Rockfax Description
Boldly climb the fingery lower wall to safe, but still hard, moves up the narrow groove. © Rockfax

FA. Tony Wilmott 7.65 Jul/1965

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

afterthesend 17/Nov/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/17 TR O/S
Geoffers 28/Sep/17 TR rpt
with Mark, Simon
Hidden 04/Aug/17 Lead dog
Connorolfe 31/Jul/17 2nd β
katiep 31/Jul/17 Lead O/S

2nd E2, doubt my two initial micros would have held. Hard move right at the top too moving up and around the crack. Pumped by the top

with Connor
LJC 01/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Theo
haribotheclimber 21/May/17 2nd
Oliver Smaje 17/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Beth
Roland stopps 17/Apr/17 TR
Kevin Cass 17/Apr/17 TR dog
with R. Stopps
Hidden 13/Mar/17 2nd
brian watson 13/Mar/17 Lead RP
with Pete Finklaire, Scott Titt
Hidden 11/Mar/17 Lead rpt
pheotleyr 09/Mar/17 TR O/S
Marl 26/Oct/16 2nd O/S

Mini Traction solo

Calum M 06/Sep/16 Lead O/S
spidey 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Jerome
Hidden 04/Aug/16 Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 04/Aug/16 2nd
with Ed
Hidden 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/16 Lead O/S
julesmckim 11/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Nice balanced route. There is gear there on the lower wall, just need to be careful. Lovely top groove, great positions

with Paolo Peirini
thomas108 ??/2016 -
elfka 23/Oct/15 Lead dnf

tried twice, but backed off from 5 meters, poor gear.

with Hugo Gibson
Matt.c.Warner 20/Oct/15 2nd O/S
ian d f 09/Sep/15 Lead rpt
onlyfoddington 09/Sep/15 2nd O/S

Pleased that I managed to keep going to the top.

with Ian
musgravet 04/Sep/15 Lead dog

Started up Freda for about 2m, rested half height on a cam

chris cockbain 04/Sep/15 2nd dog
Graham Westbrook 03/Sep/15 Lead O/S
richardashe 03/Sep/15 2nd O/S
ian d f 17/Jul/15 TR rpt
with shunt
BushwackerBritz 11/Jul/15 TR O/S
ian d f 24/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Liz F
Dizz 24/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Ian F
Hidden 30/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Feb/15 2nd O/S
adam 24 01/Feb/15 Lead O/S
ian bryant ??/2015 -
Hidden 05/Nov/14 TR O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/14 TR O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/14 TR O/S
nathan2day 07/Sep/14 2nd
DanC1985 07/Sep/14 Lead rpt

Fell on first attempt from 5metres, nearly decked out. Shaked out and clean on second attempt with no falls.

with Nathan
brian watson 30/Aug/14 TR
with shunt
brian watson 09/Aug/14 TR rpt
with shunt
nige pacer 02/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Mike Lea
andy_pemberton 24/Jul/14 Lead

Really hot day. Felt hard.

with Steve Gibson
RFWilkie 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Sort of, actually started up Freda but managed to go rightwards into this.

tash 01/Jul/14 2nd
with ali k
Hidden 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S
mattprince 15/Jun/14 TR

Hard moves up the route.

with David Holmes-Evans, Joe Doherty
Gareth 16/May/14 TR rpt
with on shunt
Ash Sayers 19/Apr/14 Lead dog

1 rest, pumped trying to place nut

Steve954 10/Aug/13 TR O/S

Rich went first and struggled, weighting the rope a lot. Thought I had no chance but it really flowed. Loved it.

Geoffers 26/Jul/13 TR O/S
with Tim
brices 10/Jul/13 Lead
BenNorman 10/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Luxulyan 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S

You can protect the lower part of the climb but it's a bit fiddly and slightly dubious. Top part's much better protected but sustained, got pretty pumped. Hard for E2?...

with Dan Browne
Dan Browne 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Richard Stevenson
mattc 13/May/13 2nd
Hidden ??/2013 -
ianto ??/2013 -
Hidden 09/Aug/12 TR rpt
Dax 04/Aug/12 TR O/S

Flew up this .. but then I didn't have to place gear (thank god)

Hidden 05/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/12 TR O/S
Pete Rigby 30/Jun/12 Lead dnf
with Merlin March
Joris.Roulleau 24/Mar/12 2nd O/S
manwithacam 24/Mar/12 Lead

Really nice to do this route.

with Joris
Sophie Nunn 12/Mar/12 TR rpt
mark schramm 15/Jan/12 TR
with Dave C
Sophie Nunn 19/Nov/11 TR rpt
Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead
3 Names 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 TR O/S
riddle 21/May/11 Lead O/S
with Yasmina
Hidden 21/May/11 2nd
martinazando 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
al99 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
brian watson 20/Apr/11 TR rpt
Sophie Nunn 20/Apr/11 TR rpt
with Brian
Gareth 15/Apr/11 TR rpt
with on shunt
Hidden 08/Apr/11 Lead
Sophie Nunn 04/Apr/11 TR rpt
ian1234567 ?/Apr/11 Lead

fell off a5 5m, both micro nuts ripped out decked, got up then did it clean silly slip

sarpedon 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
mikespooner 27/Mar/11 2nd
with Sarp Ackay
Sophie Nunn 22/Mar/11 TR O/S
GuyM ??/2011 -

also shunted.. on family hol - no belayer available!

brian watson 07/Nov/10 TR rpt
Hidden 19/Aug/10 2nd dog
rob askew 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Fingery lower section but nothing too bad.Bomber gear all the way up the really nice groove to an awesome finishing move

with nick brindley
Gareth 12/Aug/10 TR rpt
with on shunt
Hidden 05/Jul/10 Lead rpt
colkurtz ?/Jul/10 2nd
with Robb
zara bloomfield 06/Jun/10 2nd
with adrian paisey
AlistairB 07/Nov/09 Lead O/S

Nearly fell off onto questionable #4 brass offset! Seems a bit stiff for E2 considering that all the hard climbing (for me anyway) was before any worthwhile gear.

with Henry
tobydunford 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Sarah Wysling
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
tebs 10/May/09 2nd O/S
with Mike
Gareth 01/May/09 TR rpt
with on shunt
Ed Babs 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Matty Marvel
Dorset 12/Apr/09 TR

Fell off

with Mark James and Julian Taylor
davenev 16/Mar/09 TR dog
with solo
Gareth 17/Feb/09 TR
Hidden ??/2009 -
jake-jones 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
bigie bob 14/May/08 Lead O/S
Matt Bennett 09/Mar/08 Lead dnf

did crux, got 3/4 way up, had vvvv.poor gear, escaped into freda

jamie ward 08/Feb/08 2nd dnf
with Marcus Harvey
ASchwirtz 27/Jan/08 Lead dog

2 rests

with Claire Johnston
daveagriff ??/2008 TR
garburn 24/Nov/07 2nd dog

Bit of a struggle

feilx 24/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Nils
dannyboy83 17/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Sion
tonanf ?/May/07 Lead

used a shed load of chalk.

with arpollard
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
chrisbevins ??/2007 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden 15/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Dave Kerr 25/Jul/06 Lead
with Jill Kerr
Andy Chubb 21/Apr/06 Lead
with Robin Nicholson
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Nov/05 Lead O/S
tracyclimber ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S

My highest lead. Not much pro in the lower section. Excellent feeling when at the top!

with john burnip
lazza ?/Jan/04 TR
with scott
Ed Causton ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/03 Lead
pezzerrr 24/Feb/03 Lead O/S
JasonG ??/2003 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Ian Jones ??/2000 Solo O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
Hidden 28/Mar/99 2nd
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
Roget 27/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with jon
Budge 12/Apr/97 TR O/S
with Mike Oates
tracyclimber 20/Jun/95 Lead

First E2 lead. Found it a bit bold in lower section.

with john burnip
tracyclimber 05/Jun/95 TR

a top-rope before a lead.

with john burnip
Nigel Coe 13/Feb/93 TR
Mark Kemball 05/May/91 Lead
with Alison Dorey
Hidden ?/Aug/90 Lead O/S
kp64zl ?/May/90 2nd dog
with Dave
Derek Ryden 04/Mar/90 Lead O/S
with Howard
steve taylor ?/Jun/89 Lead O/S
with mark grover
MoWalker3 21/Apr/89 TR
Hidden 25/Jul/88 2nd O/S
Moses 16/Aug/87 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 29/Mar/87 -
with Tim Dunsby
Nigel Coe 20/Dec/86 TR
with Brian Wyvill
Nigel Coe 04/Aug/84 TR
Nigel Coe 08/Apr/84 TR
Nigel Coe 22/Jun/83 TR
Hidden 03/Dec/82 Lead
Nigel Coe 20/Nov/82 TR
with Dave Holly, Tim Dunsby
Nigel Coe 20/Jul/82 -
Nigel Coe 28/May/80 TR
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 32
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
Not Set