Rockfax Description
Good, physical climbing up the steep corner and narrow chimney/crack. A forceful approach pays dividends but don't forget to place the bomber gear. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, SW Climbs - Swanage, The V.S.+ Ticklist.

Pero 29/Sep TR

Fairly brutal climbing. Glad I didn't try to lead it.

Martin Haworth 24/Sep Lead O/S

Lead this after Andy had fallen off. Very greasy day.

with Andy
Andrew Sloan 24/Sep 2nd dog

Incredibly greasy. Fell low down on the lead, handed over to Martin. I couldn't even manage a clean second.

Hidden 18/Sep Lead rpt
The Screaming Finn 17/Sep Lead O/S

Lower section was quite greasy. Luckily found a bomber jam though so all was good.

Rob Moorcroft 17/Sep Lead
with Kris
chris cockbain 16/Sep Lead O/S

Moderately moist, also found it hard without big gear

Tom Draude 16/Sep 2nd O/S
with chris cockbain, Natalie
mikehenesy 12/Aug AltLd dog

Ah would have smashed it if I'd known it was HVS (VS in the climbers club). Alternate leads on a single pitch, how about that! Team siege technique. Dave stunned but not out when stuck gear freed and launched his face into the face.

tasp05 12/Aug AltLd dog

See Mike's description

Chris Sansum 12/Aug Lead

Really enjoyed this! Have 2 stars...

with Ewan Whitmey
DanC1985 05/Aug Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 17/Jul TR
Hidden 14/Jul TR
loonylovegood93 01/Jul 2nd dog
RM199 01/Jul Lead dog
Adam Hill 11/Jun -
will_of_fortune 11/Jun 2nd dog
Hidden 03/Jun 2nd O/S
ssutton 03/Jun Lead

Some pre-placed gear as partner backed off their lead attempt

with Adam
Guy Arnold 03/Jun Lead O/S
with Hannah
Carl 27/May Lead O/S

Cool climb! Was pretty greasy, luckily there were some nice jams to get through the hard moves.

Hidden 29/Apr TR
Mouse5 23/Apr 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Apr Lead O/S
Roland stopps 16/Apr Lead rpt
Kevin Cass 16/Apr 2nd rpt
with R. Stopps
Martin Bagshaw 15/Apr Lead O/S
with Rafal Malczyk
Rafal Malczyk 15/Apr 2nd O/S
with Martin Bagshaw
Hidden 10/Apr 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Mar 2nd
Mad Mongoose 11/Dec/16 2nd

Quite the battle but was an amazing climb *fist pumps air*

JoeCoxson 11/Dec/16 Lead O/S

Still taking the onsight, depite climbing to the first overhang early this year, but retreated after Wendy was hit by a wave. Burly moved, I can see why the guidebook hints to get a move on.

Hidden 27/Oct/16 TR
RagingPuffin 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Greasy holds and pumpage. A battle.

with heallan
Hidden 13/Aug/16 2nd dog
Hidden 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Lizard Ollie 05/Jul/16 2nd

Had to rest on the rope in an epic battle to remove a silver nut from the sedimentary grasp of the limestone.

Mattholland96 05/Jul/16 Lead
Hidden 03/Jul/16 2nd
Sam Mills 21/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Oliver Smaje 21/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Sam
Hidden 08/May/16 2nd O/S
SenzuBean 08/May/16 Lead dog

Nails hard! Climbing up and down multiple times, managed to get gear in for the crux, and suss some of the moves out. Finally went for it, and was just about to layback off of a flake out right when it rocked a good 3cm! Thought I was about to drop a brick onto my belayer and basically fell off from the shock of it. Rested on the ground, and managed it next go. Note to self: stop attempting thuggy HVSs.

with Andrew, Peter
mr random 30/Apr/16 Lead

Thuged up it couple of rests. It was a fight.

Rob Laird 30/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with B Sosin
ipegg 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Simon Hughes
TP 16/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Helen F
TP 09/Apr/16 Lead dog
with Frank A
Hidden 06/Mar/16 -
ChrisH_273 12/Sep/15 Lead dog
Dave Mahon 15/Aug/15 Lead

Good gear but hard going. It is all over in about 12m but every hold is hard won.

with Brian Mead
LJC 29/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Mark
MDR61 29/Jul/15 Lead

One small whipper

with Luca, Ben
mikeski ?/Jul/15 Lead
Superpump ?/Jul/15 2nd dog
with micky, mikeski
Jan.Hrb 13/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Ales
samohtdoowde 10/Feb/15 2nd dog
with Sam Ford
mattc 02/Jan/15 Lead dnf


ian bryant ??/2015 -
Hidden 06/Dec/14 2nd rpt
Bob M 03/Aug/14 TR

Top roped to check grade after some holds had come off. I always found this hard but now feels like HVS 5a/b.

Hidden 03/Aug/14 TR
brian watson 03/Aug/14 TR
riff156 06/Jul/14 Lead dog
with Jo Smith
Pintsize 25/May/14 2nd

Felt quite greasy. Didn't enjoy the bottom section!

will_benfold 25/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/14 TR rpt
Hidden 30/Apr/14 Lead O/S
leohl 16/Aug/13 2nd O/S
elbeanio 03/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Monkey_Alan 23/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Julian Prieto 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S
hector 10/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Mike Weatherill ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
danJBA 31/May/13 Lead O/S

Moved right at halfway and finished on Paralysis

Kayan 31/May/13 2nd
RKirke 26/May/13 Lead RP

It was a bit greasy on the key handholds.

Hidden 21/Apr/13 2nd
AlexD 21/Apr/13 Lead β
with Scott
neilwiltshire 20/Apr/13 AltLd

Lead the first half, then strayed unintentionally onto Paralysis, E2 5C. Couldn't do that and came down. Tim top roped to my high point and finished the route.

with Tim Cooper
daviesp2 20/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 15/Apr/13 Lead rpt
riff156 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Hannahc
Hidden ??/2013 Lead rpt
ianto ??/2013 -
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
windle 12/Sep/12 Lead dog

Lots of seepage on the route, crucial holds were slightly polished and soaking wet.

with james barry
Stroppy 12/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Rob Thomas
alastairbegley 28/Aug/12 Lead dnf

backed off, cracks damp & line looked unappealing once on the route so didn't seem worth it

Hidden 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/12 2nd rpt
Anthony Dixon 04/Aug/12 Lead
w-watson 17/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 16/Jun/12 Lead rpt
Monkey_Alan 13/Jun/12 Lead β

Finally got around to leading this, with Scott's helpful comments at the crux confirming my worst fears of the "trick".

Sophie Nunn 13/Jun/12 2nd rpt
with Alan, Scott
Hidden 13/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 26/May/12 TR
martin clarke 06/May/12 Lead

took over from john after going of line

with nick andrews, john frost
andrzej kierzek 01/Apr/12 Lead rpt

At the bottom of the chimney moved to the right into Paralysis (E2) and then moved back into the chimney. Off the route I guess, not really gradable, but still interesting climb, I fell off a year ago.

with Tara
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
MDR61 12/Mar/12 Lead rpt

A bit of a struggle but clean this time - what a great climb !

LukeyG 03/Mar/12 Lead

Pretty straightforward if you bridge out the corner most the way

Hidden ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/12 Lead
MDR61 29/Feb/12 Lead dnf

Very wet, but I made a complete dogs of it this time - fell off twice and gave up

with LukeyG
PAJames ??/2012 -
Pete Scott 12/Nov/11 2nd O/S
petecallaghan 23/Oct/11 2nd dog
with Nick Donohue
Hidden 16/Oct/11 Lead
Boogs 16/Oct/11 2nd dog
MDR61 26/Sep/11 Lead

Get in there, you beauty ! Finally nemesis led, all be it not an onsight - but still very happy. What a great climb (bit damp today though).

MDR61 23/Sep/11 TR O/S

After climbing badly all day didn't feel up to leading what I thought would be a real arm buster. Managed to climb it easily on top rope (and wish I had lead it). Next time. A really good climb (which stays in the obvious corner all the way up - slightly awkward move to left to gain upper crack, but its all there - looks like loads of gear placements as well).

with Nick
hotfeet 17/Sep/11 Lead

took a rest at crux

Hidden 17/Sep/11 2nd
oodie72 17/Sep/11 2nd O/S
jon_gill1 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

ok so i managed to end up leaving the corner and straying onto Paralysis which is the E2 5c,deciding itt felt bloody hard for Vs moved back into the corner chimney! Spoke to the legend Scott Titt who cleared things up for me explaining that "the line shown in the rockfax dorset guide is not very accurate and you should stick to the corner as the first ascentionist would have done". A pleasure meating you Scott and thanx again!

Hidden 14/Aug/11 2nd dog
martin one 31/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Gareth
jamespilgrim 27/May/11 Lead O/S
with Mark
haydng 21/May/11 Lead rpt
with RachelG
sambosanquet101 21/May/11 Lead
with Francy Carranza
tom.ireson 15/May/11 Lead O/S

Nearly lost a finger! stuck my hand in the pocket above the first bulge and then spent the next few minutes trying to get it back out! The rest of the climb felt incredibly hard after that as my right leg had got massively pumped but I think it is quite tricky anyway. Bomber gear all the way but only if you can stop to place it......

with David Proctor
dprctr 15/May/11 Lead O/S


Ceridwen 09/May/11 Lead dnf

Nails! No way VS!

RossT 09/Apr/11 2nd
with Tim Bee, Andrew Edwards
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
gingergeorge ?/Apr/11 Lead
Zoomer ?/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd
Hidden 22/Mar/11 2nd
Sophie Nunn 22/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Scott
jcook1980 ??/2011 Lead
steve newman ??/2011 -
Andy Chubb 10/Oct/10 Lead

Very hard first few moves.

with Jim Mulvaney
francesanncavanagh 08/Oct/10 2nd
with Haven Banks
Bobby Pearson 04/Sep/10 TR dog

V crimpy - fell off a couple of times - Matt did it.

with Tom Forbes, Matt Forbes
Hidden 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/10 2nd
adrianjenner 30/Jun/10 Lead O/S
andycash 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with charlie o'brian
Zoomer 05/Jun/10 2nd

Steady climbing to a rats move over the slab into the corner. Be VERY careful with a direct finish over the stacked blocks.

dale1968 21/May/10 2nd O/S

greasy hot

with Tom
Hidden 21/May/10 -
The Ivanator 03/May/10 2nd

Either we both climbed this completely wrong or it is a total stitch up at the grade. Not fun.

with Stewart
brian watson 27/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with anne marie sheppard
bigbobbyking 27/Feb/10 Lead dnf

Was coming round the bottom of the roof, fliddling some gear in, a bit gripped when a massive wave washed over the belay ledge! Soaked Chris and me! Retreated down the the ledge and were just thinking of what to do when another massive wave soaked us to the skin again. We jugged up the ab rope and went off for a cup of tea!

with Chris Allan
uncontrollable 20/Feb/10 Lead RP

finally managed to get round the roof.

with Des
Indy Nile 20/Feb/10 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Hidden 05/Sep/09 Lead
tobydunford 04/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Chris Weedon
colkurtz ?/Sep/09 2nd
with Matt, Robb
Hidden 23/Aug/09 2nd dog
Jesse Dufton 22/Aug/09 Lead
mol 22/Aug/09 2nd
with Jesse
Darrell Read 22/Aug/09 2nd
henbot 05/Jul/09 2nd
with Ben Bradford
uncontrollable 27/Jun/09 Lead dnf
with Alan B
breed 16/Jun/09 Lead dog

Tryed going straight up the chimney not noticing the massive flake on the right. Clean next time.

with Kyle Fayers
Hidden 14/Jun/09 2nd
MarkRyder 06/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Lee
Kyle F ?/Jun/09 2nd
Sandrine 30/May/09 2nd
with Halfwaythere
djking1983 28/May/09 2nd O/S
Bram 28/May/09 Lead
martin one 24/May/09 Lead rpt
with dave knight
jezb1 14/Apr/09 Lead

An after work climb :) Bit of an effort I thought?

Dan_Carroll 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Rebecca Holland
Beck Robinson 13/Apr/09 2nd dog
cmsg 14/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Attempted to join Paralysis (unintentionally) at the point where one regains the corner. Was rather concerned for a bit, but an attack of sanity brought me back to the line, and left me happy.

with Matthieu Gaudat
uncontrollable 28/Feb/09 Lead dog

somehow missed the line and finished over Paralysis (in a very dogged way) wondering why VS feels so hard

with Viskii
Hidden 28/Feb/09 2nd
sdht ??/2009 -
hrgcb ??/2009 -
with Joe Prinold
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden 16/Nov/08 2nd O/S
djking1983 29/Aug/08 Lead
Hidden 29/Aug/08 2nd O/S
JDSwain 15/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with sam cox
sam_cox 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
lazza ?/Jun/08 2nd
with Gareth
RMG 10/May/08 2nd
with haydng
haydng 10/May/08 Lead O/S
with Rachel
tobydunford 26/Apr/08 Lead dog
LiLaMont 26/Apr/08 2nd β
manwithacam 06/Apr/08 Lead

Had bit of a fight on this, think secret is dont stray from corner onto wall. I new-routed Transcript Indirect

with caiwei
Simon Allcock ?/Apr/08 Lead
with nick
w.pettet-smith 24/Mar/08 2nd

got my calves well pumped on the second! phew!

with david coley
Hidden 17/Feb/08 2nd
riddle 17/Feb/08 Lead
with Yasmina
ASchwirtz ??/2008 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
Kirill 31/Oct/07 2nd
cem 31/Oct/07 Lead rpt
aged_ape ?/Oct/07 -
with Alex B
riddle 21/Jul/07 Lead O/S
MontyH 04/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Pete Frost and Paul Milton
jchenoweth 03/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Fat Alan
alexrp 17/May/07 2nd


with Tony F
andyfeds 22/Apr/07 Lead rpt
with Neil T
Hidden 21/Apr/07 2nd
Hidden 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/07 Lead O/S
eldre070 03/Feb/07 2nd dog
with Paul Rigg
The Jazz Butcher ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Bob M 30/Aug/06 TR
with Pam Jolliffe
Brucifer ?/Aug/06 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/06 Lead O/S
mikelaing ??/2006 -
mikelaing ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 2nd O/S
mikelaing ??/2006 -
Neil Adams ??/2006 Lead O/S
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Hidden 10/Dec/05 Lead dog
Hidden 23/Oct/05 Lead
Bob M 23/Oct/05 2nd
Hidden 23/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/05 Lead
steve taylor 01/May/05 2nd β

Soaking wet!

Hidden 10/Apr/05 2nd O/S
Marq 20/Mar/05 2nd O/S
with Jamie (Craggy Island)
Hidden 20/Jun/04 Lead
Hidden 15/May/04 2nd
Boxy 07/Feb/04 Lead O/S
lazza ?/Jan/04 2nd
with scott
ellie macpherson 17/May/03 TR
with mike henesey
Richard Horn ??/2003 -
deandarvill 24/Apr/02 Lead dnf
with Jon Wigg, Ian Wilson
pezzerrr 11/Apr/01 Lead O/S
FrankW 03/Jun/00 2nd O/S
with Joe
Bob M 23/Jan/00 TR
with Jill Stevens
Ian Jones ??/2000 Solo O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
akamini ?/Apr/99 Lead
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
jl 02/Sep/97 Lead O/S
with Scuzz
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
nacnud 09/Nov/96 Lead
cem ?/Sep/96 2nd
tracyclimber 06/Oct/95 Lead
Hidden 15/Apr/95 TR O/S
Dringo ??/1995 -
colin milton 17/Sep/94 TR
with eric milton
jim_randell 11/Jun/94 2nd O/S
with FW
MoWalker3 19/Nov/89 -
steve taylor ?/Apr/89 Lead O/S
with mark grover
Nigel Coe 14/Jul/88 Solo
Hidden ??/1985 Lead O/S
Russell Lovett 28/Apr/84 Lead rpt

Had previously seconded this route. Partner and date not known. Early 1980,s.

with unknown
Nigel Coe 22/Jun/83 TR
with Tim Dunsby
Nigel Coe 20/Jun/80 Lead
with John Walmsley
Nigel Coe 02/Sep/79 Lead
with Frank Farrell
Chris Terrey ?/May/78 Lead
with Dave Kelsey, Gerry Dunford
Nigel Bond 27/Jul/74 Lead
with Dave Jolliffe, Pete Dainty
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 57
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 46
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set