Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A much harder way up the buttress on a choice line with excellent climbing. High in the grade.
1) 5b, 18m. Start as for The Golden Fleece, but break right along a sloping ledge to the arete. Follow this to a belay in the faultline.
2) 6a, 22m. Pull over a bulge on the left and pass an overhang above - hard. Finish up the left-hand side of the arete above. © Rockfax
FA. Crispin Waddy, C.Mullen 28.2.1986. FFA. Crispin Waddy, Pete Oxley 29.9.1986.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ian bryant | 17 Sep, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: like Matt i followed this and also found it very hard, except we stayed much closer to the arete. just before the crux i got a hands off rest knee bar on the right of the arete - and then still struggled to do the crux sequence up off the jugs on the break. i also didn't think it was very well protected (and neither did the leader). given all this i don't think it's e3 and more like e4 (i've done easier e4s!). | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: like Matt i followed this and also found it very hard, except we stayed much closer to the arete. just before the crux i got a hands off rest knee bar on the right of the arete - and then still struggled to do the crux sequence up off the jugs on the break. i also didn't think it was very well protected (and neither did the leader). given all this i don't think it's e3 and more like e4 (i've done easier e4s!). |
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| matt perks | 29 Jan, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I followed the top pitch and thought it very difficult. After the overlap described as hard, we moved left, then up and back across right to finish. This was extremely sustained and more like E4 - there's gear but placing it is very strenuous. Possibly the line should go much close to the arete on the right after the overlap but this didn't look significantly easier from above. Any thoughts | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I followed the top pitch and thought it very difficult. After the overlap described as hard, we moved left, then up and back across right to finish. This was extremely sustained and more like E4 - there's gear but placing it is very strenuous. Possibly the line should go much close to the arete on the right after the overlap but this didn't look significantly easier from above. Any thoughts |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
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Facedancin'
Grade: E3 6a ***
(Guillemot Ledge)