24m.
Rockfax Description
Adventurous climbing. Start below and left of an overhang at the faultline. Climb past the corner of the overhang and swing right onto its front face. Ascend the buttress to the top. Some of the rock near the top is fractured. Take care to avoid rope-drag. © Rockfax
FA. Nigel Coe, Tim Dunsby 20/May/1984.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| alex goodall | 1 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Guidebook description for the start of the route is not super clear. The ledge is broken so the approach for mellow yellow and this route really need different abseils! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Guidebook description for the start of the route is not super clear. The ledge is broken so the approach for mellow yellow and this route really need different abseils! |
||||
| jtree03 | 2 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Ditto that! The abseil in from the stakes nearest to Black Zawn leaves suspended in mid air unless you bounce and swing in, and you're then you about 20 ft away from the start of the route, with a tricky step across a zawn to negotiate. Very very exciting initial moves swinging left below the bulge and pulling up into the corner, followed by a lovely traverse right above the void. Loads of potential for rope drag here(trust me!) and the route-finding on the upper buttress was far from obvious. Once you're on the front face of the buttress climb straight up into a shallow corner and make some steep moves up and right onto the arete. Top value HVS! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Ditto that! The abseil in from the stakes nearest to Black Zawn leaves suspended in mid air unless you bounce and swing in, and you're then you about 20 ft away from the start of the route, with a tricky step across a zawn to negotiate. Very very exciting initial moves swinging left below the bulge and pulling up into the corner, followed by a lovely traverse right above the void. Loads of potential for rope drag here(trust me!) and the route-finding on the upper buttress was far from obvious. Once you're on the front face of the buttress climb straight up into a shallow corner and make some steep moves up and right onto the arete. Top value HVS! |
||||
| ian bryant | 4 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: nice route, though quite 'involved' getting to it and avoiding rope drag. the guidebook description is a little misleading though (unless, of course, i went the wrong way!?). the obvious way to go is to traverse right into the corner then continue the traverse right onto the wall until climbing over it onto a good rest. then go up trending right a little. good jugs on first section, higher up is probably harder. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: nice route, though quite 'involved' getting to it and avoiding rope drag. the guidebook description is a little misleading though (unless, of course, i went the wrong way!?). the obvious way to go is to traverse right into the corner then continue the traverse right onto the wall until climbing over it onto a good rest. then go up trending right a little. good jugs on first section, higher up is probably harder. |
||||
Logged Ascents
80 users have logged this
Guidebooks for Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Route of Interest
David's Metraverse
Grade: HVS 4a ***
(Cave Hole)