Rockfax Description
Good, physical climbing up the steep corner and narrow chimney/crack. A forceful approach pays dividends but don't forget to place the bomber gear. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, SW Climbs - Swanage, The V.S.+ Ticklist.

Mad Mongoose 11/Dec/16 2nd

Quite the battle but was an amazing climb *fist pumps air*

JoeCoxson 11/Dec/16 Lead O/S

Still taking the onsight, depite climbing to the first overhang early this year, but retreated after Wendy was hit by a wave. Burly moved, I can see why the guidebook hints to get a move on.

Hidden 27/Oct/16 TR
Hidden 13/Aug/16 2nd dog
Hidden 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Alasdair88 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Greasy holds and pumpage. A battle.

with heallan
Mattholland96 05/Jul/16 Lead
Lizard Ollie 05/Jul/16 2nd

Had to rest on the rope in an epic battle to remove a silver nut from the sedimentary grasp of the limestone.

Hidden 03/Jul/16 2nd
Oliver Smaje 21/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Sam
Sam Mills 21/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Oliver Smaje
SenzuBean 08/May/16 Lead dog

Nails hard! Climbing up and down multiple times, managed to get gear in for the crux, and suss some of the moves out. Finally went for it, and was just about to layback off of a flake out right when it rocked a good 3cm! Thought I was about to drop a brick onto my belayer and basically fell off from the shock of it. Rested on the ground, and managed it next go. Note to self: stop attempting thuggy HVSs.

with Andrew, Peter
Curly Rich 08/May/16 2nd O/S
with gmc
mr random 30/Apr/16 Lead

Thuged up it couple of rests. It was a fight.

Rob Laird 30/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with B Sosin
ipegg 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Simon Hughes
TP 16/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Helen F
TP 09/Apr/16 Lead dog
with Frank A
Hidden 06/Mar/16 -
ChrisH_273 12/Sep/15 Lead dog
Dave Mahon 15/Aug/15 Lead

Good gear but hard going. It is all over in about 12m but every hold is hard won.

with Brian Mead
LJC 29/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Mark
Ciderslider 29/Jul/15 Lead

One small whipper

with Luca, Ben
Superpump ?/Jul/15 2nd dog
with micky, mikeski
mikeski ?/Jul/15 Lead
Jan.Hrb 13/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Ales
samohtdoowde 10/Feb/15 2nd dog
with Sam Ford
mattc 02/Jan/15 Lead dnf


ian bryant ??/2015 -
Hidden 06/Dec/14 2nd rpt
Bob M 03/Aug/14 TR

Top roped to check grade after some holds had come off. I always found this hard but now feels like HVS 5a/b.

brian watson 03/Aug/14 TR
Hidden 03/Aug/14 TR
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead dog
will_benfold 25/May/14 Lead O/S
Pintsize 25/May/14 2nd

Felt quite greasy. Didn't enjoy the bottom section!

Hidden 16/May/14 TR rpt
Hidden 30/Apr/14 Lead O/S
leohl 16/Aug/13 2nd O/S
elbeanio 03/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Monkey_Alan 23/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Julian Prieto 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S
hector 10/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Mike Weatherill ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
danJBA 31/May/13 Lead O/S

Moved right at halfway and finished on Paralysis

Kayan 31/May/13 2nd
RKirke 26/May/13 Lead RP

It was a bit greasy on the key handholds.

AlexD 21/Apr/13 Lead β
with Scott
Hidden 21/Apr/13 2nd
neilwiltshire 20/Apr/13 AltLd

Lead the first half, then strayed unintentionally onto Paralysis, E2 5C. Couldn't do that and came down. Tim top roped to my high point and finished the route.

with Tim Cooper
daviesp2 20/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 Lead rpt
ianto ??/2013 -
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Stroppy 12/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Rob Thomas
windle 12/Sep/12 Lead dog

Lots of seepage on the route, crucial holds were slightly polished and soaking wet.

with james barry
alastairbegley 28/Aug/12 Lead dnf

backed off, cracks damp & line looked unappealing once on the route so didn't seem worth it

Hidden 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/12 2nd rpt
Anthony Dixon 04/Aug/12 Lead
w-watson 17/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 16/Jun/12 Lead rpt
Sophie Nunn 13/Jun/12 2nd rpt
with Alan, Scott
Monkey_Alan 13/Jun/12 Lead β

Finally got around to leading this, with Scott's helpful comments at the crux confirming my worst fears of the "trick".

Hidden 13/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 26/May/12 TR
martin clarke 06/May/12 Lead

took over from john after going of line

with nick andrews, john frost
andrzej kierzek 01/Apr/12 Lead rpt

At the bottom of the chimney moved to the right into Paralysis (E2) and then moved back into the chimney. Off the route I guess, not really gradable, but still interesting climb, I fell off a year ago.

with Tara
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Ciderslider 12/Mar/12 Lead rpt

A bit of a struggle but clean this time - what a great climb !

LukeyG 03/Mar/12 Lead

Pretty straightforward if you bridge out the corner most the way

Hidden ?/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Ciderslider 29/Feb/12 Lead dnf

Very wet, but I made a complete dogs of it this time - fell off twice and gave up

with LukeyG
PAJames ??/2012 -
Pete Scott 12/Nov/11 2nd O/S
petecallaghan 23/Oct/11 2nd dog
with Nick Donohue
Boogs 16/Oct/11 2nd dog
Hidden 16/Oct/11 Lead
Ciderslider 26/Sep/11 Lead

Get in there, you beauty ! Finally nemesis led, all be it not an onsight - but still very happy. What a great climb (bit damp today though).

Ciderslider 23/Sep/11 TR O/S

After climbing badly all day didn't feel up to leading what I thought would be a real arm buster. Managed to climb it easily on top rope (and wish I had lead it). Next time. A really good climb (which stays in the obvious corner all the way up - slightly awkward move to left to gain upper crack, but its all there - looks like loads of gear placements as well).

with Nick
hotfeet 17/Sep/11 Lead

took a rest at crux

Hidden 17/Sep/11 2nd
oodie72 17/Sep/11 2nd O/S
jon_gill1 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

ok so i managed to end up leaving the corner and straying onto Paralysis which is the E2 5c,deciding itt felt bloody hard for Vs moved back into the corner chimney! Spoke to the legend Scott Titt who cleared things up for me explaining that "the line shown in the rockfax dorset guide is not very accurate and you should stick to the corner as the first ascentionist would have done". A pleasure meating you Scott and thanx again!

Hidden 14/Aug/11 2nd dog
martin one 31/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Gareth
jamespilgrim 27/May/11 Lead O/S
with Mark
haydng 21/May/11 Lead rpt
with RachelG
sambosanquet101 21/May/11 Lead
with Francy Carranza
tom.ireson 15/May/11 Lead O/S

Nearly lost a finger! stuck my hand in the pocket above the first bulge and then spent the next few minutes trying to get it back out! The rest of the climb felt incredibly hard after that as my right leg had got massively pumped but I think it is quite tricky anyway. Bomber gear all the way but only if you can stop to place it......

with David Proctor
dprctr 15/May/11 Lead O/S


Ceridwen 09/May/11 Lead dnf

Nails! No way VS!

RossT 09/Apr/11 2nd
with Tim Bee, Andrew Edwards
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
gingergeorge ?/Apr/11 Lead
Zoomer ?/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd
Sophie Nunn 22/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Scott
Hidden 22/Mar/11 2nd
jcook1980 ??/2011 Lead
steve newman ??/2011 -
Andy Chubb 10/Oct/10 Lead

Very hard first few moves.

with Jim Mulvaney
francesanncavanagh 08/Oct/10 2nd
with Haven Banks
Hidden 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/10 2nd
adrianjenner 30/Jun/10 Lead O/S
andycash 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with charlie o'brian
Zoomer 05/Jun/10 2nd

Steady climbing to a rats move over the slab into the corner. Be VERY careful with a direct finish over the stacked blocks.

Hidden 21/May/10 -
dale1968 21/May/10 2nd O/S

greasy hot

with Tom
The Ivanator 03/May/10 2nd

Either we both climbed this completely wrong or it is a total stitch up at the grade. Not fun.

with Stewart
brian watson 27/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with anne marie sheppard
bigbobbyking 27/Feb/10 Lead dnf

Was coming round the bottom of the roof, fliddling some gear in, a bit gripped when a massive wave washed over the belay ledge! Soaked Chris and me! Retreated down the the ledge and were just thinking of what to do when another massive wave soaked us to the skin again. We jugged up the ab rope and went off for a cup of tea!

with Chris Allan
uncontrollable 20/Feb/10 Lead RP

finally managed to get round the roof.

with Des
Indy Nile 20/Feb/10 2nd O/S
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 05/Sep/09 Lead
tobydunford 04/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Chris Weedon
colkurtz ?/Sep/09 2nd
with Matt, Robb
Hidden 23/Aug/09 2nd dog
mol 22/Aug/09 2nd
with Jesse
Jesse Dufton 22/Aug/09 Lead
Darrell Read 22/Aug/09 2nd
henbot 05/Jul/09 2nd
with Ben Bradford
uncontrollable 27/Jun/09 Lead dnf
with Alan B
breed 16/Jun/09 Lead dog

Tryed going straight up the chimney not noticing the massive flake on the right. Clean next time.

with Kyle Fayers
Hidden 14/Jun/09 2nd
MarkRyder 06/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Lee
Kyle F ?/Jun/09 2nd
Sandrine 30/May/09 2nd
with Halfwaythere
djking1983 28/May/09 2nd O/S
Bram 28/May/09 Lead
martin one 24/May/09 Lead rpt
with dave knight
jezb1 14/Apr/09 Lead

An after work climb :) Bit of an effort I thought?

Dan_Carroll 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Rebecca Holland
Beck Holland 13/Apr/09 2nd dog
cmsg 14/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Attempted to join Paralysis (unintentionally) at the point where one regains the corner. Was rather concerned for a bit, but an attack of sanity brought me back to the line, and left me happy.

with Matthieu Gaudat
uncontrollable 28/Feb/09 Lead dog

somehow missed the line and finished over Paralysis (in a very dogged way) wondering why VS feels so hard

with Viskii
Hidden 28/Feb/09 2nd
Hidden ??/2009 -
sdht ??/2009 -
hrgcb ??/2009 -
with Joe Prinold
Hidden 16/Nov/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/08 2nd O/S
djking1983 29/Aug/08 Lead
JDSwain 15/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with sam cox
sam_cox 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
haydng 10/May/08 Lead O/S
with Rachel
RMG 10/May/08 2nd
with haydng
tobydunford 26/Apr/08 Lead dog
LiLaMont 26/Apr/08 2nd β
manwithacam 06/Apr/08 Lead

Had bit of a fight on this, think secret is dont stray from corner onto wall. I new-routed Transcript Indirect

with caiwei
Simon Allcock ?/Apr/08 Lead
with nick
w.pettet-smith 24/Mar/08 2nd

got my calves well pumped on the second! phew!

with david coley
Hidden 17/Feb/08 2nd
riddle 17/Feb/08 Lead
with Yasmina
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
ASchwirtz ??/2008 Lead O/S
Kirill 31/Oct/07 2nd
cem 31/Oct/07 Lead rpt
aged_ape ?/Oct/07 -
with Alex B
riddle 21/Jul/07 Lead O/S
MontyH 04/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Pete Frost and Paul Milton
jchenoweth 03/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Fat Alan
alexrp 17/May/07 2nd


with Tony F
andyfeds 22/Apr/07 Lead rpt
with Neil T
Hidden 21/Apr/07 2nd
Hidden 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/07 Lead O/S
eldre070 03/Feb/07 2nd dog
with Paul Rigg
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Bob M 30/Aug/06 TR
with Pam Jolliffe
alan rosier ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Brucifer ?/Aug/06 2nd
remus 18/Jun/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson ??/2006 -
mikelaing ??/2006 -
mikelaing ??/2006 -
mikelaing ??/2006 -
Neil Adams ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Dec/05 Lead dog
Bob M 23/Oct/05 2nd
Hidden 23/Oct/05 Lead
Hidden 23/Jul/05 Lead O/S
timharrison ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
steve taylor 01/May/05 2nd β

Soaking wet!

Hidden 01/May/05 Lead
Hidden 10/Apr/05 2nd O/S
Marq 20/Mar/05 2nd O/S
with Jamie (Craggy Island)
Hidden 20/Jun/04 Lead
timharrison 15/May/04 2nd
with Reuben
Boxy 07/Feb/04 Lead O/S
ellie macpherson 17/May/03 TR
with mike henesey
Richard Horn ??/2003 -
pezzerrr 11/Apr/01 Lead O/S
FrankW 03/Jun/00 2nd O/S
with Joe
Bob M 23/Jan/00 TR
with Jill Stevens
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Ian Jones ??/2000 Solo O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
akamini ?/Apr/99 Lead
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
jl 02/Sep/97 Lead O/S
with Scuzz
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
nacnud 09/Nov/96 Lead
cem ?/Sep/96 2nd
tracyclimber 06/Oct/95 Lead
Hidden 15/Apr/95 TR O/S
Dringo ??/1995 -
colin milton 17/Sep/94 TR
with eric milton
jim_randell 11/Jun/94 2nd O/S
with FW
MoWalker3 19/Nov/89 -
steve taylor ?/Apr/89 Lead O/S
with mark grover
Nigel Coe 14/Jul/88 Solo
Hidden ??/1985 Lead O/S
Russell Lovett 28/Apr/84 Lead rpt

Had previously seconded this route. Partner and date not known. Early 1980,s.

with unknown
Nigel Coe 22/Jun/83 TR
with Tim Dunsby
Nigel Coe 20/Jun/80 Lead
with John Walmsley
Nigel Coe 02/Sep/79 Lead
with Frank Farrell
Chris Terrey ?/May/78 Lead
with Dave Kelsey, Gerry Dunford
Nigel Bond 27/Jul/74 Lead
with Dave Jolliffe, Pete Dainty
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 53
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 47
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set