standard fun slab work.
with mark20
Hidden 8 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
llamaglama 8 Aug, 2010 Lead
Diggler 24 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S Foolishly did the mantle facing left at about 5c
Foolishly did the mantle facing left at about 5c
theotherpetehill 11 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S Right-hand finish (ran away onto the arete)
Right-hand finish (ran away onto the arete)
Hidden 4 May, 2010 Solo O/S
oliverthomp 28 Apr, 2010 Solo O/S
Hidden 21 Apr, 2010 Solo rpt
tom.e 25 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S
with malx
with malx
Pete Graham 11 Mar, 2010 Solo
Hidden ?Dec, 2009 -
Jonathan Hall 28 Oct, 2009 TR
Jonathan Hall 28 Oct, 2009 Lead rpt
SGD 9 Oct, 2009 Lead rpt
with Dale
with Dale
SGD 16 Dec, 2008 Solo right facing mantel? - I rocked up facing left?? great route, for me the crux was getting to the 1st break, did the e2 finish as I didn't like the reach....
right facing mantel? - I rocked up facing left?? great route, for me the crux was getting to the 1st break, did the e2 finish as I didn't like the reach....
SGD 6 Dec, 2008 Solo O/S I do like this climb - still haven't done the E3 finish though....need a rope for that one
I do like this climb - still haven't done the E3 finish though....need a rope for that one
Hidden 26 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
steveb2006 17 Aug, 2008 Lead Back off the very direct finish
with Roland Smith
Back off the very direct finish
with Roland Smith
gazfellows 21 Apr, 2008 2nd
lowersharpnose 1 Jan, 2008 Lead O/S
with Danger
with Danger
Sidekick ??, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Oct, 2007 Solo O/S
Hidden 2 Jun, 2006 TR
richgac 2 Oct, 2005 2nd O/S
with Nick
with Nick
Hidden ??, 2005 Lead O/S
nige pacer 3 Oct, 2004 Lead O/S
Ben1983 ??, 2004 Lead O/S
Gus 5 Aug, 2002 Lead O/S
with luisa giles
with luisa giles
Ben Bransby 19 Apr, 2002 Solo
gonggashan ?Jun, 2001 2nd
with Ben S
with Ben S
Strong Steve 16 Feb, 2001 Lead O/S
DavidBarraclough ??, 1996 Lead O/S
The Reaper 23 Jun, 1994 TR O/S Shunt
Shunt
NeilGriffiths ??, 1994 Lead Couldn't find a hold on direct finish and slunk off right
Couldn't find a hold on direct finish and slunk off right
Alan Scowcroft 9 May, 1993 2nd
Hidden ??, 1993 Lead
D Tempest 13 Sep, 1992 Lead
Hidden ?Aug, 1992 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 Apr, 1991 2nd
Rob Davies 23 Apr, 1991 TR
Hidden ??, 1991 -
Hidden ?Apr, 1990 TR
Alan Scowcroft 14 May, 1989 TR
phardman 3 May, 1989 Solo β
goi.ashmore 20 Mar, 1988 Solo O/S
Neil McA 22 Sep, 1987 Solo rpt
Rob Seymour 30 Aug, 1985 2nd
with Jim Seymour
with Jim Seymour
Neil McA 30 Jul, 1985 Lead O/S
with Tom Lewis, Pete Gronbech
with Tom Lewis, Pete Gronbech
Hidden 2 Jul, 1985 Solo
Rob Seymour 5 Aug, 1984 Lead
with Jim Seymour, Stu Mackay
with Jim Seymour, Stu Mackay
Dave Musgrove 15 Jul, 1984 Lead O/S
with Keith Bostrum
with Keith Bostrum
Hidden 19 May, 1984 Solo O/S
nbotting ??, 1982 -
andy gittins ??, 1982 -
Rob Davies ??, 1981 2nd Date?
with Tony Welsh
Date?
with Tony Welsh
Rick51 8 Jun, 1980 2nd
Hidden 16 Jun, 1979 Lead
mikej 5 Oct, 1969 TR
with E C/W
with E C/W
mikej 28 Apr, 1968 TR
with Geoff Williams
with Geoff Williams
mikej 28 Apr, 1968 Lead dnf
with Geoff Williams
with Geoff Williams
mikej 1 May, 1966 TR
with Mike Byles
with Mike Byles
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 32
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Not Set