24m.

Rockfax Description
Adventurous climbing at the upper end of the grade. Start below and left of a jutting overhang at the fault-line. Climb past the corner of the overhang and swing right onto its front face. Ascend the buttress to the top. Take care to avoid rope drag on this pitch. © Rockfax

FA. Nigel Coe, Tim Dunsby 20/May/1984

Feedback

UserDateNotes
jtree03 2 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Ditto that! The abseil in from the stakes nearest to Black Zawn leaves suspended in mid air unless you bounce and swing in, and you're then you about 20 ft away from the start of the route, with a tricky step across a zawn to negotiate. Very very exciting initial moves swinging left below the bulge and pulling up into the corner, followed by a lovely traverse right above the void. Loads of potential for rope drag here(trust me!) and the route-finding on the upper buttress was far from obvious. Once you're on the front face of the buttress climb straight up into a shallow corner and make some steep moves up and right onto the arete. Top value HVS!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ditto that! The abseil in from the stakes nearest to Black Zawn leaves suspended in mid air unless you bounce and swing in, and you're then you about 20 ft away from the start of the route, with a tricky step across a zawn to negotiate. Very very exciting initial moves swinging left below the bulge and pulling up into the corner, followed by a lovely traverse right above the void. Loads of potential for rope drag here(trust me!) and the route-finding on the upper buttress was far from obvious. Once you're on the front face of the buttress climb straight up into a shallow corner and make some steep moves up and right onto the arete. Top value HVS!
ian bryant 4 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: nice route, though quite 'involved' getting to it and avoiding rope drag. the guidebook description is a little misleading though (unless, of course, i went the wrong way!?). the obvious way to go is to traverse right into the corner then continue the traverse right onto the wall until climbing over it onto a good rest. then go up trending right a little. good jugs on first section, higher up is probably harder.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: nice route, though quite 'involved' getting to it and avoiding rope drag. the guidebook description is a little misleading though (unless, of course, i went the wrong way!?). the obvious way to go is to traverse right into the corner then continue the traverse right onto the wall until climbing over it onto a good rest. then go up trending right a little. good jugs on first section, higher up is probably harder.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
cem 2 Aug 2nd rpt
with GrahamD
with GrahamD
Hidden 22 Apr Lead
Flavio 21 Jul, 2018 2nd "Look daddy, climbers!" "Oh yes, just like Bear Grylls!"
"Look daddy, climbers!" "Oh yes, just like Bear Grylls!"
JendeHoxar 21 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Philoosh 8 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
LucaC 22 Sep, 2017 2nd O/S
mjeffery 22 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
with LucaC
with LucaC
Hidden ??, 2017 -
mr random 30 Apr, 2016 2nd Wild outing
Wild outing
Rob Laird 30 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
ricci.andrea86 ??, 2016 -
thomas108 ??, 2016 -
onlyfoddington 7 May, 2015 2nd O/S More sustained than I expected, I think I failed to observe much of the loose rock but was pleased to get up it clean.
with ian d f
More sustained than I expected, I think I failed to observe much of the loose rock but was pleased to get up it clean.
with ian d f
ian d f 7 May, 2015 Lead O/S Quite an experience, at the grade. Found the rock questionable near the top.
Quite an experience, at the grade. Found the rock questionable near the top.
ian bryant ??, 2015 -
Dave Thompson 2 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S
with Mark Lee
with Mark Lee
Kirill 3 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Very pleased with my ropework. Good route.
with cem
Very pleased with my ropework. Good route.
with cem
cem 3 Aug, 2014 2nd Very good.
with Kirill
Very good.
with Kirill
Thinker01 12 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Great route - route finding took a while at the bottom and a bit loose at the top. The full Swanage adventure!
Great route - route finding took a while at the bottom and a bit loose at the top. The full Swanage adventure!
RFWilkie 12 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
brices 10 Mar, 2014 2nd O/S
with remus
with remus
Hidden 10 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Sep, 2013 2nd O/S
Monkey_Alan 20 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Nice route, good moves at the start and moving onto the slab.
with Matt Tyson
Nice route, good moves at the start and moving onto the slab.
with Matt Tyson
tonevert 13 Mar, 2013 2nd
with Kevin Faux
with Kevin Faux
Kevster 13 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S Smiles.
Smiles.
Hidden ??, 2013 -
ianto ??, 2013 -
3 Names 9 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with Dan Craig
with Dan Craig
Hidden 14 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S
metal arms 6 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 17 Aug, 2011 2nd
tobydunford 14 May, 2011 2nd O/S
Sophie Nunn 26 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
with Floris, heather rogers
with Floris, heather rogers
Hidden 16 Sep, 2010 2nd O/S
al99 12 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
martinazando 12 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
with al99
with al99
Ben Harper 5 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Ceridwen 5 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
with Ben, Phil
with Ben, Phil
scott titt ??, 2010 -
Dave Marshall 15 Aug, 2009 AltLd rpt
with Richard Keast
with Richard Keast
Ed Babs 18 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Matty Marvel
with Matty Marvel
richgac 13 Apr, 2009 2nd O/S
with Barry
with Barry
London Luke ?Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
brian watson ??, 2009 Lead rpt
with neil weymouth
with neil weymouth
scott titt ??, 2009 -
Ing 27 Jul, 2008 2nd
with Stevie G
with Stevie G
The Jazz Butcher ??, 2007 Lead O/S
dan gibson 29 May, 2006 2nd O/S
with eddie church
with eddie church
feilx ??, 2005 -
brian watson ??, 2005 Lead O/S
Pete Wimbush 24 May, 2003 2nd
with Tim Foers
with Tim Foers
Marti999 ??, 2000 Lead
Marti999 ??, 2000 Lead
Nigel Coe 20 May, 1984 Lead O/S FA
with Tim Dunsby
FA
with Tim Dunsby
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Votes cast 14
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