The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A superb but serious direct line up the blank face, starting 5m right of Let the Punka Burn, with a possible 'desmond' from high up. Climb up easily and place runners on the left in a short crack. Step right and take the centre of the face to the faultline. Pull over on the right at a tiny corner then step back left to finish direct past an alcove to a finishing crack. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 14/Aug/1987.
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Grade: E6 6b ***
(Lulworth)