Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
Two contrasting pitches - a hard crack and a tough headwall. The first pitch has lost a crucial hold. Start at a short, deep groove 5m left of Finale Groove.
1) 6b?, 18m. Climb the groove to a rest on a slab. Powerful moves through a bulge lead to a section where holds have come off, which may be harder. Climb the hand-crack to a belay.
2) 6b, 20m. Step left and then up to a ledge on the right. Move directly up to the headwall and make sequency moves (two pegs) to a good hold. Easier ground leads to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley, A Blakely 11/Dec/1984.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Si Witcher | 19 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: This boils down to a hard, fingery move to get past the first peg and stand up on the headwall. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: This boils down to a hard, fingery move to get past the first peg and stand up on the headwall. |
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| matt perks | 12 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I followed Woody up this today. Good effort mate! The first pitch is outrageously good at about E4 6a with good gear. Pitch 2 pulls onto the wall left of the belay as described then trends up left to a hands-off rest on the footledge. There are no pegs on this bit but after getting established above the fault the climbing is alright. The gear at the ledge is okay. Above the ledge is a short overhanging grey wall then the headwall proper. The first peg is visible at the bottom of the headwall. The second peg is a body length higher up. Both pegs are in good condition (5/05). If the placements are good (?) then this is not too serious for E6. If I have understood the CC guide correctly it should be possible to climb this route to the footledge and then finish up Headstone at E4? overall. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I followed Woody up this today. Good effort mate! The first pitch is outrageously good at about E4 6a with good gear. Pitch 2 pulls onto the wall left of the belay as described then trends up left to a hands-off rest on the footledge. There are no pegs on this bit but after getting established above the fault the climbing is alright. The gear at the ledge is okay. Above the ledge is a short overhanging grey wall then the headwall proper. The first peg is visible at the bottom of the headwall. The second peg is a body length higher up. Both pegs are in good condition (5/05). If the placements are good (?) then this is not too serious for E6. If I have understood the CC guide correctly it should be possible to climb this route to the footledge and then finish up Headstone at E4? overall. |
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Vigilante
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Fisherman's Ledge)