Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
Two very different pitches - the first strenuous and the second more balancy and requiring good route finding. Possibly best climbed as a single pitch.
1) 4c, 15m. Climb the right-hand side of the massive block and then move left to ascend a crack to an awkward belay.
2) 4c, 18m. Surmount a bulge and trend rightwards past a ledge and small corner to another smaller ledge. Exit to the left of a small roof at the top. © Rockfax
FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth, R.Kent 04/May/1969.
Ticklists
WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20 , Ultimate HVS ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ian bryant | 21 Nov, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: nice first pitch with quite a committing move up the corner chimney. reasonable belay can be had if you search for it. getting over the roof at the start of the second pitch is fairly easy and the second pitch is probably only 4b but there's little definite line to follow and gear can be a bit sparse unless you wander around to find it! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: nice first pitch with quite a committing move up the corner chimney. reasonable belay can be had if you search for it. getting over the roof at the start of the second pitch is fairly easy and the second pitch is probably only 4b but there's little definite line to follow and gear can be a bit sparse unless you wander around to find it! |
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| A123 | 12 Jan, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Found the groove upto the break strenuous. On reaching the break it was difficult to find any really good pro. A couple of cams - sort of on rock sort of on soil! and a sling round a crumbly boss. Second pitch is run out but straightforward climbing for 4b/4c - fortunately given the dodgy belay below. Oh I probably did it all wrong ! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Found the groove upto the break strenuous. On reaching the break it was difficult to find any really good pro. A couple of cams - sort of on rock sort of on soil! and a sling round a crumbly boss. Second pitch is run out but straightforward climbing for 4b/4c - fortunately given the dodgy belay below. Oh I probably did it all wrong ! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
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Finale Groove
Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Boulder Ruckle)