UKC

500m, 11 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A satisfying and logical line, with varied and sustained climbing.
Start below the prominent series of corners and cracks, forming the large corner on the face.
1) V+, 30m. Climb the crack on friable rock, move right around a bulge and continue up a slab to a stance.
2) VI-, 35m. Climb the continuation crack and a yellow flake to reach a narrow ledge.
3) VI, 15m. Climb a short yellow corner to reach another ledge.
4) VI-, 30m. Layback a flake above then climb a bulge and a corner-crack to reach an uncomfortable stance in a niche.
5) VI+, 20m. Continue in the corner, pull through an overhang and exit onto the halfway ledge. Pilastro di Mezzo goes left here.
6) VI-, 35m. Climb a technical slab direct then traverse left to a stance below a flake.
7) VI+, 30m. Climb the flake to reach a pale corner. Climb this direct and belay below a chimney.
8) VI, 20m. Climb the chimney then exit right, following moves right on grey rock.
9) VI, 35m. Climb direct to a roof and traverse left below it. Gain a chimney and climb this.
10) V+, 35m. Move right then continue direct to a stance at the base of a chimney.
11) III, 30m. Follow the chimney with easier climbing to exit onto the summit plateau. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Logical and extremely exposed line up the obvious corner to the left of the ”Grande Muro”. On the whole the route climbs up fairly solid rock, but in parts though this may be a bit friable.

S. Mayerl, M. Rohracher 1962.

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High VII-
Mid VII-
Low VII-
High VI+
Mid VI+
Low VI+
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
Route of Interest
La Prima Volta di Martina

Grade: VI+ ***
(Monte Popena Basso)

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