85m, 3 pitches.
This climbs the fault-line dividing the two right-hand sections of the buttress, starting 40m left of Noe Gully. The route requires some build up of ice.
1. 30m The fault-line starts up an overhanging left-facing corner. Climb the steep right wall of the corner via a turfy crack and continue straight up to belay on a good ledge below and to the right of the continuation chimney.
2. 40m Step left 2m, surmount a short wall and slab to enter the chimney. Climb the chimney to an impasse, make hard moves to exit out right and continue up the steep groove/left-facing corner to below a deep, wide crack/corner (visible from the ground). Spectacular bridging leads to a good belay.
3. 15m Easy ground leads to the top.
1. 30m The fault-line starts up an overhanging left-facing corner. Climb the steep right wall of the corner via a turfy crack and continue straight up to belay on a good ledge below and to the right of the continuation chimney.
2. 40m Step left 2m, surmount a short wall and slab to enter the chimney. Climb the chimney to an impasse, make hard moves to exit out right and continue up the steep groove/left-facing corner to below a deep, wide crack/corner (visible from the ground). Spectacular bridging leads to a good belay.
3. 15m Easy ground leads to the top.
I. Small, C. Cartwright 12/Feb/2003.
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Route of Interest
Transition
Grade: VI 7 ***
(Beinn Udlaidh)